Audio system upgrade

[priusFTW]

Hello all!

I have decided after much research here and after reading some botched installs from contracted shops, to perform my own audio system upgrade. Afterall, I know my Prius now better than or just as well as any person I could possibly hire to do this job. Besides, I don't think that anyone else could do as diligent of a job as I am going to do! ;-)

My package is #2 without JBL system. Currently, I am going to install the following, afterwhich I will determine wheter any other componets will be necessary for my tastes, based on the outcome and performance:

Front Speakers: "Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6-1/2" component speaker system For 6-1/2" and 6-3/4" openings"
$158.99

Rear Speakers: "Infinity Kappa 62.7i 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers For 6-1/2" and 6-3/4" openings"
$79.00

Dynamat Xtreme 10455 Xtreme Bulk 36 sheets for all four door panels.


If after this install is complete and I am still not satisfied then I will add in the following order:

Kenwood KSC-SW1 Powered Enclosed Subwoofer

Alpine MRP-F240 Amplifier


Anyway, before I even begin installation, I have read numerous threads about front and real door panel disassembly and speaker install, but I still have a few questions:

1) Can anyone shed some light on how difficult it was to pop the tweeter assembly pillar off? I don't want to break anything.

2) In the front I am using component speakers, can someone shed some light on how these would get wired? Do I basically keep the same connection from the OEM tweeters to the front door panel speaker and just replace the componets or will it be different? Will I require a different wiring pattern? Please understand I am new to all of this.

3) If I later decide to install the subwoofer only, and further decide to just tap off the rear speakers to make the install easier, how/where would i run the wires? Does it have to go to both rear sides? I would install the sub in the hidden compartment in the rear.

Thanks for all your suggestions in advance! I am excited about doing this myself, being a novice to all of this really.

[Bill Merchant]

Hi priusFTW. I have not upgraded my sound system, so you can start ignoring now, but I have a couple of comments.

Unless you really like spending too much, consider RAAMmat for sound deadening.

The front tweeters just pop right off, but tend to leave their lower clip in the door. Not difficult to remove. You need to remove the tweeters so you can remove the lower door panel. All OEM components have sockets and plugs, so disconnecting is easy.

Your new tweeters need a crossover from the full-range lower speakers. Easy enough to wire behind the door panel.

I don't know where to tap for a sub, but you'll need both channels for input.

[priusFTW]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Bill Merchant @ Apr 21 2007, 02:13 AM) [snapback]427222[/snapback]</div>

Hi priusFTW. I have not upgraded my sound system, so you can start ignoring now, but I have a couple of comments.

Unless you really like spending too much, consider RAAMmat for sound deadening.

The front tweeters just pop right off, but tend to leave their lower clip in the door. Not difficult to remove. You need to remove the tweeters so you can remove the lower door panel. All OEM components have sockets and plugs, so disconnecting is easy.

Your new tweeters need a crossover from the full-range lower speakers. Easy enough to wire behind the door panel.

I don't know where to tap for a sub, but you'll need both channels for input.
[/b]

Thanks for your response Bill!

[MacDude]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Bill Merchant @ Apr 20 2007, 11:13 PM) [snapback]427222[/snapback]</div>

I don't know where to tap for a sub, but you'll need both channels for input.[/b]

I thought that you could just tap into the right rear (or so I've read in other threads I'm too lazy to look up). But it does make sense that you would want input from both channels.

RAAMat looks good. How long does it take to do the doors? Seems like it would be a solid weekend...

[priusFTW]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MacDude @ Apr 21 2007, 01:22 PM) [snapback]427337[/snapback]</div>

I thought that you could just tap into the right rear (or so I've read in other threads I'm too lazy to look up). But it does make sense that you would want input from both channels.

RAAMat looks good. How long does it take to do the doors? Seems like it would be a solid weekend...
[/b]

Is it ok to start with the back doors first? Should I roll windows down or keep them up when doing this?

[bobc]

I was a novice (and still am) when I put my upgrade in. Just pick a day when you have time and not rushed. Just go slow and you'll be fine. The good news is that you can door one door at a time before calling it a day....

The tweeters and the rest of the door trim pops right off. Yu'll be pulling hard enough that you think you'l be breaking something. As Bill mentioned, most everything is held in place by these white plugs that attach the pieces to the metal door panel. They ar the equivalent of crabs in the sea world: It takes some doing to get them to release. Once you pop the tweeter off, you'll see. Some of them will not come off with the tweeter and other trim pieces. No big deal, you'll be able to pop them off with a screwdriver.

