My Method: "Pulse-Cruise / Neutral-Drive-Glide / Resume

[livelychick]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(adam1991 @ Mar 7 2007, 02:10 AM) [snapback]401497[/snapback]</div>

Not a chance. I'll be the one exploring the use of the electric motor.

But I'm serious. If you want to explore your toy, fine--but don't do it in traffic at the expense of other drivers.
[/b]

Thank you for clarifying your earlier post.

Lone Ranger--thanks for the time you took to test out your new process. I appreciate the time you took in describing it to those of use who are interested!

[Mister Swigart]

I would like to say thanks to those of you who took the time to read the vainglorious ramblings of an old man. (It's either Alzheimers or Mad Cow Disease, I think). The supportive words in spite of my guffaw were kind and human nature at its best. I hate to argue, respect the opinions of others, and like even less to ever make any enemies, but as an American, I don't cotton well to being told what to do or what not to do. The proper ettiquette on a forum is to raise a question, unless, of course one is purposely trying out for the roll of "Forum Troll." But I guess that's the only role left since I so aptly filled the part for the "Village Idiot."

Come on big fella" (to his trusty steed),

The Lone Ranger
Rides Again.

[efusco]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(The Lone Ranger @ Mar 7 2007, 09:55 PM) [snapback]402055[/snapback]</div>

I would like to say thanks to those of you who took the time to read the vainglorious ramblings of an old man. (It's either Alzheimers or Mad Cow Disease, I think). The supportive words in spite of my guffaw were kind and human nature at its best. I hate to argue, respect the opinions of others, and like even less to ever make any enemies, but as an American, I don't cotton well to being told what to do or what not to do. The proper ettiquette on a forum is to raise a question, unless, of course one is purposely trying out for the roll of "Forum Troll." But I guess that's the only role left since I so aptly filled the part for the "Village Idiot."

Come on big fella" (to his trusty steed),

The Lone Ranger
Rides Again. [/b]

No worries, I kinda figured you weren't quite 'getting it' and I don't think anyone took offense. You're in a cool stage of your hybrid learning....it only gets better from here.

[Mister Swigart]

Just a little update and a question about our Cruise Control . . .

Well, since my last post, I have had an interesting week of cross-town drivings (25-45 mph) and at the end of each day I have not yet fallen below 51.0 mpg as a testiment to my little method.

I agree with several of the commentors here, that the Cruise Control "Resume" calls for a rather aggressive acceleration back up to the preset. So, is there any way to adjust Cruise Control under the hood or anywhere so that it can be tamed a bit and rise a little more calmly. I feel I lose some of the gains I could have if it were more gradual. I have a hunch it is not set for any optimum rate. Anyone know about this?

Today, my battery symbol with the blue bars and the white spaces, turned completely green. I am hoping that means that it has achieved a full charge. It lasted for about half-an-hour? Has that happened to any of you? Can anyone fill me in on that? I do get pretty good charges during my so called "glide" stage as it always adds charge to the battery (I like those green arrows). I also get quite a stack of green cars on the screen every five minutes.

Well, that's all for now. I will look forward to your responses.

The Lone Ranger
Rides Again!

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Edit: I have been doing my own homework on this Cruise Control question. Apparently this has been discussed before. Frankly, I thought someone would tell me about a set screw somewhere, but here's what I found out: The cruise control can be made less aggressive -- alegedly, as I have yet to try this -- by tapping the the cruise control in the "Set" direction a number of times, and it can be made more agressive by tapping the cruise control lever in the "Resume" direction a number of times. I will give this a checking in the morning. Any further clarification or experience with this is still welcome.
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[sub3marathonman]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hobbit @ Mar 6 2007, 05:53 PM) [snapback]401137[/snapback]</div>

It sounds like what you're getting with the CC game is the effect of
pulse-n-glide, i.e. you're running the engine fairly hard to get
up to speed and then backing off and letting it do its gliding
thing. You *will* do better than by babying the thing, whether it's
by CC or right foot or whatever.
.
_H*
[/b]

Somewhere else I believe it was hobbit who said to accelerate at no greater than the rate that gives about 25 mpg instantaneous on the graph. That is a bit aggressive, but not flooring it. The other words of wisdom I remember from hobbit were "Stay out of the batteries," which mean to glide as much as possible without getting the arrows from the battery.

