Help----02 Prius won't run.

baddad457 · 09-07-2007, 04:54 PM

We have an 02 Prius with 97K miles on it. Owned it now for four years. Recently my wife thought she drained the starter battery so she bought a new battery from the local stealership (yea, that's not a misprint) They charged her $160 for the battery (which is about $110 more than I figured for a similar size in other brands) plus another $270 to install it and (I assume) charge the main battery. Car ran fine for three weeks, then suddenly the engine quit while she was driving it. The Stealership, when she picked it up after they "repaired" it, gave her a printout stating that if the problem arose again, they would have to change the "fuel tank assembly" and/or "engine module" (whatever that's supposed to mean, seems to be an open-ended statement telling me they really don't know what the problem is).Those two items were to cost us $1978. We live in south Louisiana and the local Stealership is COURVELLE TOYOTA . Last year they charged her for an oil change ($55) then a week later, the check engine light lit up. When I checked it, I found the(still dirty) oil level a 1/4-1/2" higher than full. Then I noticed a new Toyota oil filter on the engine. They changed the filter, then added a full quart of oil to replace the 1/4 qt that the old filter had in it. Great deal there, 1 new filter & a quart of oil for $55................Anyway, I now refuse to deal with these people and need some one who actually knows their s**t in fixing this POS. It sometimes starts the engine which runs fo a second or two then dies, other times it does nothing when tried. Anyone have ideas ?

Frank Hudon · 09-07-2007, 05:55 PM

give us the codes that they got when they scanned it,it'll give us more to go on. Sounds like the fuel pump relay is going and the there is a service bulliten on the main computer doing what your describing. More info with the codes and you'll get more information from us here on PC

baddad457 · 09-07-2007, 06:22 PM

Codes they listed on the repair invoice three weeks ago were P3191, P3101, P1255.

tochatihu · 09-07-2007, 09:10 PM

I am sure we have not seen the last one of these. Perhaps we can distill down some of the more useful information and make it 'sticky' in CMT?

Here is TSB EG011-03. The code P1255 is not mentioned therein.

[attachmentid=11272]

There is a diagnostic sequence to determine whether to replace ECM, fuel pump relay, fuel tank assembly, or more than one of those. Most often it has been the ECM only. Warranty coverage on the ECM is 80k (36k for the others), so absent any special consideration (see my whining to Toyota comments elsewhere), older vehicles will pay.

If one elects to replace the ECM from salvage vehicle, please note the part # 89661 - 47054. ECMs are 'out there' (ex. 2 on ebay at present) with lower numbers in the last 2 positions. Those will not necessarily have the most recent software, which is apparently what we need from a replacement ECM.

The relay has been DIY replaced and maybe we could dig up the steps.

Not all Toyota shops have proven themselves expert in diagnosing this, despite its commonality. Is there someone near baddad with a shop recommendation for him?

Other conditions may at least contribute to the slow engine start that is generally the root cause. Please make sure that the throttle butterfly is clean of soot and can be moved freely. That there is only a small puddle of oil underneath it in the intake manifold.

AFAIK, no one who ever got the (correct) -54 ECM has ever had a recurrence of the no-start DTC. So the light at the end of the tunnel is definitely switched on.

bwilson4web · 09-08-2007, 01:24 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(baddad457 @ Sep 7 2007, 03:54 PM) [snapback]508736[/snapback]</div>

Quote:

. . . It sometimes starts the engine which runs fo a second or two then dies, other times it does nothing when tried. Anyone have ideas ?
[/b]

I couldn't find the P1255 code in my manual nor searching 'the usual suspects.' But starting problems sounds a little like it could be a sticky throttle plate:

http://priuschat.com/index.php?s=&show...st&p=502123

The other hypothesis is a failing throttle plate position sensor but the code doesn't match. Still, testing and cleaning the throttle plate is an easy step.

Bob Wilson

baddad457 · 09-08-2007, 08:49 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bwilson4web @ Sep 8 2007, 12:24 AM) [snapback]508949[/snapback]</div>

Quote:

I couldn't find the P1255 code in my manual nor searching 'the usual suspects.' But starting problems sounds a little like it could be a sticky throttle plate:

http://priuschat.com/index.php?s=&show...st&p=502123

The other hypothesis is a failing throttle plate position sensor but the code doesn't match. Still, testing and cleaning the throttle plate is an easy step.

Bob Wilson
[/b]

They did that when they had it a few weeks ago. I also removed the Mass Air sensor and cleaned and inspected it. I didn't see the TPS, but I'll look at it today. I also found that how and where they positioned the engine in relation to the hood and cowl wasn't a smart move. Rainwater drains directly onto the valvecover and the way the engine is tilted back, it collects in the valley where the spark plugs are, thus leaking down into the boots and then rusting the plugs themselves. I removed all and replaced them, good thing too, any longer and the pulgs would have fused themselves to the aluminum head from the corrosion.

Joekingiam · 09-08-2007, 02:41 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(baddad457 @ Sep 8 2007, 08:49 AM) [snapback]509015[/snapback]</div>

Quote:

They did that when they had it a few weeks ago. I also removed the Mass Air sensor and cleaned and inspected it. I didn't see the TPS, but I'll look at it today. I also found that how and where they positioned the engine in relation to the hood and cowl wasn't a smart move. Rainwater drains directly onto the valvecover and the way the engine is tilted back, it collects in the valley where the spark plugs are, thus leaking down into the boots and then rusting the plugs themselves. I removed all and replaced them, good thing too, any longer and the pulgs would have fused themselves to the aluminum head from the corrosion.
[/b]

Hi, I think "stealership" is a very accurate title. If your handy mechanically I can give you something to check real quick. You said you cleaned the Mass airflow sensor. Are you sure you did it correctly?
You need:
rubbing alcohol
Cu-Tips
10 mm socket
Phillips
Patience and gentleness.

