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This is a discussion on So I figured out how to install my block heater within the Gen II Prius Modifications forums, part of the Gen II (2004-2009) Toyota Prius Forums category; Originally posted by jayman @Oct 21 2005, 07:25 PM Dan: Technically correct, but in the real world we still measure ...


So I figured out how to install my block heater

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Old 10-24-2005, 07:27 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by jayman@Oct 21 2005, 07:25 PM
Dan:

Technically correct, but in the real world we still measure cold.

I have a lot of industrial process control experience, and have had the misfortune to have to troubleshoot large 3-phase industrial electric resistance heaters. The application is a vaporizer to vaporize liquid CO2 for use in an industrial process.

The resistance heaters are plates that are sandwiched together. The failure of a plate can either cause the failure of an entire vaporizer - if series wired - or poor process performance.

To measure actual operating current and voltage, I let the MCC (Motor Control Center) worry about that. My job is way easier since most of my clients switched to the Rockwell/Allen-Bradley IntelliCenter MCC.

The IntelliCenter MCC uses DeviceNet to network all the 3-phase starters and overload relays, so no more individual wire runs from the control room to the MCC. The E3 solid state relay reports on: overload, underload, stall, jam, motor thermister output, phase angles, per-phase current RMS, voltage per-phase, etc.

Most of the larger +60 KW vaporizers are sequenced with 2-4 stages of heating. That prevents tripping overload relays in startup and also prolongs the life of the vaporizer elements.

It would be very dangerous to take the protective covers off a 3-phase industrial vaporizer during operation. The surface of the heating plates can become very hot, there is a chance for accidently touching a live wire spade, a safety valve could jam and expose you to a blowout, etc.

Actually it's strict company policy to NOT work on those units "live." I have to make sure the technicians know that too, wait until the thing is cold and power is locked out before checking the heater plates. A quick and simple resistance check is used for good/bad.

I have to drive out to the hobby farm this weekend, so what I can do is measure the heater resistance at the plug as soon as I pull the car into the garage. I think I can "borrow" the AEMC Power Quality Analyzer from work to be assured of accurate resistance values.

jay
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:28 PM   #42
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The link (below) was working this morn. but not now, so I called my local toyota dealer who said: "We show a part # of 00213.00889 for a block heater supplied by Pyroil (sp?) which will hit our Accessories Distrib. approx. 1st week of Nov.) I called Pyroil (Valvoline?) and they said they 'don't make or distribute hard goods, only fluids, i.e. oils, solvents). So, now what???

I definately saw a big mileage hit when I turned on new 'o5 and let the ICE warm it up for 5 min these last few mornings, so a block heater is definately in order.

Having lived in Alaska and having had the experience of a block heater, this has got to be a 'Must Have' for those of us not living in the "Sun Belt". Although we don't get 'gripping cold' here, we often average in the high 20's to low 30's in the early am for months on end and my kids (whom I take to school) and I like a warm car in addition to being able to see out the often frosty/dewy windows.

WOW!!! Speaking of Anchorage, I just found very 'cool' er, uh hot promotion for residents of the municipality of Anchorage to get a FREE BLOCK HEATER during their CLEAN AIR TRANSPORTATION WEEK, Nov. 7 - 13. 2005: Go here for the details: http://www.greenstarinc.org/enews/enewsv6n...nchor-AIR-14210

Dang, I'm an 'outside' cheechako now and I ain't no sourdoug, so all you Prii drivin- Anchoragites, drive on down and warm on up!!!

Where was I? Oh yeah, I did notice a different block heater spec'd for the '04 Prius but I can't find another reference to an '05 Prius Block Heater online. Anybody else have ideas as to a source?

Thanks for the bredth and depth of the Prii posters and this board!!!

All the best, Ken

Quote:
Originally posted by efusco@Oct 11 2005, 11:39 AM
Just for those interested in getting a block heater:

I called my local dealer's parts dept. and they looked up in their books/computers and reported back that there is not a block heater available for the '04/'05 Prius.

Obviously that is wrong.

I'd purchased from Toyota Town in the past (splash guards before they were available in the US) and thought I'd check them since they're located in Coldland (aka Canada).

They now use the monicre "The Toyota Depot.  They did, indeed, offer the block heater for CN$68 + CN$10 for shipping.  (not sure how much that'll convert to).  You can order online and pay with CC or Paypal.  Direct product link below.

http://www.toyotadepot.com/product_info.ph...products_id/144

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Old 10-26-2005, 07:50 PM   #43
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I called and ordered a block heater for my new '05 Prius from Steve at Toyotadepot.com in Langley, BC (604.530.9151) and asked him about install instructions. FWIW, steve mentioned that his techs install these from the TOP of the engine, not from underneath! Steve said his tech had his arm half way into the engine compartment sliding this puppy in!

I'll do some empirical snooping to see if I can see, feel, what, how to do this instal in the least life threatening manner.

If anyone else has had good results (or perhaps not!) from the top down approach, please advise.

