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Headlight symbol says headlights on - but no headlights on 2006 Prius

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by jim2006Prius, Jul 29, 2014.

  1. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    Hi Prius members,

    Went out with family for a bite with a few hours of day light left for the day. Started my 2006 Prius to head home and I noticed both head lights on my 2006 Prius would not go on. Luckily I was only a couple miles from home. The headlight symbol on the dashboard shows the lights are on when I turn the lights on, but the headlights do not go on. No high beam - No regular beam. I believe the yellow parking lights are on.

    The only other thing I can report is I had the spark plugs changed a week earlier at 120,000 miles and the mechanic put in NGK instead of the Denso that was the part he removed. My Prius seemed to struggle more
    with these new plugs or rev more and I am not sure if this affected things, but thought it was worth noting.
    I replaced one of the head lamps within the last 6 to 8 months that was going on an off, but this time
    it's different with both headlights out at the same time.
    Thanks in advance
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Check the 40A HEAD MAIN fuse and the H-LP relay.

    The 40A HEAD MAIN fuse is one of the fusible links located within the ~5" long clear/whitish plastic box which is in the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter. The H-LP relay is also in the main relay/fuse box.
     
  3. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    Thank you Patrick. Was wondering if a picture is available of this area which sounds like is under the engine hood.
    I looked at the manual and the 40A Head Main covers the following listed below. If wireless key entry works and I can lock doors with
    my key fab, which the 40A appears to also handle, does this mean it may not be the 40A Main Head fuse?

    Automatic Light Control
    Headlight
    Headlight Beam Level Control
    Light Auto Turn Off System
    Smart Key System and
    Wireless Door Lock Control (w/ Smart Key System)
    Theft Deterrent
    Wireless Door Lock Control (w/o Smart Key System)
     
  4. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    is the main relay/fuse box in the engine compartment?
     
  5. JimN

    JimN Let the games begin!

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    yes
     
  6. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Fuse location/function should be on the inside of the fuse box cover.

    SCH-I535
     
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    What manual are you looking at? I am looking at the Prius Electrical Wiring Diagram which shows the power flow from the 40A HEAD MAIN fusible link to the H-LP relay. That relay then feeds the individual fuses for each headlight and the DIM relay (for halogen headlight-equipped models).

    The Smart system and door lock circuits are not fed by this fusible link.

    Again, the fusible link and the relay are located in the main relay/fuse box which is next to the inverter, behind the driver's headlight assembly.
     
  8. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    Hi everyone - I popped the hood and removed the fuse over. I check the 15 and 10 fuses and they were ok.
    I saw the 6 inch or so clear top white like plastic box. It looks like the cover comes off, but I can see through
    the top. There appears to be a wire in each of the squares - some straight, some look like a partial 1/2.
    I do not see any burned marks. Can I ask what I should be looking for when checking or looking for.
    Does the cover come off? Does each square contain a removeable fuse like the way I am able to pull the
    a 15 and 10?

    To the right of the clear/white long box is a gray square fuse that I believe per the back of the fuse cover
    notes fuse for the HL-P Relay. Not sure what to do with this either. Does it pull out? Does just the cover
    come off. Sorry to be a pest - need help with the details. I posted a picture to help
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The entire fusible link assembly in the 5" long plastic box has to be replaced if any one link has blown. I don't believe the cover is meant to be removed because you can't really do anything once the cover is off.

    The grey square box is a relay, not a fuse. So if the relay map indicates it is H-LP, you have hit the jackpot.

    Now that you've looked at the fusible link and have not found any obviously blown link, the next step is to locate the H-LP relay and have someone turn the light switch on and off while you have a finger on the relay. Do you feel or hear it clicking? If no, then either the relay has failed or the wiring to it failed.

    You would then need a multimeter. Pull up the relay, measure voltage at the relay socket and measure the resistance across the relay coil terminals, which will probably be around 30 - 50 ohms. You also can test the relay by applying 12VDC across the coil terminals and measuring resistance across the switched terminals, which should be 0.5 ohms or less. And if you are gutsy, you can short the switched terminals at the relay socket to see if the headlights will come on, although around 10A of current will flow so expect some sparking if you do that. Make sure you are shorting the switched terminals, not the relay coil terminals.
     
