PCV jar build Plans

[1fixitman]

Has anyone installed this in thier car? I am building one this weekend. Maybe 2. This info comes from http://www.himacresearch.com I found them through this fuel economy thread somewhere. This site is worth reading through. I have ordered all the books on his site. His spelling is lacking but the info is dead on IMHO. When you reply to this thread please delete the manual description to minimize the length of this thread. I guess I will post in Modifications also as it is quite the modification.

click on books
click on hydroboost manual
page/part8

Hydro-Boost Manual

Part 8
Free PCV Jar information

This information is provided FREE from Keelynet with additional information from HIMAC provided also FREE Our hope are many will use this and reduce pollution and increase mileage and realize that if such a simple idea can do so much then perhaps others will investigate what else is out there, This is also included in the Hydro-Boost Manual.

Positive Crankcases Ventilation Jar
Taken from KeelyNet BBS (214) 324-3501
Sponsored by Vanguard Sciences
PO BOX 1031
Mesquite, TX 75150


There are ABSOLUTELY NO RESTRICTIONS on duplicating, publishing or distributing the files on KeelyNet except where noted!
March 28, 1992
PCV.ASC
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This file shared with KeelyNet courtesy of John Draper.
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PCV Jar

Here is a device that you can build that will improve your gas mileage by at least 25%, and also keep your oil, engine and spark plugs cleaner, thus allowing your engine to have a much longer life. The device can be made for a total cost of about $12.00, and about two hours of labor.

The device consists of a 1 quart jar, a small V8 fruit juice can or similar container, window screen, BBs', hoses, washers and clamps. The device is installed in between the PCV valve of your automobile engine and the vacuum source the PCV valve is normally connected to.

The device condenses the oily vapors normally sucked into the combustion chamber as part of the pollution control systems, in a container of BBs', where the vapors condense around the BBs', and drain into the bottom of the jar. If you can find them, use glass beads the same size of the BBs'. I have been unable to find any, but I know that they are made.

Blow by gases, containing gasoline vapors, are drawn back into the engine for burning. Combustion efficiency is improved as a result of the oily vapors collected in the jar, rather than contaminating the fuel/air charge in the combustion chamber.

Obtain a 1 quart jar, preferably with a wide mouth. The wide mouth is necessary for the juice can containing the BBs' to fit in the jar. Being careful not to damage the sealing gasket of the jar lid, locate and cut a 1/2 inch hole in the very center of the jar lid.

Locate and cut another 1/2 inch hole midway between the hole in the center of the lid and the outside edge of the jar lid. At this point, the jar lid has two, 1/2 inch holes cut in it. Try to keep the holes neat without any excess metal protruding above or below the lid surface.

Obtain a length of 1/2 inch, all threaded pipe, and 6, 1/2" nuts. I use the pipe and nuts, that are used in lamps and lighting fixtures, and buy it at lamp shops. Some of this pipe has a seam in it, which you don't want. This device must be air tight, as engine vacuum is connected. Cut 1, 2-1/2 inch length and 1, 1-1/2 length.

Cut the end with the pouring hole, out of the small V8 juice can. Wash out and dry the can. Cut a 1/2 inch hole in the center of the juice can. Using 1/2 inch nuts, and fender washers and silicone gasket sealer (you'll have to enlarge the holes in the washers to fit the 1/2 inch pipe), install the 2-1/2 inch length of pipe in the V8 juice can.

Leave about two threads of the pipe, showing down inside the can. Use the fender washers on both side of the juice can to provide support. This can will be eventually filled with BBs', and the washers are necessary because of the weight.

Take the 1-1/2 inch length of threaded pipe, 2 nuts and some silicone gasket sealer, and install in the hole of the jar lid, NOT the hole in the very center. Leave 2 or 3 threads of the pipe showing on the underside of the jar lid.

Back to the juice can. Cut a piece of aluminum window screen to neatly fit the inside of the juice can, and push it down into the juice can, leaving no gaps for the BBs' to roll into the threaded pipe. Fill the can completely, with copper plated BBs'.