Thanks, Ken
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:02 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally posted by kenkneeb@Oct 26 2005, 05:50 PM
I called and ordered a block heater for my new '05 Prius from Steve at Toyotadepot.com in Langley, BC (604.530.9151) and asked him about install instructions.  FWIW, steve mentioned that his techs install these from the TOP of the engine, not from underneath!  Steve said his tech had his arm half way into the engine compartment sliding this puppy in!

I'll do some empirical snooping to see if I can see, feel, what, how to do this instal in the least life threatening manner.

If anyone else has had good results (or perhaps not!) from the top down approach, please advise.

Thanks, Ken
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It might work but I think you'd have to remove something to get there. I recall some sort of coolant thing or something. Have to look under the hood.
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:07 PM   #45
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I was reading the MPG for Northeast thread, got me interested in getting a block heater as well. As far as I know, you'll have to plug this in to an outlet in your garage or something. But I don't have a garage. I park my car on the street.
I was thinking to get an extra car battery, a battery charger and a timer. I will install the block heater, then some how route the cord inside the car. Then I will use the extra car battery with the timer to power the block heater one to two hours before I go to work. Then I will use the battery charger to charge the extra battery when I drive the car. Any suggestion from you guys?
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Old 10-26-2005, 11:23 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally posted by efusco@Oct 26 2005, 04:02 PM
It might work but I think you'd have to remove something to get there.  I recall some sort of coolant thing or something.  Have to look under the hood.
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I just went and looked that the 2k4 and it might just be possible if you remove the relay box to get a long thin arm down the back side of the ICE but I doubt that mine would fit there. Up on a hoist and stick it in probably the quickest. And you have to admit that now you've done one, the rest are a piece of cake and after the fourth one the rest would only take what 3 minutes a piece? your well on the way to being a flat rate mechanic at this speed!
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mine 2k3 avg. 5.36 for 46,915Km Best tank 4.4L per 100K 64.2 Imperial 53.4 U.S. gallon, MiniScanner, SilverStars, block heater, winter lips, in as of Oct 15, out on April 25. In again on Sept. 21st.

her's 2k4 "B" avg. 6.01 for 42,317 Km Best tank 4.02L per 100K, CAN-view with OBD11 module and flashloader, SilverStars, 06 Chrome grill bar, Michelin HydroEdge, upper and lower grill blocker,upper out as of April 7, lower out on April 28. In again on Sept 21st.
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Old 10-27-2005, 12:17 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frank Hudon@Oct 26 2005, 09:23 PM
I just went and looked that the 2k4 and it might just be possible if you remove the relay box to get a long thin arm down the back side of the ICE but I doubt that mine would fit there. Up on a hoist and stick it in probably the quickest. And you have to admit that now you've done one, the rest are a piece of cake and after the fourth one the rest would only take what 3 minutes a piece? your well on the way to being a flat rate mechanic at this speed!
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I dunno, need more practice getting that *&$(&% plug on the end. But yea, getting the core in properly and running the wire would be quick work. With the car on a lift the entire process would be easier.
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Old 10-27-2005, 12:36 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally posted by efusco@Oct 26 2005, 08:17 PM
I dunno, need more practice getting that *&$(&% plug on the end.  But yea, getting the core in properly and running the wire would be quick work.  With the car on a lift the entire process would be easier.
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isn't the cord the PIA, the heater is just another job but the cord should be wrapped around the designers throat.
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Old 10-27-2005, 09:59 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frank Hudon@Oct 26 2005, 10:36 PM
isn't the cord the PIA, the heater is just another job but the cord should be wrapped around the designers throat.
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At this point I'm still bitter about the cord. It isn't hard to plug it in when you can look at it and see what's up, but with your arm stuck up in the greasy hole with sharp edges and no work space and whatever that little piece is preventing you from sticking the core in with the plug already on in the way it makes for a frustrating test of endurance.
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Old 10-27-2005, 10:20 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally posted by efusco@Oct 27 2005, 08:59 AM
At this point I'm still bitter about the cord.  It isn't hard to plug it in when you can look at it
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Doc:

Unfortunately that's a common problem with many small keyed connectors. When you look at them, they seem obvious. Now try to line up the mating pins at an odd angle when you can't see it.

In industry, I specify Turck junction boxes and connectors for Foundation FieldBus, CANBus, DeviceNet, and ControlNet field devices (Sensors, valve positioners, motor control, Jog/Stop stations, etc). It's a very quick and elegant solution - until you have to work blind at an odd angle.

There was one particular case a couple of years ago in Idaho when I was atop a very tall silo at a soda ash plant. The level transmitter was on a flange right on the edge of the silo, so I was half-suspended in air with just the harness to keep me from learning to flap my arms to fly.

It was a miserable rainy day, very windy, and that alone it took me 15 minutes of struggle to line up the mating pins on the connector. I'm not saying trying to hook up a 4-20 mA analog wire junction would be any easier, it would actually take a lot more work.

The more simple things become, the more complicated they become. I'm serious.

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