Help! My '03 fuses are all screwed up!

vettejock99 · 11-21-2007, 08:33 PM

Greetings all -

Here's the deal. I am trying to use a line to the dash fusebox to do the remote on/off for an amp I have in my Prius. It seemed like using one of the fuses for the power outlets would do the trick. In preparing for this, I noticed that my dash and console outlets are not working - even though they used to. Looking in the manual, and searching here, I would've believed it was numbers 19 and 21 that need to be checked. Here's where it gets REALLY weird.

Using the manual, it shows fuses 1-22 are under the dash, and 23 - 48 are in the engine compartment for my 2004 Prius. Well, there are marking along the edges of the white plastic under dash fuse housing and it shows 1 to 31. So, that is a discrepancy from my manual. Second, there is no fuse in 21, and 19 is fine. In fact, plugging a 15A fuse into 21 doesn't help. So, I am like WTF? I pull each fuse one by one and none appear to be blown. So then I have to wonder if one is missing altogether, since the car and the manual don't match. I put together a quick table that shows the slots from 1 - 31, what the car has, and what the manual says. Here it is:

Slot What’s There Book Says
1 None 30A
2 15A 40A
3 30A 15A
4 15A 30A
5 20A 15A
6 7.5A 20A
7 10A 7.5A
8 7.5A 10A
9 7.5A 7.5A
10 None 7.5A
11 25A 25A
12 25A 25A
13 None 15A
14 15A 7.5A
15 7.5A 10A
16 10A 7.5A
17 7.5A 10A
18 10A 20A
19 20A 15A
20 None 7.5A
21 None 15A
22 None 7.5A
23 None 30A (Spare)
24 7.5A 15A (Spare)
25 15A 7.5A
26 None 15A
27 None 15A
28 None 10A
29 15A 10A
30 7.5A 15A
31 None 15A

The car runs, but since I cannot turn the amp on/off yet, I have no audio, but from the multifunction display it seems to work. Car runs fine. No maint lights or anything. Power outlets do NOT work. Can someone please help me solve this mystery? THanks!!!

Mark

hobbit · 11-21-2007, 08:58 PM

First of all, is it an '03 or an '04 prius? Big difference.
.
Ignore the numbers shown in the owners manual. Use the key on the
fuse-block covers, by position. Those are accurate. The service
manuals don't even bother listing fuses by some arbitrary numbering
scheme, they just diagram out where each one sits.
.
How much current [peak] do you expect your amp to draw? You might
want a direct battery hookup from the back with a separate fuseholder.
.
_H*

vettejock99 · 11-21-2007, 11:07 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hobbit @ Nov 21 2007, 06:58 PM) [snapback]542739[/snapback]</div>

Quote:

First of all, is it an '03 or an '04 prius? Big difference.
.
Ignore the numbers shown in the owners manual. Use the key on the
fuse-block covers, by position. Those are accurate. The service
manuals don't even bother listing fuses by some arbitrary numbering
scheme, they just diagram out where each one sits.
.
How much current [peak] do you expect your amp to draw? You might
want a direct battery hookup from the back with a separate fuseholder.
.
_H*
[/b]

It's a 2004 Prius. I do have a direct hookup (fused) to the battery for the + on the amp, and a ground closeby. It has worked before, but I took it out for a few months and though the +/- hookups are there, this remote issue has been a PITA. Not as much as the power outlet mystery, though.

bobc · 11-21-2007, 11:33 PM

Mark,

Here is the cover of my fuse panel of my '05... Is your car an '04 or an '03? I found 2/3 discrepancies between your fuse list and and what I've got...

According to this, the power outlets are tied to 23 and 29. Both are 15 amps. Does yours look like this?

You've said that you've checked the fuses and that none appear to have blown. But, if your chart is correct, there needs to be a 15 amp fuse in the #23 spot. This fuse is needed for power to make it to both outlets. As a check, take the fuse out of the 29 spot and put it in the 23 spot. You'll at least have power to the center console....

If you haven't noticed, the fuses are different from those used elsewhere in the car and the industry. They are not as wide and the metal prongs are shorter. If you need to replace them, you have two options: With a pair of cutting pliers, trim down the standard fuses you can get at any auto place. Use safety goggles tho. The metal bits go flying. Or, head to Toyota and pick them up. Actually, call ahead of time because chances are they don't have them in stock. Also, expect to pay more than at an auto store...

If your still having problems then, try this: Put something appliance into each of the power outlets. Something that is going to turn on/light up when power reaches the oultlet. Wiggle the fuse in each of these slots around. I found that through the numerous mods that I've done, the metal prongs of the fuse box that the fuse slides into, open up and don't make contact with the fuse anymore. If by wiggling the fuses around, you've found the problem. To fix, power down and gently close the gap between these metal prongs. Be gentle tho. They are only held in place by plastic and move readily.

If that's not it, then dig up a volt meter and check to see that power is making it those two fuses. I seem to recall that power comes into those two fuse ports from the rear side for both. With rear referring to the rear of the car.