Take another piece of aluminum window screen, and pull it over the end of the juice can, leaving about a 1/2 inch skirt of screen. Using a large worm gear type hose clamp, gently tighten the clamp, snugging the screen to the outside surface of the juice can. You have to be careful here. You want to tighten the clamp just enough where the juice can STARTS to deform.

Install this can full of BBs' in the center hole of the jar lid, using washers and nuts. Leave about 1/2 inch of space between the top of the juice can and the other pipe installed in the jar lid, to allow the blow-by gasses to exit the jar.

Install 1/2 inch elbow on both pipes protruding from the top of the jar lid. Install a 1-1/2 inch piece of pipe into each elbow. Obtain 1/2 automobile heater hose, and connect the jar to the engine as follows: From the center pipe of the jar lid, connect to the PCV valve. If the hose is too large, use a worm gear clamp to secure the hose.

From the other pipe in the jar lid, connect a 1/2 inch section of heater hose to the vacuum source of the engine.

MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR IS ABSOLUTELY AIR TIGHT ! ! If not, you will know what is meant by a vacuum leak.

Now for the hardest part: You want to locate a spot in the engine compartment to mount a 1 pound coffee can, in which to hold the jar. Try to locate a place where the hoses can be kept as short as possible. Cut several holes in the bottom of the coffee can to let any water drain out that may get in the can after a hard rain or that you have driven through. Cut a couple of pieces of the hose to wedge between the coffee can and the jar, to keep it snug and not bouncing around.

To make this assembly blend into the engine compartment, paint the jar lid, juice can and the coffee can, flat black. Consider using hoses the same color as the other engine compartment hoses. Depending on how far you drive, the jar will probably require emptying about once a month. Vehicles which are driven short distances and the engine never really gets up to maximum temperature, will require that the jar be emptied about once a week.

The jar will contain mostly water, as a result of condensation that takes place in the oil pan. The liquid in the jar contains unburned hydrocarbons, water and sludge. The liquid is also mildly acidic, as a result of the water vapor and the unburned hydrocarbons, combining. Some people have noticed a slight burning sensation, if the liquid gets on the skin.

About every 30,000 miles or so, wash out the BBs' with varsol or other solvent to keep the passage ways open. Your engine will stay cleaner and last much longer. Some people have claimed they have gone 500,000 miles without a rebuild. Three hundred thousand mile claims are common. The most mileage increase heard, has been 40%. Twenty five percent is much more common.

You will not believe the sludge and "gunk" that builds up in the jar. I broke an oil pump shaft in an engine with 185,000 miles on it, and when the oil pan was pulled, there wasn't any sludge or buildup. I installed the jar when the engine had about 72,000 miles on it. Additionally, the emission test readings are much lower.

This is one project where you'll get a return on your money and efforts, very quickly.

[pgc100]

Very interesting. I think I'll try it in my truck.

will you post pictures?

[hobbit]

Maybe less throttle-body gunk, sure, but 25% FE improvement?? NFW.
.
_H*

[dogfriend]

I found this statement in Part 1 of the Hydroboost manual

It is the responsibility of the reader or the mechanic to do a lawful responsible installation and we recommend before and after pollution testing and mileage sampling. [/b]

In the U.S., Federal Law(s) prohibit modifying the Emission Control system. The PCV is an Emission Control device, so I don't believe that PCV jar modification is legal.

I am very skeptical that you will see any positive benefit if you install this device.

If you do, keep the following in mind:

1. Make sure that you don't have any way a BB can get sucked into the intake manifold. It would only take one to ruin your engine.

2. Make sure you don't have any leaks. It will throw off your Air/Fuel ratio and probably make your mileage much worse and possibly increase emissions.

3. If you use synthetic oil, you won't get any significant sludge or varnish in your engine, and you won't have to add this device.

Briefly reading through the Hydroboost manual, I saw several red flags that cause me to be skeptical of any claims that the author is making. I saw several statements that were half truths and assertions that did not have any sources listed to back them up.

