the end of the "don't lose your keys or else" myth

[tmorrowus]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rudiger @ Jul 22 2006, 02:57 PM) [snapback]290599[/snapback]</div>

In fact, it might even be worthwhile to buy a 'blank' fob now as insurance in the event one (or both) original fobs are lost without spending the money to have the blank one programmed immediately.
[/b]

Two problems with this idea:

1. It's much cheaper to program a new fob when you have a working fob.
2. Programming the fob doesn't change the fob itself at all, it just stores the fob code in the car so it recognizes the fob. So the fob is still useful for other people even after it has been programmed into your car.

[DanMan32]

I will confirm with Galaxee that I too have seen a blurb in the repair manual suggesting that the ECUs could be reset using TIS. I believe I even mentioned that fact in a post or two.

The repair manual/TBS also suggest that some reprogramming functions might be doable by a dance, though for SKS, that might still require the scan tool.
I say 'suggest' because the instructions are not as clear as they should be.

[withersea]

Thanks galaxee !

You are a wealth of information. You should ask Danny for a raise.

[galaxee]

merged into post #1

[hobbit]

Oooh, and this is probably our first look at someone actually using
Techstream! It's unfortunate that it's evidently all IE-based...
.
Great stuff, I wish they'd apprise all the dealerships about this..
.
_H*

[alinica2001]

Originally Posted by galaxee

okay so... it appears that dealers still don't know what the hell they're doing and rather than doing the whole "call tech support" thing it is on OUR shoulders to educate them...

sigh... sickening.

anyway, DH just took a few pics of the procedure as done on the new scantool/laptop deal.

first: connecting to the car without keys.

description of immobilizer reset:
[attachmentid=7445]

you see this description when you select this:
[attachmentid=7446]

after selecting that option, you see this screen
[attachmentid=7447]

and connect to car, with blank fob in slot and car off (because without keys... it won't turn on!)
[attachmentid=7448]

it takes quite a while with the car off.
[attachmentid=7449]

you have to enter car info manually
[attachmentid=7450]
[attachmentid=7451]

and after this screen, it gives you the seed number to reset the immobilizer.
[attachmentid=7452]

next, the TIS authorization. not just anyone can log in and do this.
[attachmentid=7453]

it's under the diagnostics tab, listed as "immobilizer reset"
[attachmentid=7454]

and after this screen is where you enter the seed number you get from the car.
[attachmentid=7455]

this should be enough to get ANYONE started. now if someone still has trouble getting their local dealership to do this... well, there's only so much that we can do...

Excellent info! This is for the immobiliser. Do you know if there is a similar procedure for wireless and smart entry? I have a key that is working on the immobiliser ( I can start the car with no problem ) but the remote part of the key is not working ( key has black logo on back but the car has smart start&entry ). I already tried to learn another key from ebay ( silver logo on the back ) but the only result was that i have now 2 keys for immobiliser ( both keys can start the car , but none is working on wireless and smart entry ). I've tried to add ( with a scantool ) a new key for the smart entry , but it requires a master key ( which I dont have ). What can I do in order to have a fully functional key ?

[galaxee]

sorry, we missed this question several months ago. summer was pretty insane for us.

for the sake of providing an answer, whether the poster is still around or not- if you don't have a master key, then you have to reset the immobilizer and set a master key, then program the wireless portion.

i just updated the thread to put the photos back into the text to make it easier to read.

[alinica2001]

Originally Posted by galaxee

sorry, we missed this question several months ago. summer was pretty insane for us.

for the sake of providing an answer, whether the poster is still around or not- if you don't have a master key, then you have to reset the immobilizer and set a master key, then program the wireless portion.

i just updated the thread to put the photos back into the text to make it easier to read.

Thank you for your answer. I just saw your reply. Unfortunately, the Toyota dealer in Romania has no TIS. So, is there another way to reset the immobilizer without TIS? The car was bought from the USA and the unique key that came with the car has a black logo on the back ( despite the fact that the car has smart entry&smart start ).

[tundrwd]

Originally Posted by daronspicher

how about if we get rid of the pile of stickies already up there...

Or get them a page of their own... You click on the one sticky link which brings up the page of stickies.

+1 (more if I can vote more than once, I know some dead people in Illinois....)

I really get tired of having the entire top of the screen consumed with headers, ads and stickies. I realize the headers and ads aren't going away, but the stickies could certainly be moved.

And yes, I have a LARGE display (my "largest" display is set to 1280x1024, and the others are set with even higher resolutions), set with SMALL fonts (10pt Times Roman), and it's still a lot of real-estate.

[dafrogman]

Here's one.

I have a 2005 Prius with the silver-logo SKS key fob.
One of the original key fobs was lost but we still had the other original key.
Per the instructions in this forum, I purchased a key fob (silver logo) on Ebay and approached a dealer about programming the unit so I again could have two functional-keys. The dealer said, "No problem", and quoted me a price of $42. I took the Prius into the dealer with the original key and the one purchased on Ebay. The dealer was only able to program the second key to start the car. They stated that since (the fob) had been married to another car, the security system would not recognize it and it would ONLY work as a car-start/immoblizer-defeat type-key. Am I missing something? I thought that any like-key could be programmed for immoblizer AND door-lock/unlock as long as one of the original master-keys was present. The dealer says the security-functions and the engine-start/immoblizer functions are apples and oranges and I'm out of luck on the door lock/unlock functions.

True? Fiction? What must I tell the NEXT guy in order to get it right?

Please Help!