Help with debadging

[911turbox50]

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[darelldd]

Originally Posted by hobbit

Basically, whatever the right solvent is will be determined on a noncritical out-of-the-way area in the paint

I rarely need to use anything but my fingers. If you DO need to get stickum off, there's no mystery. Use WD-40 or kerosene (basically the same thing). Will not harm the paint, and will remove all stickum. Just clean it all off when done, and re-wax. Will be as good as new, if not better.

Originally Posted by hobbit

Cool. My hood wasn't quite as warm yesterday, but I did manage
to get all the stickum cleanly off. A little 95% isopropyl did
help soften the stuff and let it "ball up" a little better.
Nothing any stronger would truly leave the paint alone.
.
_H*

Not true. Depending on what you call "stronger."

[racerbob]

This works for me. Not quite large enough to completely cover the holes on one side as you can see in the picture. Also the L & R sides will have to go in different spots to disguise the holes. You can't see both sides at the same time anyway.
Toyota # PTR26-17640

[Ct. Ken V]

Hi, guys & gals,

Well, if you're going to remove the HSD/hybrid badge on the fenders (whether you have holes underneath or not), another choice besides the TRD badge above would be to go to your local Lexus dealer & get 2 of the VSC (vehicle stability control) stick-on emblems/badges (I'm not sure, however, if they are big enough to cover the holes you guys have on the '07's & '08's).

Ken (in Bolton,Ct)

[jukeboy]

I used a steam gun and some hemming thread/fishing line as well as a type of wedge as suggested by evnut.com (akin to your chisel method); didn't know there was a tab on the fender and took an inordinate time to figure that out, but discounting that misstep it could've taken all of under 20 minutes in the comfort of my garage. I left the HSD emblem on the hatch:

Originally Posted by Rokeby

By way of prep, I read debadging threads on at least four different marque
forums. The recommended process ranged from a combination of heat guns
and various petrochemicals to just grabbing the badge with your fingernails
and pulling. I figured there was a simple way somewhere in the middle of
the range.

I had the three rear hatch badges off in 10 minutes. It was so easy as to
approach being trivial. You'd have to be really ham-handed to screw it up.
Just remember to get the badge and hatch quite warm.

[hobbit]

I've added a second chapter to my de-logoing saga, sort of
following its development here. I expect that eventually there
will be a third.
.
_H*

[hobbit]

I finally finished the job:
.

.
Details/procedure are here.
.
_H*

[Neicy]

That came out great. I'll give you some leftover black pipe insulation to replace the orange if you want to coordinate your colors.

[chrisspaulding]

.
Great project!
A lot of hard to reverse work though.

Couple questions:
Why not buy car body graphic black vinyl and stick it on (would have been almost exact same look), then peel it off when you changed your mind?
Why did you want a triangle-like shape instead of straight?
.

[darelldd]

Nice work! This is by far the best part of the project:
http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/logos/deelie.jpg

when I had my logo bits off, I so desperately wanted to figure out what to put back to cover up those holes. Of course I ended up with putting the stupid chrome logos back, but not before lots of head scratching. I think the nose really needs a pig's snout to do it justice. IF they'd just lined the mounting holes up horizontally, we could have worked with that... but no... nobody was looking out for us!

I don't even remember what is holding my emblems on any longerl. I think I just used a dab of silicone on the studs. One day I'll probably take a look and see them missing. Then I'll get back to this project. Don't worry - I'll use a big red flame on mine so it doesn't look like I just ripped off your idea.