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Old 10-05-2007, 01:58 PM   #21
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Anyone who thinks the drop in MPG is significant with the A/C on and is bothered by it, I recommend getting treated for OCD. Get treated before it's too late, please!!!
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Old 10-05-2007, 02:12 PM   #22
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hyo silver @ Oct 4 2007, 06:50 PM) [snapback]521502[/snapback]</div>
Quote:
Hadn't we come to the conclusion in a previous thread that windows up/cool air on used less gas at highway speeds?
[/b]
Yes. But windows up, AC off uses even less gas. As said earlier, all the energy ultimately (unless you have a plug in) comes from the gasoline. And it DOES take energy to run the AC if there's a temperature difference between inside and outside.

Dave M.
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Old 10-05-2007, 03:01 PM   #23
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Bob64 @ Oct 5 2007, 08:06 AM) [snapback]521666[/snapback]</div>
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Also, I think that your battery statement that the battery fan goes on high is a bit exaggerated. According to a battery presentation from Wayne, I'm lead to believe that the batteries of the prius II are much more efficient at dissipating heat and that the fan rarely goes high speed.
[/b]
This may be true, but the PHEV folks have also discovered that the battery ECU starts limiting current well before the fan goes to 100%. Part of the calcars PHEV conversion is a mod to the oem battery fan to make it come on stronger sooner, to maximize EV/assist availability.

Also interesting to note that the DOE study found a big hit on the '01 Prii they tested, as I recall about 10mpg with AC on! I believe the '01's used a traditional belt driven compressor didn't they? Seems like the '04+ electrical compressor is a big improvement with regards to efficiency!

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dmckinstry @ Oct 5 2007, 01:12 PM) [snapback]521862[/snapback]</div>
Quote:
Yes. But windows up, AC off uses even less gas. As said earlier, all the energy ultimately (unless you have a plug in) comes from the gasoline. And it DOES take energy to run the AC if there's a temperature difference between inside and outside.

Dave M.
[/b]
True, but you are ignoring the battery temperature issue. As the battery heats up, the ECU turns down the available charge/discharge current (CCL/CDL) until its basically off. Since the battery uses cabin air for cooling, hot cabin = hot battery. While its true that the AC must consume energy, its also possible for the disabling of the battery to result in a greater loss of efficiency and consequently lower mpg than the AC on condition.

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Old 10-05-2007, 03:07 PM   #24
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(David Beale @ Oct 5 2007, 11:28 AM) [snapback]521806[/snapback]</div>
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Also, just to confirm windows open "wastes" energy, I've used it descending mountain passes to help hold my speed, just to see what the difference was between this and using "B". The difference was the "thumping" caused by the air pressure resonating at around 5 Hz in the cabin. Otherwise, the windows open would hold my speed almost as well as "B". So it does "waste" energy/is aerodynamically inefficient. Just like most other vehicles I've owned. Heck, the anti-Prius (2001 Pathfinder) owners manual recommended using A/C instead of having the windows open at highway speeds, stating it was more fuel efficient that way. And it was.
[/b]
Are you talking all four windows open all the way? That would make a big difference. When I put the windows down, I generally have the front drivers' side down 2-3" and the diagonal (back seat, RHS) down about 2". That gets a good cross-breeze flowing thru the whole car, and by keeping the front window down a bit more than the back window you avoid that annoying low-frequency beat. At low speeds (<50mph) this uses less fuel than the A/C, but at high enough speeds even the partially-open windows probably use more energy.
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Old 10-05-2007, 05:19 PM   #25
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I think the A/C drain varies a lot depending on how strong it's running. I did seem to notice a drop when it was 115F here and the A/C was running full power pretty much all the time. Now that it's cooler and it runs less (or not at all), I seem to be getting better mileage.
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Old 10-05-2007, 07:34 PM   #26
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(PriusOwner004 @ Oct 5 2007, 12:58 PM) [snapback]521853[/snapback]</div>
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Anyone who thinks the drop in MPG is significant with the A/C on and is bothered by it, I recommend getting treated for OCD. Get treated before it's too late, please!!!
[/b]
Smiling. That's me! Unfortunately the meds made me sleepy. So I stopped taking them. Now I'm just....well...hot. At least I'm awake while driving now.
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Old 10-05-2007, 10:13 PM   #27
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What I've been able to see since I got my CAN-View is that the biggest draw from using the AC is (a) when it runs on high when you first startup in order to bring the cabin down towards the setpoint and ( when the engine is off (stealth/EV).

