jl audio FlatWedge™ Low-Profile Ported System

[F8L]

Originally Posted by nspeer

Thanks, F8L,
tonight I tried putting the slider more and more towards the Front speakers when I noticed that the bass was still too loud for my tastes. I ended up with the slider "pinned" all the way to the front speakers and it was still too much. So, genius that I am, I then moved the slider more towards the REAR speakers and...you guessed it, the bass diminished (as did the front speakers). So, I moved the slider towards the front speaker setting until the bass was what I desired. So, it would seem that the professional installers did something wrong. When the slider is all the way on the rear speakers, I cannot hear anything except the rear mounted door speakers with NO sub and NO fronts. It seems as if the sub is on the same amp channels as the fronts. I have no idea what to do as I've not fiddled with the system...the "pros" did it all for me. I don't want to take it back to them as it's REALLY inconvenient and my trust level just went way down. Is it a simple fix?
thanks,
Neil

Sounds to me like they used a 2-channel high to low converter instead of a 4-ch. Can you look up your receipt and tell me which line converter you purchased?

For a quick fix simply go to the amplifier and turn down the "gain" control for the sub. That will help for now but using the fader is really nice when adjusting the bass for different kinds of music.

[nspeer]

Originally Posted by F8L

Sounds to me like they used a 2-channel high to low converter instead of a 4-ch. Can you look up your receipt and tell me which line converter you purchased?

For a quick fix simply go to the amplifier and turn down the "gain" control for the sub. That will help for now but using the fader is really nice when adjusting the bass for different kinds of music.

I'm sorry, I don't know what you are talking about. I brought them an Alpine 4 ch. amp (I forget which model) and some JL component front speakers. Months ago they installed that with the knowledge that I would later add a sub and we discussed using 1 & 2 for the fronts and 3 & 4 for the sub. They originally wired it up for the sub which I just added a few days ago. So, would they have wired up a high to low converter when they first did the job? They did not mention that I need one and I don't recall being charged for one. In fact, once when I asked the tech if I should put some upgraded speakers in the rear doors, he replied that if I did that I would loose the ability to fade between front and rear (ie presumably fade between 1 & 2 and 3 & 4). Make any sense to you?

[sacrefrancais]

Originally Posted by F8L

Assuming you have the front RCAs going to channels 1-2 on the amplifier (powering your mids/highs) and the rear RCAs going to channels 3-4 (powering the sub) why not just use the fader on the deck and fade it more to the front, effective reducing signal voltage going to the rear channels and lowering volume on the sub. That way you don't screw up your imaging or sound quality like you do when you balance to the left or right.

I'm pretty sure that's my setup too. I have a question along these lines. I would like some additional bass control as well. But when the installer put in my amp, i think he only used 1 converter rather than 2 such that fading to rear just turns the volume down/off on everything.

The way I see it, I have 3 options:

1) use the tone control on the head unit to lower the bass. I read this might not be such a big deal as it should not have too much effect on the mids. I haven't tested this much but haven't heard too much degradation the little I have tried it. Any thoughts on this?

2) install a second converter so that I can fade to front to lower subwoofer power and bass levels.

3) buy the $35 Rockford Fosgate subwoofer remote and install it somewhere inconspicuous. I imagine this might be the most effective solution.

[F8L]

Originally Posted by nspeer

I'm sorry, I don't know what you are talking about. I brought them an Alpine 4 ch. amp (I forget which model) and some JL component front speakers. Months ago they installed that with the knowledge that I would later add a sub and we discussed using 1 & 2 for the fronts and 3 & 4 for the sub. They originally wired it up for the sub which I just added a few days ago. So, would they have wired up a high to low converter when they first did the job? They did not mention that I need one and I don't recall being charged for one. In fact, once when I asked the tech if I should put some upgraded speakers in the rear doors, he replied that if I did that I would loose the ability to fade between front and rear (ie presumably fade between 1 & 2 and 3 & 4). Make any sense to you?

I'm guessing there is a bit of miscommunication between you and the installer/salesperson. It happens a lot so please don't take this to mean you are wrong somehow.

If you are using a stock deck then you must use some sort of line converter from high level outputs (factory stereo speaker wires) to low level outputs (RCA cables) which can then go into your amplifier. Some amplifiers have this feature built in but many do not use them because of the lack of adjustability. The installer likely used a 2 channel line converter from your stock stereo and this only supplied 1-set of RCAs to your amp which is why when you fade to the rear you lose all sound except your rear speakers which are tied into the stock stereo power.

To correct this situation and get some adjustability you could use a 4 channel line converter which taps into your stock stereos front AND rear speaker wires. This will allow you to have 4 RCA wires (front and rear) to plug into your amp and now you can use the fader to control bass. Note that this will also diminish the volume of the rear speakers as well but that is usually a good thing unless you are going for max volume.

