2010 II 12 Volt Battery Dead After 17 Days of Parking

[LulzChicken]

Originally Posted by RodJo

Isn't the problem then getting to the cargo area to reconnect the battery?

Ahh! that's a very good question because.. the hatch doesn't have a mechanical lock on it does it? I guess you could fold down the back seats before you store the car and disconnect the neg. terminal on the battery so you wouldn't have to climb over the seats.

[rachaelseven]

Originally Posted by radiocycle

I just called the service dept. at Lompoc Toyota, where we bought our '10 II and told them we're going on vacation for 3 or 4 weeks. I asked if that would run the battery dead. He said yes it would and here is what to do: In the cargo area there is a small door that gives access to the 'small' battery. Disconnect the neg. terminal.

I asked if we simply reconnect the battery when we return. He said, yes it should fire up, no problem. So that's what we'll try.

That's ridiculous. Not you, what your dealer told you. If it is true that we should expect the battery to go dead after sitting for a couple weeks, which I doubt, then the battery is seriously undersized for the job and I will be greatly disappointed in Toyota. We should not have to disconnect the battery and lose all our radio presets and whatnot just to leave the car in airport parking for a couple weeks... who ever heard of such a thing! Sheesh, makes me long for a crank on the front. Heck, for the power it takes to engage a contactor and boot up the computer, you ought to be able to jump the thing from the USB port on your laptop.

[radiocycle]

Originally Posted by RodJo

Isn't the problem then getting to the cargo area to reconnect the battery?

Wouldn't you just use the key? ....oh I see what you're saying; I'll have to crawl over the seats and all. Eh, no problem.

And yes, this does seem to be a hassle on a brand new car but I suppose that's the state of the art with the available technology at this price point.

radio

[bluemonday]

Originally Posted by radiocycle

Wouldn't you just use the key?

The fob? If the battery's dead, the fob wouldn't work to unlock anything.

I don't think there's a slot on the back for the little mechanical key.

[Sandy]

get a solar 12V trickle charger and park on the top floor.works great.

[rachaelseven]

Originally Posted by Sandy

get a solar 12V trickle charger and park on the top floor.works great.

All the more reason to think about hacking the solar panel... let it run the fan when the battery is charged and switch over to trickle charging the 12V battery if it gets low.

[hobbit]

F'krissake, can't someone just go out and MEASURE the quiescent
current and report back??
.
It would be nice if there was a way to tell the car, "disable
SKS and RKE *now*" for just such occasions. Maybe the relevant
ECU harnesses could be pulled behind the glovebox. But instead
of waiting 5 days, someone should see if the "disable after key
is within range for 10 minutes" actually works, and how long
it remains in effect if/after the key is removed from the field.
.
_H*

[indianapens@msn.com]

Originally Posted by indianapens@msn.com

Left my 2010 Prius II at a parking facility in Chicago for just over two weeks. Upon return, the 12 volt battery was completely dead. After a $50 jump start, returned the car to the dealership for assistance. Their report:"everything is fine and this is common for the Prius as there are numerous computers that are running as well as SKS". BTW, SKS can not be easily turned on and off in the 2010 series.

According to the dealer, Toyota's position is that anything over 10 days of storage with no driver activity will result in a discharged 12 volt battery. Both the dealer and I looked in the owner's manual and could find nothing describing this situation, but apparently they have a service bulletin that covers it.

One possible solution when parking the car for an extended period is to disconnect a lead from the battery but that would require me to climb through the back seat area and manually open the hatch door to gain access to the battery to reconnect the lead. Another idea would be to pull a small fuse called the "short pin" located in the center of the main fuse box. Both ideas are rather cumbersome to say the least.

Anyone have any other ideas?

I'd like to add one other thing. With the "short pin" pulled, the car can STILL BE STARTED by holding the smart key near the green power button which will then light up and function normally. Apparently cars are delivered to the dealer with this pin already pulled and they use this technique to get the cars off the truck when delivered.

If you are curious, the "short pin" is white and located just to the left of #23 in the engine compartment fuse box layout, page 457, in my owners manual.

Is there any known downside to pulling the short pin?

I've got to get a good solution to all of this as I'm parking the car for 16 days again in November. Thanks!

[tumbleweed]

Yo Rachaelseven! I bet you have a clamp on Amp meter? How about doing what Hobbit suggested and measure the current with the car off, doors closed, etc.

I'm still 1500 miles from home in a motel and I don't have a meter with me.

[tumbleweed]

Originally Posted by indianapens@msn.com

I'd like to add one other thing. With the "short pin" pulled, the car can STILL BE STARTED by holding the smart key near the green power button which will then light up and function normally. Apparently cars are delivered to the dealer with this pin already pulled and they use this technique to get the cars off the truck when delivered.

If you are curious, the "short pin" is white and located just to the left of #23 in the engine compartment fuse box layout, page 457, in my owners manual.

Is there any known downside to pulling the short pin?

I've got to get a good solution to all of this as I'm parking the car for 16 days again in November. Thanks!

If the car can still be started whith the "short pin" removed it can't unhook the 12V battery. So I wonder what it does?