The AC on full-blast is easily 12-15 amps coming out of your battery. That's pretty darn significant, especially when you startup and pull 30-50 amps in stage-1 warmup to get yourself to even 25 MPH.

Advice point #1: Don't run the AC until stage 1 is complete. Open your windows and let the wind take out the really hot air that may have gathered inside while you were parked in the sun. Corollary: park in the shade and crack open a window or two -- it really helps!

Advice point #2: Don't run the AC when your engine is stopped for more than a brief while. Turning off the AC for the 10-45 seconds you're at a stoplight will really help not bring down the SOC of your battery. If you've been running the AC for a while already, it won't get much hotter in your car during that time. This also goes for long stealth glides. At 40 MPH, you're pulling at least 5.5 amps as it is. Don't pull another 10 if you can help it -- just turn off the AC for that 30 seconds. Then turn it on when the engine is running (i.e. while you pulse back up). This may sound a bit ridiculous -- but on a 35 mile mixed city/highway trip that I do pretty often, my highest MPG record was when I had the AC on and used this method!

Once the AC has brought the cabin down to a reasonable level and it cuts back on the amount of power the compressor consumes (a big advantage of the Prius system), thing really aren't that bad. This is why there isn't a huge hit on long distance highway driving, and there is an enormous hit on really short city driving. Once I moved such that I was 3 miles away from work, I stopped using the AC altogether for my commute, because it would bring my trip MPG down at least 20%. I'm not even kidding...

Anyway, the moral of the story: Use the AC judiciously. Having the CAN-View really helped me understand how to use an energy hog more wisely without a big sacrifice .
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Old 10-05-2007, 10:46 PM   #28
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(iluvmacs @ Oct 5 2007, 09:13 PM) [snapback]522045[/snapback]</div>
Quote:
What I've been able to see since I got my CAN-View is that the biggest draw from using the AC is (a) when it runs on high when you first startup in order to bring the cabin down towards the setpoint and ( when the engine is off (stealth/EV).

The AC on full-blast is easily 12-15 amps coming out of your battery. That's pretty darn significant, especially when you startup and pull 30-50 amps in stage-1 warmup to get yourself to even 25 MPH.

Advice point #1: Don't run the AC until stage 1 is complete. Open your windows and let the wind take out the really hot air that may have gathered inside while you were parked in the sun. Corollary: park in the shade and crack open a window or two -- it really helps!

Advice point #2: Don't run the AC when your engine is stopped for more than a brief while. Turning off the AC for the 10-45 seconds you're at a stoplight will really help not bring down the SOC of your battery. If you've been running the AC for a while already, it won't get much hotter in your car during that time. This also goes for long stealth glides. At 40 MPH, you're pulling at least 5.5 amps as it is. Don't pull another 10 if you can help it -- just turn off the AC for that 30 seconds. Then turn it on when the engine is running (i.e. while you pulse back up). This may sound a bit ridiculous -- but on a 35 mile mixed city/highway trip that I do pretty often, my highest MPG record was when I had the AC on and used this method!

Once the AC has brought the cabin down to a reasonable level and it cuts back on the amount of power the compressor consumes (a big advantage of the Prius system), thing really aren't that bad. This is why there isn't a huge hit on long distance highway driving, and there is an enormous hit on really short city driving. Once I moved such that I was 3 miles away from work, I stopped using the AC altogether for my commute, because it would bring my trip MPG down at least 20%. I'm not even kidding...

Anyway, the moral of the story: Use the AC judiciously. Having the CAN-View really helped me understand how to use an energy hog more wisely without a big sacrifice . [/b]
That's consitant with my observations as well and is much in line with how I use the AC.
I prefer to allow stage 1 to complete, and ideally get into stage 4, with the windows down to allow the inside and outside temps equalize. This is usually quite doable since you rarely have to jump immediately on the highway.
I then set the AC temp (before turning it on) to something like 80 or 82...turn it on and put up the windows. That way it runs at a moderate level, cools the temp to 80. Then I'll bump the temp setting down 1 or 2 degrees more and the AC will continue to run moderately until the temp has stabilized. I find that the AC is MUCH more aggressive if the set temp is below 80.
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