leaking Radiator (or hose). Please help

[jayman]

Originally Posted by Patrick Wong

I'd be cautious about applying either grease or brake parts cleaner on the rubber hose. Both substances may cause the rubber to deteriorate.

Vaseline may be used here, I've used it over +20 years with no issues yet. The hose will almost always show signs of failure from rot after +10 years of use.

Actually, the best and safest lube to use on a cooling hose is .... coolant. Dip your finger in straight coolant - or the Toyota SLLC premix stuff - coat the inside of the hose and the outlet, and slip on

You know, after re-reading the above several times, I'm just going to have to accept that it can be read in such a way as to have a shockingly wrong meaning.

[master4g]

ok, i finally had time to try and fix this so i tried just pressing the clamp and just trying to shove the hose in deeper, and i was able to get it in a little more..but now (a day later) the thing is slowly leaking. there is coolant left wherever i park my car and also on the part under the hose. I think that the clamp is just not tight enough anymore so i will go get one of those warn gear clamps as suggested earlier. Any other suggestions

My question now is: would you guys suggest i stick with toyotas super long life cooalnt? or any other coolant should be OK? or water? I only need a little bit and want to know if i can skip driving all the way to the dealership and then buying the huge container of coolant when i will only use 1/10 of it.

[jayman]

Originally Posted by master4g

My question now is: would you guys suggest i stick with toyotas super long life cooalnt? or any other coolant should be OK? or water?

Don't use the cheap green stuff - it will not be compatible with the coolant you now have. It's possible to find a non-silicate, non-nitrite, non-amine, hybrid organic acid coolant labeled "long life."

If you can find that stuff, and it claims safe to mix with other brands of long life coolant (Eg, compatible with Toyota SLLC), then it should be safe.

If the tap water is sourced from wells, never add hard water to a cooling system. Distilled water is best. Adding water will bugger the freeze protection (Probably doesn't apply to where you live) and the boil point

[master4g]

Ok, I went and bought some toyota SLLC and my question now is: the coolant has been seeping out of the hose and later it even dripped out of that same spot until I put on that Worm gear clamp, and now it has stopped seeping or dripping.

at the rate that it was coming out, I dont think that air got into the radiator/cooling system. What do you guys thing? Do I need to do the whole air bleeding, radiator filling, heater blasting thing? or can I just simply full the coolant reservoirs which have gone down a little?

[vertex]

Originally Posted by master4g

Ok, I went and bought some toyota SLLC and my question now is: the coolant has been seeping out of the hose and later it even dripped out of that same spot until I put on that Worm gear clamp, and now it has stopped seeping or dripping.

at the rate that it was coming out, I dont think that air got into the radiator/cooling system. What do you guys thing? Do I need to do the whole air bleeding, radiator filling, heater blasting thing? or can I just simply full the coolant reservoirs which have gone down a little?

How much coolant did you need to add? WAs the overflow bottle empty? There is probably no need to bleed the system. Just fill it up, drive it around and check the level. When I filled mine, I had trouble bleeding it, but after driving it a couple of times, and topping it off 2 x it was good.

[master4g]

the reservoir which is next to the radiator (bottom resevoir?) was on low and the top one was near low as well. I just had to fill up less than 10 oz. which is why i was trying to skip out of buying the whole gallon.

[Patrick Wong]

If the reservoirs still contained fluid, then you don't have to worry about air getting into the system. I suggest that you keep an eye on the fluid level when the drivetrain is cold, to make sure that no other leaks exist.

[jayman]

With the engine cold, squeeze the radiator hose. If it feels as if there is air in there, you may have to go through the bleeding process. If the hose feels full, and when the coolant transfer pump runs there isn't a deathly groaning/screeching sound, there shouldn't be any need to bleed the system

[nthach]

Originally Posted by jayman

Don't use the cheap green stuff - it will not be compatible with the coolant you now have. It's possible to find a non-silicate, non-nitrite, non-amine, hybrid organic acid coolant labeled "long life."

Dex-Cool or its clones such as Prestone is a no-no too. Peak Global Lifetime or it's Wal-Mart cousin Global Extended Life is OK but there is a consensus over at BITOG to whether or not it has 2-EHA and sodium neodecanate which causes all the issues with Dex-Cool.

I used soap and water without issue for years. I've seen mechanics use silicone spray or grease.

[jayman]

I agree. I personally will use the genuine Toyota SLLC. Prestone advertises a "universal" long life coolant that may be compatible. I personally do not think the potential "savings" are worth having major problems