Block heater apparently not working

[JimboK]

The past two mornings I've started with ICE temps in the 60s as opposed to the normal 140s. I've started at different locations with different outlets and extension cords, so it's not the power supply. I'm confident it's not just an erroneous reading in Can-View; the car's behavior (i.e., prolonged warmup cycle) is consistent with a cold start. Best guess, therefore, is that the block heater itself isn't working.

A PC search found three other reported instances of block heater failure. One was Evan's with his plug failures. The other two didn't work from the beginning, one from faulty installation and another after dealer installation, with no resolution reported in the thread.

I've never pulled off with it plugged in (like others have reported ), but I figure I can start with replacing the plug if need be. I can inspect whatever portion of the cord inside the car for obvious physical damage. Any further ideas for troubleshooting? Any theories on where exactly the problem might be? Has anyone heard of the heater element ever failing?

[David Beale]

You need a multi-meter with ohms function. Measure across the two flat prongs and wiggle the plug. You should see around 30 ohms. If you get nothing, check where the cord plugs into the block heater. It could have come off there. Next step is to check the cord - remove and use the ohms function to get a short from end to end on each line (but not to each other, of course). If the cord is fine, then the heater has failed. You can check it directly with the ohm meter, but it's kind of difficult to get to.

[efusco]

I just changed my EBH out about 5 minutes ago due to my concern that my repaired cord (hack job) wouldn't hold up well during the coming winter.

I planned to just pull off the old cord and plug in the new one, but the orange part that plugs into the core had gotten very brittle and just broke off when I tried to unplug it.

Sooo....I got to do the whole job. Took about 15-20 minutes this time, helps a LOT to know exactly where the core goes and the orientation of the orange plug (odd...about 4 O'Clock). I'd forgotten just how tight that space is to reach in there (very).

Got it plugged in now, starting ICE temp was 114 and I'll check it in about an hour to make sure it's working properly.

In any case, once I got the old plug in the house I was able to dig the old plug out in a few pieces. So if anyone needs a 'gently used' core without a cord let me know!

[JimboK]

Thanks to both of you.

David, I have a multimeter and already plan to check the resistance. But I wasn't sure what more I could do besides the plug-jiggling maneuver. Not having installed it myself, are you guys suggesting the cord detaches from the heater itself? Easily?

Evan, I figure a replacement would be a lot easier than a first-time installation. No guessing as to which hole to use, where it's located, or where to route the cord.

[finman]

I think mine may be inop.

First AM I saw a rise in MPG for the 1st 5 minutes as well as the 2nd five minutes. Really happy! The following days (2 weeks now) no such increase(s). Weather has been roughly the same AM temps.

I'm going to do the ohms check. What about the grease? I used most of the tube and tossed the rest...could not enough grease cause failure? What can I use to replace the grease if I end up removing the element from the block? Not sure what to go ask for at the auto zone...

[efusco]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(finman @ Oct 3 2007, 08:22 AM) [snapback]520535[/snapback]</div>

I think mine may be inop.

First AM I saw a rise in MPG for the 1st 5 minutes as well as the 2nd five minutes. Really happy! The following days (2 weeks now) no such increase(s). Weather has been roughly the same AM temps.

I'm going to do the ohms check. What about the grease? I used most of the tube and tossed the rest...could not enough grease cause failure? What can I use to replace the grease if I end up removing the element from the block? Not sure what to go ask for at the auto zone... [/b]

I think the lube helps the EBH heat more efficiently, but it certainly isn't essential. When I removed my old one yesterday it was bone dry and had been working just fine (I replaced only b/c the cord was bad).



Jimbo, I think the Knowledge Base has the install instructions now so you can see what all the pieces/parts look like.

Here's the cord seperate and attached to the core, so you can see how and where it could pull off.

[JimboK]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(efusco @ Oct 3 2007, 09:28 AM) [snapback]520539[/snapback]</div>

Jimbo, I think the Knowledge Base has the install instructions now so you can see what all the pieces/parts look like.

Here's the cord seperate and attached to the core, so you can see how and where it could pull off.[/b]

Thanks, Evan. I've seen pictures of the uninstalled parts. My concern was whether the cord can be unplugged at the heater once installed. I didn't know, for example, whether it clips or locks into place. It sounds like it doesn't.

[David Beale]

I didn't do the engineering for the block heater, but I suspect the grease is there to keep water out (it would tend to explode boil and that would scare the owner ). An improvement would be to use "heat conductive grease" from an electronics store. Be warned, just looking at this stuff gets it all over you. It's white, usually, and is silicone grease with metal oxide powder mixed in. Harmless when it gets on your hands, but can stain cloths. If you don't have an electronics store handy, try a computer store. It is used under the CPU heatsink/fan assy.

This block heater cord connection (at the heater) is probably the weak point. I suspect the heater gets quite warm due to poorer connection with the coolant than the immersion type (loop in coolant through expansion "frost plug"). So the extra temperature will cause more rapid corrosion at the plug-in point. I think the silicone heat conduction grease may reduce that problem, but probably wouldn't eliminate it entirely.

Yes, I'd just reach up there and try to press the cord onto the heater. If it moves, that was your problem. If not, it could still be corroded as Evans was. It may be the "standard" cord used on many block heaters. If so, you only need a new cord. If not, a new block heater with cord.

Note that the silicone dielectric grease that comes with the block heater is good for waterproofing the plug-in at the heater. Just squirt it or press it into the plug and it will keep water out of the connection.

[FireEngineer]

What did you do to my baby? Do the ohm check. If nothing then you'll have to check the underneath and see if the plug is in the heater. If that's OK the next would be a bad cord at the plug. Let's see.

The grease is to help span the gap between the metal heater casing and the block itself. It's not a super efficient heat transfer grease but it works for the purpose.

Wayne

[JimboK]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(FireEngineer @ Oct 3 2007, 01:56 PM) [snapback]520699[/snapback]</div>

What did you do to my baby? [/b]

I was going to ask you the same thing. It stopped working right after you left town. :P