I'd be more than happy to talk with your installer to help you figure out your situation if you like. I've been working in high end car audio since 1994. Post up the make and model of your amplfier and I'll see if you have the option for a remote "bass knob" as this could solve the whole problem for you and cost less than $45.

[F8L]

Originally Posted by sacrefrancais

I'm pretty sure that's my setup too. I have a question along these lines. I would like some additional bass control as well. But when the installer put in my amp, i think he only used 1 converter rather than 2 such that fading to rear just turns the volume down/off on everything.

The way I see it, I have 3 options:

1) use the tone control on the head unit to lower the bass. I read this might not be such a big deal as it should not have too much effect on the mids. I haven't tested this much but haven't heard too much degradation the little I have tried it. Any thoughts on this?

2) install a second converter so that I can fade to front to lower subwoofer power and bass levels.

3) buy the $35 Rockford Fosgate subwoofer remote and install it somewhere inconspicuous. I imagine this might be the most effective solution.

It seems to be a common theme, installers using a 2channel line converter instead of a a 4channel unit. We always use a 4channel converter when installing anything other than a 2 channel amp. :/

As for your options here is how I look at it.

1) I don't like to use the tone controls to adjust volume for the subwoofers as this does affect your midrange response and may reduce your level of midbass which is important to me. The only time I do this is if there is no crossover on the mids/highs that will filter out low freq. bass which could damage the speaker at high volumes.

2) One line converter can do the job for you but it needs to be a 4channel unit, not a 2 channel. The problem here is you will rack up more installation cost unless you can work a deal with them by stating you thought you were getting full 4 channel control to begin with. That usually doesn't go over well though. lol

3) This is likely the cheapest and easiest option for you as installation will be a breeze and the unit itself is a little lower than the cost of a good 4 channel line converter. The only drawback is having to mount the knob somewhere. I'm lazy and mine is still sitting in my cupholder. Uhhhggg

[sacrefrancais]

Originally Posted by F8L

It seems to be a common theme, installers using a 2channel line converter instead of a a 4channel unit. We always use a 4channel converter when installing anything other than a 2 channel amp. :/

As for your options here is how I look at it.

1) I don't like to use the tone controls to adjust volume for the subwoofers as this does affect your midrange response and may reduce your level of midbass which is important to me. The only time I do this is if there is no crossover on the mids/highs that will filter out low freq. bass which could damage the speaker at high volumes.

2) One line converter can do the job for you but it needs to be a 4channel unit, not a 2 channel. The problem here is you will rack up more installation cost unless you can work a deal with them by stating you thought you were getting full 4 channel control to begin with. That usually doesn't go over well though. lol

3) This is likely the cheapest and easiest option for you as installation will be a breeze and the unit itself is a little lower than the cost of a good 4 channel line converter. The only drawback is having to mount the knob somewhere. I'm lazy and mine is still sitting in my cupholder. Uhhhggg

Classic. That was my hunch, but thank you for your feedback and for confirming this.

[F8L]

Originally Posted by sacrefrancais

Classic. That was my hunch, but thank you for your feedback and for confirming this.

No problem.

[nspeer]

Originally Posted by F8L

Post up the make and model of your amplfier and I'll see if you have the option for a remote "bass knob" as this could solve the whole problem for you and cost less than $45.

OK, my amp is :
Alpine V-Power MRP-F250 Car Amp

I'm guessing your diagnosis is correct. Also, you're right about the cost and trouble of bringing it back to the installers, da bastids. So, I'm going for your remote "bass knob" fix. I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction now that you know what amp I'm using.

Thanks for all your help.
neil

[sacrefrancais]

Originally Posted by F8L

No problem.

Actually, I misspoke. The remote is for the AMP, not the sub. I'd post the link but I'm under 5 posts so don't have that privilege yet. It's the Rockford Fosgate PEQ Remote Punch EQ though.

Says it acts as a treble or bass BOOST. I'd think I could lower the gain on the sub channels 3 and 4 to bring bass levels to the low end and then use the "boost" to increase the bass as needed. Is this still sounding on track?

[F8L]

Originally Posted by nspeer

OK, my amp is :
Alpine V-Power MRP-F250 Car Amp

I'm guessing your diagnosis is correct. Also, you're right about the cost and trouble of bringing it back to the installers, da bastids. So, I'm going for your remote "bass knob" fix. I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction now that you know what amp I'm using.

Thanks for all your help.
neil

Neil, I looked up your amplifier and it doesn't appear to have an option for a remote bass control. You may have to look into another option or go with a 4 channel line converter.