Have the car on to check all of this...

With that task behind you, I understand from your post that you are just wanting to tap the remote into the fuse panel to turn the amp on/off. A bunch of choices for this one. To make it clean, you could run the wire back behind the head and tap into the wire that supplies the head with this info. Or, at the fusebox, you can tap into whichever you think is best. I've pulled some info from John's site where I've actually plugged the wire into the front of the fuse box (facing the firewall) that corresponded to an empty fuse slot and plugged a fuse in that spot. At the junkyard, you can cut out any modern harnesses from some Toyota and harvest one of those pins that will pop right into the junction box. This is by far, the cleanest install.

www.vfaq.net/proj-pics/fuses/JB-fuses.gif
www.vfaq.net/proj-pics/fuses/JB-rear.gif

Another possibility is tapping into the power outlet wire feeding the outlet in the center console if that is handy.

Sorry, for some of the questions that you just answered while I was in the middle of writing this post....

Cheers,

hobbit · 11-22-2007, 09:17 AM

Wow, I think you'd have to really abuse those little clips to spread
them far enough to become loose. Then again, I haven't inserted and
removed fuses many tens of times on any of them.
.
I've got a set of pix of the innards of that whole junction block
posted here, which may help in understanding how it's constructed.
.
If you need always-on power you can do the equivalent of the Coastal
power-outlet mod, and tap the light-green wire from 1K:2 to run it
to wherever you need. That's how I power my instrument panel, so
it's independent from the car being powered up [it has its own
switch].
.
_H*

vettejock99 · 11-22-2007, 02:24 PM

Wow, guys. Thanks a lot for the help. I really didn't have high expectations I would get any help on something like this. Anyway, my car is definitely an '04, manufactured in 06/04. I had forgotten about the fuse box cover, which has been off for some time. It looks just like yours, Bob. I am going to take a look at this and your other suggestions, probably tomorrow morning, and report back. I hope there are still some spares of the Littelfuse mini fuses. I have some mini-ATC I have been told will work, but I am not super keen on paying $2 per fuse. Nevertheless, if I have to, I have to. Again, thanks folks. Happy Thanksgiving, and I will let you know how it turns out.

Mark

vettejock99 · 11-26-2007, 01:38 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(vettejock99 @ Nov 22 2007, 12:24 PM) [snapback]542956[/snapback]</div>

Quote:

Wow, guys. Thanks a lot for the help. I really didn't have high expectations I would get any help on something like this. Anyway, my car is definitely an '04, manufactured in 06/04. I had forgotten about the fuse box cover, which has been off for some time. It looks just like yours, Bob. I am going to take a look at this and your other suggestions, probably tomorrow morning, and report back. I hope there are still some spares of the Littelfuse mini fuses. I have some mini-ATC I have been told will work, but I am not super keen on paying $2 per fuse. Nevertheless, if I have to, I have to. Again, thanks folks. Happy Thanksgiving, and I will let you know how it turns out.

Mark
[/b]

Yup, that fixed the power outlets. Thanks again, that cover is critical to getting them right. Now I just have to figure out how to power the remote on/off on my amplifier and I will be set...

11-21-2007, 11:33 PM	#4
bobc Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Durham, NH Posts: 360 My Car: Model: Package: Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post Friends: 0	Mark, Here is the cover of my fuse panel of my '05... Is your car an '04 or an '03? I found 2/3 discrepancies between your fuse list and and what I've got... According to this, the power outlets are tied to 23 and 29. Both are 15 amps. Does yours look like this? You've said that you've checked the fuses and that none appear to have blown. But, if your chart is correct, there needs to be a 15 amp fuse in the #23 spot. This fuse is needed for power to make it to both outlets. As a check, take the fuse out of the 29 spot and put it in the 23 spot. You'll at least have power to the center console.... If you haven't noticed, the fuses are different from those used elsewhere in the car and the industry. They are not as wide and the metal prongs are shorter. If you need to replace them, you have two options: With a pair of cutting pliers, trim down the standard fuses you can get at any auto place. Use safety goggles tho. The metal bits go flying. Or, head to Toyota and pick them up. Actually, call ahead of time because chances are they don't have them in stock. Also, expect to pay more than at an auto store... If your still having problems then, try this: Put something appliance into each of the power outlets. Something that is going to turn on/light up when power reaches the oultlet. Wiggle the fuse in each of these slots around. I found that through the numerous mods that I've done, the metal prongs of the fuse box that the fuse slides into, open up and don't make contact with the fuse anymore. If by wiggling the fuses around, you've found the problem. To fix, power down and gently close the gap between these metal prongs. Be gentle tho. They are only held in place by plastic and move readily. If that's not it, then dig up a volt meter and check to see that power is making it those two fuses. I seem to recall that power comes into those two fuse ports from the rear side for both. With rear referring to the rear of the car. Have the car on to check all of this... With that task behind you, I understand from your post that you are just wanting to tap the remote into the fuse panel to turn the amp on/off. A bunch of choices for this one. To make it clean, you could run the wire back behind the head and tap into the wire that supplies the head with this info. Or, at the fusebox, you can tap into whichever you think is best. I've pulled some info from John's site where I've actually plugged the wire into the front of the fuse box (facing the firewall) that corresponded to an empty fuse slot and plugged a fuse in that spot. At the junkyard, you can cut out any modern harnesses from some Toyota and harvest one of those pins that will pop right into the junction box. This is by far, the cleanest install. www.vfaq.net/proj-pics/fuses/JB-fuses.gif www.vfaq.net/proj-pics/fuses/JB-rear.gif Another possibility is tapping into the power outlet wire feeding the outlet in the center console if that is handy. Sorry, for some of the questions that you just answered while I was in the middle of writing this post.... Cheers, Attached Thumbnails