To do the job right and not break anything, dig up the pages out of the toyota repair manual to see what each piece looks like and what the clips holding them on look like you you'll know where to pull/pry. This will save breaking stuff and unsightly pry marks. Most people go to the techinfo.toyota.com page and for $10, you haved 24 hours of access in which you can download all the pages on door panel removal and wiring diagrams. I think I saw once page of this posted on the LED signal mirror thread under mods.... It's been a couple of years since I did this, but I do recall it was all pretty easy going. Do tape up your screwdriver before prying. This really helps in avoiding pry marks on the plastic. I seem to recall that the place I was most concerned was right behind the door release handle. There is a screw behind there so you have to pop that little plastic piece off. I was concerned with prying and gouging the plastic. It comes off like a breeze if you have the picture of what it looks like so you know where to go at it. Just take your time. Oh yeah, keep the windows up.

As for OEM wiring, I replaced mine but in talking to electronically knowledgeable friends and listening to them laugh at me, if I was to do it again, I'd use the OEM wires. The draw is not that great with such a short run from the head unit to the speakers that the OEM wires are just fine. They laughed at me for getting sucked into the car stereo hype put out there by places that want to sell you everything.. If you do want to replace your wires most people post that the toughest part is getting the wires through the rubber boot that connects the door to the car body. There's a very easy way to do this: Stop by Home Depot, or the like, and pick up an 18"-24" zip tie. Thread this through (It does so very, very easily) and tape the wire(s) to this end, spray a little silicon lubricant on the wires to cut down on friction and wire damage before pulling on the other end of the zip tie... This will take you 5 minutes max. with this technique...

It will take a little cutting and splicing since the OEM speakers are connected to the wires via harnesses and the OEM speakers are wired in series, meaning one wire runs up to the tweeter first and then on down to the larger speaker below.

It sounds like your system will include tweeters. As Bill mentioned, you'll need crossovers. There is tons of room inside the door in the door well, for these. Use double sided mounting tape to hold these in place. The hole that allows access between the interior panel and the outside shell is large so you'll have plenty of room to work in. When wiring, keep in mind that you have to leave room for the window to come all the way down without contacting and putting pressure on the wires.

You can start with the back doors. The front doors are very similar. And, if you start with the rear doors and make a mark, you won't see it unlike if you had started with the front doors.

Lastly, you'll probably have to modify the inside of the tweeter cover to accept your new tweeter. No big deal. It's soft plastic and cuts easily with an X-acto knife. Just think it through ahead of time of where you need to cut and how much. You can also use something like white silicon to hold it in place, if need be.

It's a fun project and I think you'll enjoy the satisfaction of having done this yourself. I certainly did!

Cheers,

[priusFTW]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bobc @ Apr 22 2007, 11:37 AM) [snapback]427768[/snapback]</div>

I was a novice (and still am) when I put my upgrade in. Just pick a day when you have time and not rushed. Just go slow and you'll be fine. The good news is that you can door one door at a time before calling it a day....

The tweeters and the rest of the door trim pops right off. Yu'll be pulling hard enough that you think you'l be breaking something. As Bill mentioned, most everything is held in place by these white plugs that attach the pieces to the metal door panel. They ar the equivalent of crabs in the sea world: It takes some doing to get them to release. Once you pop the tweeter off, you'll see. Some of them will not come off with the tweeter and other trim pieces. No big deal, you'll be able to pop them off with a screwdriver.

To do the job right and not break anything, dig up the pages out of the toyota repair manual to see what each piece looks like and what the clips holding them on look like you you'll know where to pull/pry. This will save breaking stuff and unsightly pry marks. Most people go to the techinfo.toyota.com page and for $10, you haved 24 hours of access in which you can download all the pages on door panel removal and wiring diagrams. I think I saw once page of this posted on the LED signal mirror thread under mods.... It's been a couple of years since I did this, but I do recall it was all pretty easy going. Do tape up your screwdriver before prying. This really helps in avoiding pry marks on the plastic. I seem to recall that the place I was most concerned was right behind the door release handle. There is a screw behind there so you have to pop that little plastic piece off. I was concerned with prying and gouging the plastic. It comes off like a breeze if you have the picture of what it looks like so you know where to go at it. Just take your time. Oh yeah, keep the windows up.