[MegansPrius]

This sounds like a total scam to me. Take the following text from their website, which makes the point that we're depleting the oxygen in our atmosphere! Oh my goodness! No way would I ever attach something designed by this loon to my car.

from himacresearch.com
Some internal combustion engines can use hundreds of times more oxygen than a person breathes. Furthermore, the person only uses a portion of the oxygen and expels most back into the air. Everyone talks about high levels of carbon dioxides, carbon monoxides, nitrogen oxides and ozone. These are all compounds of OXYGEN. When is the last time anyone said anything about low oxygen levels in our air? If all these pollution levels are up, and all are oxides, the oxygen has to be down, right? OXYGEN is what we can not live 8 minutes without, and lower levels affect our health and energy. This "life giving gas" will be too low for survival, far before the planet's oil supply runs out. All these problems could have been prevented if we only had the technology available from it's beginnings in the 1920's.

In the early 1900's it was extremely rare for someone to die of a heart attack; apparently there were less than a handful a year, even though almost all food was preserved using salt.They had no refrigeration. Nowadays, what does the doctor tell a person not to consume if they have a heart condition? SALT! So why were people not dying by the thousands like now? They had no oxygen in bottles, no deflibulators, resuscitators, IV Drip or all the latest heart drugs.They didn't even have aspirins in the early 1900's. But there was a higher percentage of oxygen in the atmosphere! It would not be an exaggeration to say that the suppression of one technology, has had the most dramatic impact on the world compared to anything before. In the long term, probably more people die or suffer poorer lives because of this suppression than any other short-term catastrophe or War

[dogfriend]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MegansPrius @ Sep 18 2007, 10:53 AM) [snapback]514382[/snapback]</div>

This sounds like a total scam to me. Take the following text from their website, which makes the point that we're depleting the oxygen in our atmosphere! Oh my goodness! No way would I ever attach something designed by this loon to my car.


[/b]

I'm thinking that you might disagree with his theories on cancer, too.

[ACORNBLUES]

Actually its the concentration of CO2 thats more important. Thats why they have CO2 scrubbers in subs and space crafts. Remember Apollo 13?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MegansPrius @ Sep 18 2007, 12:53 PM) [snapback]514382[/snapback]</div>

This sounds like a total scam to me. Take the following text from their website, which makes the point that we're depleting the oxygen in our atmosphere! Oh my goodness! No way would I ever attach something designed by this loon to my car.

...
[/b]

[MegansPrius]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dogfriend @ Sep 18 2007, 01:10 PM) [snapback]514391[/snapback]</div>

I'm thinking that you might disagree with his theories on cancer, too.
[/b]

Yeah, his musings that cancer rates have gone up due to decreased oxygen is particularly irksome to me. Cause, you know, the oxygen level in the atmosphere is the only factor that has changed in how humans live since 1900. Thank goodness we haven't changed our methods of disease diagnosis, or been affected by other chemicals in our daily environment since then. :P Now if you'll excuse me, I'm off to the Iceman (no, not from Top Gun) to pick up a block for my Icebox (and no, that's not a new console from Microsoft), as I assume refrigeration hasn't changed since 1900 either.

[donee]

Hi All,

I have not put one of these on my Prius. But, I did put one of my own design on my Brother's first Scirocco. It was blowing oil so badly out the PCV port the plugs were fouling after a few weeks. I came up with something similar to this Condensator thing for it, and it saved the plugs fouling dramatically. My version was had a little container made from an old radio coil (tin plated brass) shield/cover (about 2 inch in dia, and 3 inches long), with some hi-temp soldered on tubing stubs. The coil cover had a screw-on base. In the cover I stuck some thick metal wool, kinda like a brass scouring pad. So, one rubber piece of tubing went from the PCV to the can. Another from the other top fitting to the vacumm PCV connection on the throttle body (i think, this was 20 years ago!).

So the PCV fumes flowed into the heavy metal wool, and condesnsed out the oil. Which would fill up the can. My brother would drain the can once a month. Kept the car on the road for another 3 or 4 years I think it was, until the drivers floor rusted away. He forgot to roll up the window once, and never dried out the underside of the carpet, which was waterproof, and did not let the water evaporate. A year later he lost all braking!. Yea, they ran the brake lines on the inside of the car underneath the carpet! Which rusted through.

I still have some of those Radio Coil Shields.

[Raider]

Here's another alternative that uses a separator typically found installed on an air compressor to remove moisture in the air line from damaging pneumatic tools.

http://www.steeda.com/products/steeda_oil_separator.php