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| This is a discussion on Toyota Signal Mirrors within the Gen II Prius Modifications forums, part of the Gen II (2004-2009) Toyota Prius Forums category; Now that issues seem to have cooled down, there is an additional mod that can be done to the signal ... |
Toyota Signal Mirrors
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| | #241 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 529
My Car: 2006 Prius Model: Package: #5 Thanks: 0
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Friends: 0 | Now that issues seem to have cooled down, there is an additional mod that can be done to the signal mirrors. I intend to wire in resistors and diodes from the parking lights to the signal mirrors so that the signal mirrors light up at a low level and, in effect, become side marker lights. I will need to do some experimenting to determine the size of the resistor needed. A separate resistor/diode pair will be required for each signal light. The connection can be made at the connector panel where the signal lights were originally connected. |
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| | #242 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: San Ramon Valley, CA, USA
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Friends: 1 | <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(syclone @ Jan 4 2007, 11:57 PM) [snapback]371123[/snapback]</div> Quote:
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| | #243 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 220
My Car: 2006 Prius Model: Package: Thanks: 0
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Friends: 0 | <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(CyJak @ Jan 4 2007, 05:11 PM) [snapback]370980[/snapback]</div> Quote:
One thought we had while doing our installs was tracing out the wiring that runs under the channel at the door threshold and tapping into the wires that go to the rear turn signals. You would need a signal tracer (fox and hound) to identify the wires, but it should be an easier connection there. Good luck with your install.
__________________ Mudflaps - Stubby Antennae - Body Side Molding - MFD Hood and Screen Protector - Factory EV Button - Bumper Guard - Toyota Valve Caps - Center Console Cover - Exactmats - Pin Striping - LED side mirror signal covers - Footwell illumination - Burl wood dashboard - Zaino - MEMBER OF LIPOG.ORG </span> | |
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| | #244 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Fremont, CA
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Friends: 0 | I have been looking to install the signal mirror for a while now. This weekend, I finally did it successfully. Thanks for everyone who posted in this thread. Your postings have been of great help to me. Allow me to summarize my experience for those who wish to do it as well. I purchase my signal mirrors from the EBayer guy, Tommy. You should be able to find it by searching "Prius Signal Mirror" on Ebay. - sequence to replace the cover (I describe the passenger side. The driver side is similar). 1. Pull out the tweeter outward with gentle-increasing force. The metal pin on the top has the tendency to fall inside the mirror. No worry. You will take apart of the mirror anyway. You will have it again. Detach the wiring connector to the tweeter. 2. unscrew the inside door handle - take it out. 3. Pull the inside door latch. Pop out the plastic trim piece with the flat screw drive. Once done, you will see one screw. Unscrew it. 4. Pull the door panel from the lower side (with gentle-increasing force). Gradually do the same to left and right side of the door panel. Once you have loosen the door panel, look behind the panel and disconnect connectors. 5. Disconnect the connectors to the mirror (powered mirrors). 6. Loosen the three nuts holding the mirror assemble to the body. Remove the mirror assemble by pulling the wire gently thru the hole. 7. (now you have the mirror assemble free from the car). Push the upside of the mirror inward gently (you will hear clicking sound, but it is normal). The mirror is hold in place by four contact points. You need to use a flat screw driver to pop loose the bottom two. Once you have done that, the top two contact points are easy to slide out at certain angle. Don't force those two out. You may break the contact points. Now you have the mirror connected by two wires to the base. Disconnect the two wires (mark them so you know which is which). The mirror is now free from the base. 8. Look inside the base and your will see 6+ latches that hold the cover to the base. Push some of them loose (I did mine on the top ones). Once you make some loose, others are easy to come off. Now you have the cover free from the base. 9. Look at the base from the bottom, you will see three screws. Loosen them. Now the mirror base is loosely connected to the plate that holds it to the car. You need to do this step to run the signal wires. 10. Run the wire pair (black and red) thru the hole by following the power mirror wiring. This should be obvious. So I won't explain it more. The trick part is that you need to cut a small hole on the tape so the wire pair could come out of the tube. You will see what I mean when you actually do it. 11. Now the wiring is in place. Unscrew two black pieces with screws from the signal cover. Push the signal cover to the base with force enough to heard clicking sound. Make sure all sides are pushed into place by making sure all latches are latched properly. I found the fit to be very good. If you disagree, you need to try harder or investigate what is wrong. One latches are in place, screw on the two black pieces you just took out. The two are different from each other. Make sure you screw them on properly. 12. At this point, you might want to tighten the wires with tapes along the power-mirror wires. 13. Screw tight the three screws on the bottom side, make sure you tighten the wires while doing this. 14. Run wires (power mirror and signal mirror) thru the hole on the door, and attach the mirror assemble to the door from outside so that the three bolts are visible from inside. Put on the nuts and tighten them. !!! Watch out: Don't over-tighten the nuts. You may break the bolts. 15. Connect the power mirror wire connector. 16. Pull the some portion of the clear plastic cover for the power window so that the signal mirror wires (B&R) can run reach inside the door toward the rubber boot. 17. Pop out the rubber boots on the door side. You should be able to run the wires to the door-end of the rubber boot. Pull the wires out from the rubber boot. Put the door panel back into place by reconnecting all the connectors and snap all contact points in place. 18. Pop out the rubber boot on the body end (not entirely - I found it impossible). Make a small cut on the top side about 2cm in length. You need to cut it on the inner portion so rain water would not cause a leak. 19. Find a cloth hanger that is made of metal wires. Take a piece of metal wire from it about 1-ft long. Bend one end to make a circle and flatten it. Attach your signal mirror wires to the other end and hold them to the metal wire with duck tape. Put some oil (I used cooking oil) to lessen friction on the whole wire setup. 