As for OEM wiring, I replaced mine but in talking to electronically knowledgeable friends and listening to them laugh at me, if I was to do it again, I'd use the OEM wires. The draw is not that great with such a short run from the head unit to the speakers that the OEM wires are just fine. They laughed at me for getting sucked into the car stereo hype put out there by places that want to sell you everything.. If you do want to replace your wires most people post that the toughest part is getting the wires through the rubber boot that connects the door to the car body. There's a very easy way to do this: Stop by Home Depot, or the like, and pick up an 18"-24" zip tie. Thread this through (It does so very, very easily) and tape the wire(s) to this end, spray a little silicon lubricant on the wires to cut down on friction and wire damage before pulling on the other end of the zip tie... This will take you 5 minutes max. with this technique...

It will take a little cutting and splicing since the OEM speakers are connected to the wires via harnesses and the OEM speakers are wired in series, meaning one wire runs up to the tweeter first and then on down to the larger speaker below.

It sounds like your system will include tweeters. As Bill mentioned, you'll need crossovers. There is tons of room inside the door in the door well, for these. Use double sided mounting tape to hold these in place. The hole that allows access between the interior panel and the outside shell is large so you'll have plenty of room to work in. When wiring, keep in mind that you have to leave room for the window to come all the way down without contacting and putting pressure on the wires.

You can start with the back doors. The front doors are very similar. And, if you start with the rear doors and make a mark, you won't see it unlike if you had started with the front doors.

Lastly, you'll probably have to modify the inside of the tweeter cover to accept your new tweeter. No big deal. It's soft plastic and cuts easily with an X-acto knife. Just think it through ahead of time of where you need to cut and how much. You can also use something like white silicon to hold it in place, if need be.

It's a fun project and I think you'll enjoy the satisfaction of having done this yourself. I certainly did!

Cheers,
[/b]

Gee, thank you so much Bob for that information. I did pick up a panel puller, so I hope that will make it somewhat easier.

Could you go over with me again where u placed the crossovers? I don't want it to interfere with the window. Thanks!

[bobc]

No problem!

The glass doesn't go all the way down to the bottom of the door so you can mount the cross overs inside the door panel, right on the bottom, between the inside sheet metal and the outside panel.

Here's photo I took right after I took all the door trim off. Which reminds me a few other things, but first, you'll take that black panel off that is in the lower left corner of the photo and you can place the crossover right down in there.

The wires hanging about are the from the control switches on the driver's arm rest. Don't worry if it looks like there is a lot going on here in this photo...

I can't remember why I circled these, but the snaps that hold the interior trim the the sheet metal are shown in this photo. It's common for some of these to stay stuck to the sheet metal. Yoiu can easily pry them off with a screwdriver after the fact.

As for the other few other things. The OEM speakers don't pop right off. You'll have to drill out the rivets. The plastic sheet covering the door is held in place with a line of black sticky stuff. It's reusable although it's not a sticky the second time around. It's nice if you have something similar handy to add to places where the black stuff doesn't stick anymore.

Lastly, you'll be able to hook the power window button back up while the door is apart. You'll want to do this to make sure that the window, when it is in the all the way down position, doesn't bump into your new speakers. Your new speakers should come with metal rings of varying sizes. These are needed when the diameter of the hole in the door is larger than the speaker. They essentially increase the diameter of the speakers so that they can fit in larger holes so that the metal ring can overlap the sheet metal and you can drive screws through them to hold the speakers in place. I'm pulling this one out of the top of my head, but I think the holes in the sheet metal are 5-1/2" in diameter... I haven't heard otherwise via any posts, but if the largest metal ring that you have doesn't cover 5-1/2" (or whatever the size of that hole really is), swing into an audio installation place as they should have beaucoup amounts of these rings to choose from. Nothing to worry about until you get the door apart and see about fitting the speaker in... It's just a pre-emptive thought. The hole diameter is the same in all 4 doors...

Hope you have a good weather day for the project....

Cheers,

[GeoGeek]

DocVijay did a nice documentation of the front speaker upgrade he did
and posted it on his website at: http://mysite.verizon.net/ressmxii/id13.html
Nice pictures and procedure for making your own baffle rings out of MDF.
Have a look.
Cross-overs can go inside doors easily.....I suggest placing them inside
zip-loc (or other) plastic bags, cinch bag around wires coming off cross-over
and wrap with electrical tape, then use nylon zip ties to attach the bagged crossover
to some metal or wires inside the door panel out of the way of moving parts (window).
This can save you from the liklihood of moisture damaging the components in
your crossover....as moisture does get into the insides of car doors.

Good Luck!