Remove air cleaner assembly with the 10 mm. The wire plug in front is for the airflow sensor. Remove the sensor assembly with the phillips, inside you'll see one small sensor tip and a little deeper off to the inside you'll see two thin wires about 1/4". Carefully with cu-tips and plenty of alcohol, gently wash and rub these 3 sensors several times. Be very careful to use use minimul pressure, if you break you buy.
Re-assemble and see if it helps.
Joe

baddad457 · 09-09-2007, 03:40 PM

Update-- Left the Auxillary battery unplugged last nite. Plugged it back in, engine warning light now off, but still won't start. Funny thing now, is it was showing 3/4 tank fuel yesterday, now showing empty, even after pouring in 5 gallons fuel (it's full now, to the top) so apparently the fuel gauge is wrong, both before and now. Main battery warning symbol still lit up. Is there a service port in the fuel line? I cannot find one.

bwilson4web · 09-10-2007, 03:51 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(baddad457 @ Sep 9 2007, 02:40 PM) [snapback]509662[/snapback]</div>

Quote:

Update-- Left the Auxillary battery unplugged last nite. Plugged it back in, engine warning light now off, but still won't start. Funny thing now, is it was showing 3/4 tank fuel yesterday, now showing empty, even after pouring in 5 gallons fuel (it's full now, to the top) so apparently the fuel gauge is wrong, both before and now. Main battery warning symbol still lit up. Is there a service port in the fuel line? I cannot find one.
[/b]

When you go to start, it doesn't turn over the ICE?
How many miles? (If less than 100,000 miles, it may be time to tow it to dealer for hybrid repair.)
Do you have a scanner? Do you have an interest in doing it yourself?

Bob Wilson

baddad457 · 09-10-2007, 05:56 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bwilson4web @ Sep 10 2007, 02:51 AM) [snapback]509940[/snapback]</div>

Quote:

When you go to start, it doesn't turn over the ICE?
How many miles? (If less than 100,000 miles, it may be time to tow it to dealer for hybrid repair.)
Do you have a scanner? Do you have an interest in doing it yourself?

Bob Wilson
[/b]

No scanner. Car has 95K miles on it. The engine was starting for a second or two, but not at all now. Been playing with it for a few days now. I've done engine swaps and rebuilds, doing that for years, I'm highly mechanically inclined.

09-07-2007, 04:54 PM	#1
baddad457 Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 11 My Car: Package: Nominated 0 Times in 0 Posts TOTM Awards: 0 Friends: 0	We have an 02 Prius with 97K miles on it. Owned it now for four years. Recently my wife thought she drained the starter battery so she bought a new battery from the local stealership (yea, that's not a misprint) They charged her $160 for the battery (which is about $110 more than I figured for a similar size in other brands) plus another $270 to install it and (I assume) charge the main battery. Car ran fine for three weeks, then suddenly the engine quit while she was driving it. The Stealership, when she picked it up after they "repaired" it, gave her a printout stating that if the problem arose again, they would have to change the "fuel tank assembly" and/or "engine module" (whatever that's supposed to mean, seems to be an open-ended statement telling me they really don't know what the problem is).Those two items were to cost us $1978. We live in south Louisiana and the local Stealership is COURVELLE TOYOTA . Last year they charged her for an oil change ($55) then a week later, the check engine light lit up. When I checked it, I found the(still dirty) oil level a 1/4-1/2" higher than full. Then I noticed a new Toyota oil filter on the engine. They changed the filter, then added a full quart of oil to replace the 1/4 qt that the old filter had in it. Great deal there, 1 new filter & a quart of oil for $55................Anyway, I now refuse to deal with these people and need some one who actually knows their s**t in fixing this POS. It sometimes starts the engine which runs fo a second or two then dies, other times it does nothing when tried. Anyone have ideas ?

09-07-2007, 05:55 PM	#2
Frank Hudon Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 4,144 My Car: Package: Nominated 0 Times in 0 Posts TOTM Awards: 0 Friends: 0	give us the codes that they got when they scanned it,it'll give us more to go on. Sounds like the fuel pump relay is going and the there is a service bulliten on the main computer doing what your describing. More info with the codes and you'll get more information from us here on PC

09-07-2007, 06:22 PM	#3
baddad457 Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 11 My Car: Package: Nominated 0 Times in 0 Posts TOTM Awards: 0 Friends: 0	Codes they listed on the repair invoice three weeks ago were P3191, P3101, P1255.

09-09-2007, 03:40 PM	#8
baddad457 Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 11 My Car: Package: Nominated 0 Times in 0 Posts TOTM Awards: 0 Friends: 0	Update-- Left the Auxillary battery unplugged last nite. Plugged it back in, engine warning light now off, but still won't start. Funny thing now, is it was showing 3/4 tank fuel yesterday, now showing empty, even after pouring in 5 gallons fuel (it's full now, to the top) so apparently the fuel gauge is wrong, both before and now. Main battery warning symbol still lit up. Is there a service port in the fuel line? I cannot find one.