Enginer PHEV automatic over/under voltage protection

[Daox]

Originally Posted by brad_rules_man

Yeah, I have a few thoughts. I had to re-read everything twice to make sure I was absorbing everything!

So, if arduino can only be on if the car is on, so do you need it while charging? I hope I didn't over simplify it. I see everything your doing and it seems like it would be an excellent set up for driving when you cannot hear it, and see the led. If it were me, I would hope it wouldn't trip very often. So I would just set it up to shut off for 30 minutes and balance out/cool off. Then it should be fine when it comes back on and if it isn't, it will trip again. hehe

The arduino will definitely be on while charging. In the original setup (with no dc to dc converter disconnect), I had planned on powering the arduino with a wall wart type power supply. When you plug in your extension cord to the car it will power up the wall wart which will power the arduino. Once the arduino boots, it will close the relay and allow 110V power to the charger. However, when the car is on, the arduino will be powered off the car's 12V.

However, Now I'm realizing that this was for charging, because the other sounds could be interfering with that microphone circuit. So, ... I just wonder if it'd be better to find a way to trigger the necessary relays by opening up the balancer and find a way to unsolder the speaker and find a way to make that current trigger the relay... or maybe hard wire it to the microphone wire giving it some sort of direct input? I know it sounds ridiculous especially with so many balancers.

The thought had occurred to me. Also, Eric posted the same concern. The VOX circuit does have an adjustment potentiometer on it to adjust sensitivity. This will need to be adjusted for it to work properly and should filter out any quieter noise the VOX may pickup. However, I have also programmed logic into the arduino to identify beeps versus normal noise. A few clunks here or there will just be ignored by the arduino. I'm confident that (perhaps with a little tweaking) it will work not disconnect the pack unless an actual alarm is going off.

You could crack open the balancers and tap directly into the alarm signal that goes to the speakers, but I'm trying to design this so you don't have to cut any wires or take anything apart. It'll just be a few connectors that go between other things in the kit.

You may never ask for my thoughts again, lol they are very scatter-brained.

Just keep us in your train of thought. You probably have way better ideas. lol

Haha, not at all. Questions just make me mull things over and rethink things to verify them. Nothing wrong with that at all. It eventually leads to a better design. Case in point, what happens if you have the car on and its charging? The arduino will have 12V from two sources. I'll have to see if this will be a problem.

[dan2l]

Originally Posted by Daox

The arduino will definitely be on while charging. In the original setup (with no dc to dc converter disconnect), I had planned on powering the arduino with a wall wart type power supply. When you plug in your extension cord to the car it will power up the wall wart which will power the arduino. Once the arduino boots, it will close the relay and allow 110V power to the charger. However, when the car is on, the arduino will be powered off the car's 12V.



The thought had occurred to me. Also, Eric posted the same concern. The VOX circuit does have an adjustment potentiometer on it to adjust sensitivity. This will need to be adjusted for it to work properly and should filter out any quieter noise the VOX may pickup. However, I have also programmed logic into the arduino to identify beeps versus normal noise. A few clunks here or there will just be ignored by the arduino. I'm confident that (perhaps with a little tweaking) it will work not disconnect the pack unless an actual alarm is going off.

You could crack open the balancers and tap directly into the alarm signal that goes to the speakers, but I'm trying to design this so you don't have to cut any wires or take anything apart. It'll just be a few connectors that go between other things in the kit.



Haha, not at all. Questions just make me mull things over and rethink things to verify them. Nothing wrong with that at all. It eventually leads to a better design. Case in point, what happens if you have the car on and its charging? The arduino will have 12V from two sources. I'll have to see if this will be a problem.

Hi Doax,
You may need the relay closed before the charger is "Plugged-in". If both are on the same primary power the charger may see the relay open and shut itself down while the arduino is booting.

Thanks,
Dan

[Daox]

I don't quite understand what you are talking about.

As it is now, the 110V relay is normally open. The arduino must power up first in order to close the 110V relay and allow power to the charger.

But, I think you knew that.

[dan2l]

Originally Posted by Daox

I don't quite understand what you are talking about.

As it is now, the 110V relay is normally open. The arduino must power up first in order to close the 110V relay and allow power to the charger.

But, I think you knew that.

Hu Doax,
My error, I was thinking that you put the relay onto the 48 volt lines at the grey Anderson connector.

Thanks,
Dan

[banshee08]

Originally Posted by dan2l

Hu Doax,
My error, I was thinking that you put the relay onto the 48 volt lines at the grey Anderson connector.

Thanks,
Dan

Would be a bad idea to have no load on a charger with it turned on. I know some of the high powered EV car chargers specifically say "DO NOT TURN CHARGER ON WITHOUT A LOAD ATTACHED".. To turn off the charger correctly you will need to cut the AC power.

[Daox]

Yeah, my electronically minded friend warned me not to disconnect the pack from the charger, but rather the 110V from the charger. He knows a lot more than I do about that stuff, so I just listened. He also suggested using the normal power switch signal to power down the dc to dc converter. Its always better to work with low voltage/amperage stuff anyways.

[Daox]

I tested out the VOX circuit tonight. It works well, but will need a little tweaking. I shot some low quality video of how it works. Comments and questions are welcome.

BTW, one of the members on Ecomodder thought it was funny how I was basically making a clapper for my Prius.

YouTube - Enginer BMS - vox circuit demo

YouTube - Enginer BMS - vox circuit demo

[Huibin]

Please see the email replied by Jack:

Hi, Huibin,
You will have the latest Mottcell batteries which has overcharge protection built-in. You shouldn't have to monitor charging any more with this battery cells.

Jack Chen

[Daox]

Has he provided any additional information on this? Cutoff voltages? Its great that the NEW cells have this, but what about everyone else? How new is new? A lot of us recently purchased our kits too. Could you get some of this info for us?

[Daox]

Can anyone verify that the 12V 'ready wire' is actually the activation wire for the OEM high voltage pack's relays? I looked in my pictures last night and I couldn't tell. I'm pretty sure it is. There really isn't a reason to send 12V since most logic signals are 5V.