[Mister Swigart]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sub3marathonman @ Mar 11 2007, 09:12 PM) [snapback]404018[/snapback]</div>

Somewhere else I believe it was hobbit who said to accelerate at no greater than the rate that gives about 25 mpg instantaneous on the graph. That is a bit aggressive, but not flooring it. The other words of wisdom I remember from hobbit were "Stay out of the batteries," which mean to glide as much as possible without getting the arrows from the battery.
[/b]

I will take a look at this on the screen. I presume they are going off some performance graph or chart for saying this?

This method is getting pretty well-rounded now, with most of the earlier criticisms finding solutions.

"Pulse-Cruise/Cancel-Glide/Resume" is nearly the perfect in-traffic method, now that I can accelerate by pumping up on the Cruise control or decelerate by pumping down on the Cruise Control lever. Resetting Cruise Control is only necessary below 24-25 mph as it can now be adjusted continuously! I am consistently getting 51 mpg runs (avg), now ant that's with cold starts, ungaraged, 40-degree temperatures, a new unbroken-in car, and a newby at the wheel. I have gotten the hang of it, without looking at the screen -- just the speedometer. Hope others will try this and report back. Until then, I'm . . .

The Lone Ranger

[ukr2]

LoneRanger,

Here is a very good site for explanation of P&G -
http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1224

[orangeblood]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ukr2 @ Mar 14 2007, 12:21 AM) [snapback]405148[/snapback]</div>

Here is a very good site for explanation of P&G -
http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1224
[/b]

Here's something I don't quite understand. That link shows a proper "pulse" to be one where the ICE sends energy not only to the wheels, but also to the electric motor (and thus into the battery). Since the latter (using gasoline to put energy into the battery for later use) seems inefficient, I'm wondering why a proper pulse wouldn't be either no arrows into the electric motor, or else having some assist from the battery (outflowing arrow).

Thanks...

[efusco]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(orangeblood @ Mar 14 2007, 04:23 PM) [snapback]405645[/snapback]</div>

Here's something I don't quite understand. That link shows a proper "pulse" to be one where the ICE sends energy not only to the wheels, but also to the electric motor (and thus into the battery). Since the latter (using gasoline to put energy into the battery for later use) seems inefficient, I'm wondering why a proper pulse wouldn't be either no arrows into the electric motor, or else having some assist from the battery (outflowing arrow).

Thanks... [/b]

You have to get energy back to the battery at some point since during your glide energy from the battery is being used (albeit in small amounts, but used none-the-less). The pulses are done with an eye toward keeping the ICE within it's absolute most efficient rpm range...that is b/w 1700-2300 rpm. At that rpm you get enough power to the wheels to accelerate while some of the excess goes to the battery for later use.

One concept that newbies seem to have a hard time wrapping their head around is that ALL...100%...of the energy in the battery comes from the ICE via burning gasoline....unless you push the car to the top of a hill then regen brake on the way down. Even energy captured through regen comes from slowing down, but to slow down you must first speed up and that burns gas...you're simply recapturing a little of that energy you used to speed up.

[orangeblood]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(efusco @ Mar 14 2007, 07:04 PM) [snapback]405667[/snapback]</div>

You have to get energy back to the battery at some point since during your glide energy from the battery is being used (albeit in small amounts, but used none-the-less). The pulses are done with an eye toward keeping the ICE within it's absolute most efficient rpm range...that is b/w 1700-2300 rpm. At that rpm you get enough power to the wheels to accelerate while some of the excess goes to the battery for later use.
[/b]

Hi Evan,

That's a hard concept for me to get my head around. I do understand that one could not P&G forever without the battery receiving enough charge to keep it at the minimum it requires. But let's say I have a nice long stretch where I can P&G and I'm trying to achieve maximum MPG for that stretch. Would it not be best to avoid having the ICE divert energy into the battery?

Otherwise, if I understand correctly, it's not so much understanding that it would be more or less efficient having a green arrow into the battery during the pulse, it's understanding that that condition generally tells me I'm in an efficient RMP range? If true, why couldn't I glean that from the instant MPG readout?

Sorry for the dense questions!