20. Run the wire setup you just made from the door-end of rubber boot to the body end. This would not be easy but not that hard either (especially now that you have read this, I hope it becomes easier). When the wire setup reaches the body end (you can see it visually). Open the cut you made and use a plyer to pull the wire setup out of the rubber boot. With luck, the signal wires should come out if they are still attached to the wire setup. Don't give up. This is the toughest part. 21. Loosen the trim pieces at the doorsill and the bigger piece near the rubber boot so that the wires can be reached from the rubber boot (it is hard to discribe w/o picture, but you will know which one. It is obvious.) 21. Now, put the wire setup into the rubber boot thru the cut toward the inside of passenger side. This part is easier than the previous leg. Once this is successful, pull the wires inside the passenger side. Now the most difficult part is over. Congrads! 22. Refit the larger trim piece near the rubber boot. - running the wires 1. You can either follow other people' suggestion by running the wires to the fuse box or other ways. As long as they are signal wires, the LEDs would light up properly. For me, I don't like to deal with dash assembly (cause rattles, noises, etc.). I ran the wires to the rear-end by following the doorsills, behind the rear seats, traction battery, then to the rear signal lights. Make wire taps there. Red->Green/Yellow. Black to Black/White. 2. Put all the trim pieces back in place. 3. Test the signal mirror. Voila!!!! OK. One side is done. Repeat the whole process on the driver side. The only difference I found was that one connector (for power windows) inside the driver-side door panel is hard to disconnect, so I left it connected while working thru the whole process. No problem. Also, try not to over-tighten bolts. I broke one. My only regret! Because I could not find detail guidance even on this site (Tommy no longer gives you instructions other than a small piece of paper describing how to work on the mirror glass...), I spent too much time on the rubber boot. It went OK at the end. I hope that, with my instructions here, your installation can go even faster. I apologize for any typos and grammar errors you may have found so far. Just don't tell my English teachers. Feel free to refine or poof-read these instructions. I abandon any rights to these instructions, and I won't be liable for anything bad that could happen to you during the installation. Please follow the instructions with those in mind. In plain English, "Don't sue me!" Good Luck.
__________________ 2005' Tideland Prius (Dec, 2004) Mods Done: body-side moldings, wood dash kit, rear bumper applique, ultrasound backup sensors, backup camera, signal mirrors, BT stiffening plate, 205/60R15 tires, leather-trim interior, all-weather mats, shark-fin antenna |
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| | #245 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006
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Friends: 0 | <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DocVijay @ Jan 4 2007, 10:14 PM) [snapback]371110[/snapback]</div> Quote:
Sorry I have not replied about my Sigma signal mirrors. They did fit perfectly and are an exact color match. My installer says if we came up with the correct connection, he could make them fold electrically. I am quite please to have purchased the full mechanism instead of just the housings. I still feel they would sell enough more mirrors, and customers would pay more than enough to pay for an english translations. Would as many people buy the miiros without the translation or unpainted? I don't think so. Those were a couple of reasons I almost did not buy the mirrors, though. It is a convenence thing not necessarily a deal breaker for everyone.
__________________ 2007 Prius Barcelona Red Touring Model with package #5 Grey leather upgrade which includes leather console cover Sigma Color coded body side molds, Barcalona Red Weathertech Side window rain deflectors BT Tech stiffening plate Sigma Hood deflector Sigma Prius Gas Electric Hybrid decals White TOURING Emblem (rear) Sigma Signal Mirrors, Barcalona Red DICE Coastal LockPick3 and EV switch Apple iPhone Proud owner of a hybrid since December 2003. 04 Prius Black | |
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| | #246 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006
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Friends: 1 | Here's my mirrors that I ordered from Sigma. I finally got to post the pics. The install is by no means easy. But, with a lot of patience, it paid off! Vince. |
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| | #247 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: San Ramon Valley, CA, USA
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Friends: 1 | Vince- Very nice. You just have to love using your turn signals now. I really like mine and have spotted more than one Prius owner looking at them as I sit waiting to turn or while switching lanes. This is just a no brainer when it comes to added safety. |
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| | #248 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006
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Friends: 1 | My signal mirrors are by far one of the BEST mods I've done on my car. I had a couple in a Prius at a stoplight roll their window down, and they asked whether my car was an 08! Hehehehe. It's fun to drive around one of the only few Prius that has external mods like mine here in Ohio. Vince. |
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| | #249 | |
| Prius Absolutum Dominium Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Long Island, NY
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Friends: 10 | <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(cairo94507 @ Mar 19 2007, 08:51 PM) [snapback]408672[/snapback]</div> Quote:
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| | #250 |
| Member Join Date: Nov 2006
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Friends: 0 | What type/kind of fuse do I need to add to Tommy's ebay version of the signal mirrors? He has great delivery service by the way. Ordered on Sunday, received from Hong Kong the next Saturday ( while I was working on my speaker upgrade in the driveway). I've read all the posts...what is the best way to connect the wires? I don't trust my soldering abilities...especially in tight places and I've read some concern about the Scotchloks. I know I can handle twisting wires together, adding a cap and then some tape to ensure the cap stays on, but this just seems a little "low tech". Thanks to all for the help.
__________________ 2005 Package #6, white, 17" weds with general tires (about 8 oz more per wheel/tire than stock), trafficgauge, window tint, Focal front door speakers, auto door lock, trd sportivo suspension, toms front shock tower brace, Toms front lower brace, Toms rear suspension brace, HID foglights, signal mirrors, Damplifier noise reduction, anti-rattle pads, Lockpick, HD radio/Ipod adaptor, Sirius. |
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