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11-21-2007, 08:33 PM	#1
vettejock99 Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 8 My Car: Model: Package: Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Friends: 0	Greetings all - Here's the deal. I am trying to use a line to the dash fusebox to do the remote on/off for an amp I have in my Prius. It seemed like using one of the fuses for the power outlets would do the trick. In preparing for this, I noticed that my dash and console outlets are not working - even though they used to. Looking in the manual, and searching here, I would've believed it was numbers 19 and 21 that need to be checked. Here's where it gets REALLY weird. Using the manual, it shows fuses 1-22 are under the dash, and 23 - 48 are in the engine compartment for my 2004 Prius. Well, there are marking along the edges of the white plastic under dash fuse housing and it shows 1 to 31. So, that is a discrepancy from my manual. Second, there is no fuse in 21, and 19 is fine. In fact, plugging a 15A fuse into 21 doesn't help. So, I am like WTF? I pull each fuse one by one and none appear to be blown. So then I have to wonder if one is missing altogether, since the car and the manual don't match. I put together a quick table that shows the slots from 1 - 31, what the car has, and what the manual says. Here it is: Slot What’s There Book Says 1 None 30A 2 15A 40A 3 30A 15A 4 15A 30A 5 20A 15A 6 7.5A 20A 7 10A 7.5A 8 7.5A 10A 9 7.5A 7.5A 10 None 7.5A 11 25A 25A 12 25A 25A 13 None 15A 14 15A 7.5A 15 7.5A 10A 16 10A 7.5A 17 7.5A 10A 18 10A 20A 19 20A 15A 20 None 7.5A 21 None 15A 22 None 7.5A 23 None 30A (Spare) 24 7.5A 15A (Spare) 25 15A 7.5A 26 None 15A 27 None 15A 28 None 10A 29 15A 10A 30 7.5A 15A 31 None 15A The car runs, but since I cannot turn the amp on/off yet, I have no audio, but from the multifunction display it seems to work. Car runs fine. No maint lights or anything. Power outlets do NOT work. Can someone please help me solve this mystery? THanks!!! Mark

11-21-2007, 08:58 PM	#2
hobbit Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Bahstahn Posts: 3,837 My Car: 2004 Prius Model: N/A Package: Base Thanks: 0 Thanked 335 Times in 165 Posts Friends: 0	First of all, is it an '03 or an '04 prius? Big difference. . Ignore the numbers shown in the owners manual. Use the key on the fuse-block covers, by position. Those are accurate. The service manuals don't even bother listing fuses by some arbitrary numbering scheme, they just diagram out where each one sits. . How much current [peak] do you expect your amp to draw? You might want a direct battery hookup from the back with a separate fuseholder. . _H*

11-22-2007, 09:17 AM	#5
hobbit Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Bahstahn Posts: 3,837 My Car: 2004 Prius Model: N/A Package: Base Thanks: 0 Thanked 335 Times in 165 Posts Friends: 0	Wow, I think you'd have to really abuse those little clips to spread them far enough to become loose. Then again, I haven't inserted and removed fuses many tens of times on any of them. . I've got a set of pix of the innards of that whole junction block posted here, which may help in understanding how it's constructed. . If you need always-on power you can do the equivalent of the Coastal power-outlet mod, and tap the light-green wire from 1K:2 to run it to wherever you need. That's how I power my instrument panel, so it's independent from the car being powered up [it has its own switch]. . _H*

11-22-2007, 02:24 PM	#6
vettejock99 Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 8 My Car: Model: Package: Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Friends: 0	Wow, guys. Thanks a lot for the help. I really didn't have high expectations I would get any help on something like this. Anyway, my car is definitely an '04, manufactured in 06/04. I had forgotten about the fuse box cover, which has been off for some time. It looks just like yours, Bob. I am going to take a look at this and your other suggestions, probably tomorrow morning, and report back. I hope there are still some spares of the Littelfuse mini fuses. I have some mini-ATC I have been told will work, but I am not super keen on paying $2 per fuse. Nevertheless, if I have to, I have to. Again, thanks folks. Happy Thanksgiving, and I will let you know how it turns out. Mark