P3024 code after reconditioning battery pack

Back in November/December I discharge/charge-cycled each module in my battery pack 3+ times after replacing 3 bad modules. I didn't get to reassemble everything and drive the car until the holidays. On short trips around town, everything seemed okay, but on longer trips (limited data here, but say 40-45 miles) I got the red triangle and some other lights (see photo). I read the code as P3024 which from what I find means Battery Block 14 Becomes Weak. I can clear the code and the car is happy until the next trip... Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

I'm in a CARB state, Oregon. The dealer wanted nothing to do with me short of selling me a new battery, etc.

 

The car hasn't been driven much since the battery failed. 151K when I took it in.

 

I have 2 HiTec x4 chargers, so I was cycling 8 modules at a time. I think all modules went through their last cycle within 7-10 days of each other.

The capacities of all modules were at/above 5200 mAh after the third Dis/Ch cycle. Some modules got more cycles to get their capacity to 5200. Some modules are above 6000 mAh discharge capacity. After the cycles, I tied all of the positive terminals together and all of the negative terminals together to equalize the voltage of all modules.

 

I never measured internal resistance, so that's something I could attempt to do. I'm not sure that the error is about module 14 (although, it could be). Seems like the list of codes I found went up to "block 14". I was thinking the blocks could two modules together.

I'm not familiar with VCI or Torque. Are those tools to use to measure properties of the battery pack?

 

Can I use Torque instead of miniVCI? Torque sounds pretty good, plug it in and monitor the system while I'm driving with my android device. I might go ahead and tear the interior down again and look at block 14 (2 modules furthest from the ECU/power connection to the car?). Maybe one of those cells is bad.

 

I measured the voltage for all of the modules. When I finished the reconditioning last month, the last step was to balance the voltage of the modules by tying the positives together and the negatives together. Now, a month later I've measured the voltages and there are some differences. For example, the three "new" modules I bought are at 8.09 V and the "old" modules are 7.97-8 V. One of the new modules is in position 27 (passenger side of car).

I'll order mini VCI and see if I can learn more.

 

I've tried to measure internal resistance, but I must not have a good experiment. I got a 25watt 2.2 ohm resistor to use as the load. I've got a current meter from the battery module to the resistor and a volt meter to measure voltage across the resistor during the test. I wire runs from the resistor back to the other terminal of the module. When I connect the current meter and module-to-resistor wires I see current flowing. The current is constantly dropping, but tends toward 3-3.25 A.

Internal resistance = (V no load - V load)/current
Battery block 14 (since block 14 threw the DTC)
module 28: R=(7.77V-7.46V)/3.25A= 0.095 ohm
module 27: R=(7.98V-7.62V)/3.27A= 0.110 ohm

Block 13 (next door neighbor)
module 26: R=(7.83V-7.42V)/3.19A= 0.129 ohm
module 25: R=(7.80V-7.23V)/3.05A= 0.187 ohm

I tried to wait 10 seconds to record the amperage, but I'd say plus/minus.

Based on this, block 13 looks worse than block 14. Seems like it would be better to have a constant current load, but is there a good option for this? Is this the wrong test?

Here's the type of resistor I used: