Has anyone installed the enginer PHEV?

[Flying White Dutchman]

Originally Posted by Florian_steiper

Hello,

The Manual is available for download from the enginer wiki-page....

OK, I am too new to post links... great..

www dot eaa-phev dot org slash wiki slash Enginer

you'll figure it out

ciao

Florian

copy past?
Enginer - EAA-PHEV

[ericbecky]

I will talk with them about a group buy at Green Drive Expo.

Also I think we may see some video/interview from the event as well

[Flying White Dutchman]

hi becky

maybe you can aks some questions for me?

if so i will post a list with things

[SageBrush]

I want to know where the battery supplies are from. This company's origins in Detroit just have me imagining all sorts of things.

[ericbecky]

Pat,
You are now officially in charge of the list of questions.
If you can keep them in one post, that'll make it easier for me to copy/paste.
Fire away.

[Flying White Dutchman]

pat???
i am not from australia

[mrbigh]

Originally Posted by Flying White Dutchman

pat???
i am not from australia

He is not becky either..................

[ericbecky]

lol.
Sorry, Flying White Dutchman.
Was not paying close enough attention.

And mrbigh is correct.. my name isn't becky... it's Eric.

Soooooo now that that's all cleared up, Flying White Dutchman, can you please start the list?

[Flying White Dutchman]

well.. whatever


Here my peace of text about The Enginer PHEV kit
-----------------

All Prius PHEV conversions to date, whether home-brewed, made by small outfits, or by large corporations, rely on changing the reported SOC. This can be by spoofing with a dummy SOC message immediately after a genuine one, or by replacing the genuine SOC message completely, or by raising the OEM battery pack voltage to the point that the OEM battery ECU artificially raises the reported SOC in its SOC drift mode (as in any CalCars type approach)

The Enginer PHEV kit applies a DC-DC converter output across the OEM
pack, with the output limited to a maximum of 240v or 12A whichever
comes first if my info is correct.

This avoids the much greater inrush currents that any
contactor approach causes, slapping a higher voltage pack across the OEM pack periodically. But it does limit the injected power to the output of the Enginer DC-DC converter, recently claimed on PriusChat as 2,880
watts.

According to the posted manual i don't see that the HV wire's go to the hall effect sensor ( current sensor ).
maybe this is because of the low current that go's to the HV battery?

This approach relies on the 12A that is injected, being greater than
the current draw that the Prius is taking out, in order that there is an
excess of charging current and so the OEM pack voltage may rise up to
the ~240v level where the required SOC drift effect occurs.

During steady state highway driving this is a common state where the current into/out of the Prius pack varies from second to second by only a small amount, often less than + or - 5A or so.
In these circumstances the 12A injected is ample to raise the OEM pack voltage to near 240v which causes the battery ECU to issue a high SOC which in turn makes the HV ECU draw much more electric power from the battery which offsets gas use and increases mpg. All precisely as claimed.

Now in low speed EV use, two different situations apply.
The first is in city traffic with lots of start/stop at traffic lights,
traffic jams etc, where the car is often stopped or moving very slowly.

Here the average current drawn may well be less than 12A and so the
Enginer DC-DC converter's 12A can again raise the OEM battery voltage up to 240v and allow continued EV use.

The second is on quiet streets with no start/stops where a steady
current is being drawn at a steady speed. What is crucial here is the
amount of energy needed to sustain this mode.
There are enough PHEV users who can attest that they can, if driving
carefully under ideal conditions below 30mph achieve 160 watt-hours/mile (99 watt-hours/km) That is an average power consumption of ~4.8kw = 20-23amps

Therefore in order to achieve continued EV operation you need to inject
at least 4.8kw. If you do not, the current drawn exceeds the current
injected and the pack voltage decays and so the SOC drift effect does
not occur and the battery ECU instead does its normal mode of coulomb
counting until it decides you are down to 40% SOC or so and shuts off EVmode and starts the ICE charging.
It is unaware of any extra pack capacity so counts down assuming only the OEM pack capacity exists.

Note that there are a number of PHEV enthusiasts who claim that even
higher power is needed to sustain practical EV. Early on CalCars
reported that you should aim for 40A if you truly wanted to avoid
dropping out of EV mode.
So my figure of 20A (4.8kw) is very conservative and requires very careful driving. I have tried on quiet roads to remain in EV mode with an average of only 12A and can only say it is extremely difficult.
I do not think it is possible even under ideal flat no wind no traffic conditions to sustain 25mph with just 12A.

It is more reasonable to expect a shorter period of EV, then a drop out
during which the 12A can cause a recovery and then a return to EV at
some point later, this cycle repeated until the pack is exhausted. If
this is acceptable then expectations will have been met. But the idea of
remaining in EV for the full distance without the ICE starting is not
realistic.

This should not be taken as a purely negative description of the Enginer
kit. It appears a very well thought out design that is excellent value
for money and with the minimum of installation complexity.
Particularly on highway mixed-mode use and city stop and go, it should perform just as claimed.

[ericbecky]

Right now Jack and his crew are busy getting ready to come to Hybridfest Green Drive Expo so you probably won't hear anything from them until after the weekend.

I did get a message stating they have a new web site, though.

Enginer | Hybrid Plug In

I don't have time to check it out right now, but I'll read through it later.

Enjoy!