  10. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    Thank-you Patrick. I think I got it now. I will post what I find out after exploring.
     
  11. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    Update - I received my multi-meter and tested the relay. It clicks when 12 volts was applied and when I tested the with the multi-meter the resistance showed it was working. Not sure what to do now. I am not sure if this would work, but I had a left over new bulb so I plugged it into the silver, square socket and turned on the lights and the new bulb did not light. Not sure what to do now. You may recall both headlights decided to not work one evening at the same time. Any other ideas I should try would be appreciated
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The next step is to remove the H-LP relay again and use the voltmeter function of your multimeter to see whether you have 12V at one of the switched relay terminals. This should be present at all times regardless of whether the car is IG-OFF or the headlight switch position. If not, the 40A HEAD MAIN fusible link has blown.

    If that is good, replace the H-LP relay, turn the headlight switch on, and test for 12V at the four fuses named H-LP. The LO fuses should have 12V when the dimmer switch is at low beam and the HI fuses should have 12V when the dimmer is at high beam. If this does not happen, the DIM relay or its wiring has failed.

    If you have good voltage at the fuses, then all that is left to check is the wiring and sockets for the bulbs themselves. Check for 12V at the bulb socket.

    With all of the 12V measurements, your multimeter negative black lead is connected to body ground and the positive red lead is connected to the point being measured.
     
  13. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    Thank you Patrick. I grabbed my multi-meter, set it to volts and pulled the H-LP relay. The relay is grey and it does not have
    the 30 87, 86, 85 numbers or a diagram on it. It does have the part number. I place the probe on the two odd, wider - | and received 12+ volts.
    When I probe the two equal || points, there is no volts. This is the relay I tested yesterday with that clicked and the ohm test was ok.
    What I did net was I removed the DIM relay below the H-LP relay and I did the same test of probing . My meter showed no volts when I tested
    the -| and the ||. I believe I then put the light switch on and tried again with no volts to the DIM relay.

    I have to test the fuses as you suggested but in the mean time I have a question on how do I test the bulb socket? Is this the silver square piece that locks over the bulb? As you may recall my light suddenly stopped working but the dash board shows they are on and the blue high beam icon comes on when I put the high beam on. So basically the dash board looks like everything is working, but there are no head lights. The amber lights come on to the sides of the head lights and the parking lights come on and the fog lights work.

    Sorry to bug you with this same problem, but hopefully other will benefit from this post.

    Thanks,

    Jim
     
  14. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    I went back to completed the fuse test step. First I test if my multi-meter was working property by putting a AAA battery to it and it read 1.62 volts which is good.

    I pulled the first two 15 AMP low fuses and turned the headlight switch to the on position. The dash board low beam icon was lit and the amber side lights were on, but not the head lights. I put the probe on each side of the fuse holder and the meter stayed at 0.00 or no power. Basically I put the red and black probe on each side of where the fuse metal tabs plugs or pushes into.

    I removed the two 10 AM high beam fuses, pushed forward the column switch so the high beam icon was now lit on the cask board. Like the other two fuses, these two fuses show no power. I removed the horn fuse and the probe showed 10 AMPs of power, which I did not make sure I was testing the fuse sockets correctly and the multi-meter was working.

    I went back to the DIM relay which is light blue and made sure the head lights were on. I tested the socket where the relay plugs into the -| pattern and was no power. I tested also the shorter || pattern and this showed no power. I then turned on the high beams and the same, no power to the DIM relay.

    It seems from the Patrick's last post that this points to the relay and it's wiring. I would tend to think wiring since there is no power.
    Any advise at the point would be appreciated and I am concerned this is now a difficult fix.
    The only thing that troubles me is I recently had the spark plugs replaced a few weeks before the head lights went out.
    The dealer put in a NGK brand and DENSO plugs were the original equipment that was removed during the change.
    The moment I drove the car, my Prius seemed to struggle and whine and I was wondering if the spark plugs could make a difference
    and cause an electrical issue. Not trying to blame anyone - just the car did not seem right after the spark plug change and now this happened.

    Any advise at this point would be appreciated.
    Thanks in advance.
     
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Jim,

    To be clear about which relay terminals you are measuring 12V at, you need to pull the relay again, and use the ohmmeter function. Find the two terminals that are connected to the relay coil. Those two terminals will measure ~50 ohms or so. Then you will know the other two terminals are the switched terminals. They should measure infinite resistance.

    Then to test the relay, apply 12VDC across the relay coil terminals and measure resistance across the switched terminals. The measurement should now be 0.5 ohm or less after you account for resistance in the meter leads.

    Now that you know what the various relay terminals do, you need to check for 12VDC at one of the switched terminals within the relay socket. If you don't find this then you know that the circuit will definitely be dead downstream from that point.

    So then you have to go upstream to see where you can find 12V power and where it goes away. At that point you will have found the problem.

    The spark plugs have nothing to do with this issue.
     
  16. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    Hi Patrick,

    I will try to digest your latest instructions but I think I am starting to get in over my head.
    I think you would like me to remove the H-LP relay, which is the only relay I received power from and test
    where the relay plugs in with the Ohm resistance function. Going from you previous post, you felt it was
    the DIM wiring, based not seeing power at the fuses, or where the DIM plugs in. Being more visual, I have to
    try a little harder than most to understand. I will keep trying as I feel I got pretty far for a newbie.
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Actually, I would like you to remove the H-LP relay and use the ohmmeter to measure resistance of the terminals that are sticking out of the relay's bottom. You are measuring resistance of the relay. You are not measuring resistance at the relay socket.

    The point of doing the resistance checks is to figure out where the relay coil terminals and the relay switched terminals are located. Once you understand that, then you can figure out the mating terminals within the relay socket. That will allow you to determine whether you have 12V at one of the switched terminals within the relay socket.

    Do not use the ohmmeter to measure resistance in the relay socket unless you are sure that no voltage is present. The socket probably has 12V power at one terminal. You may damage or destroy the ohmmeter if that terminal and ground are contacted with the ohmmeter leads.
     
    #17 Patrick Wong, Aug 16, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2014
  18. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    Hi Patrick,
    Sorry for the delay. I pulled the relay and put the meter to the ohms area where there were 5 choices.
    The two equal prongs had a reading on 20K and 200 which was ,173 at 20K and 175 on 200.
    The reading at 200 bounced from a reading of 175, 173 and 169 on different reads. These are the two equal prongs
    the have the || pattern. On the other set of metal prongs of the relay where the pattern was different in size and
    direction where they looked like -| the reading was always 1
     
  19. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    What you are calling "two equal prongs" are the relay coil terminals with a resistance of ~175 ohms. The other two terminals are the switched terminals which are showing infinite resistance.

    Now that you have identified the terminals on the H-LP relay, map that identification to the relay socket. Then measure voltage from each of the relay socket switched terminals, to body ground. You should be able to measure 12V from one of the terminals, to body ground. If you don't find that voltage, then you know the 40A HEAD MAIN fuse within the fusible link box has blown.

    If you are able to measure 12V, then use a paper clip to short the two relay socket switched terminals together. Then see if the headlights will turn on, you may need to turn the headlight switch on.

    If the headlights work now, then the H-LP relay apparently has failed. You can test the relay by applying 12VDC to the relay coil terminals and measuring resistance across the switched terminals. That resistance should become 0.5 ohms.
     
  20. jim2006Prius

    jim2006Prius New Member

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    Thanks Patrick. There are a total of 4 metal terminals on the bottom of the H-LP relay. When I use the -| symbol, I am identifying the two
    terminals matching terminals on opposite ends where one is sideways and the other is straight so they look like - |

    The opposite the - | are two terminals are equal, meaning they look like a regular plug so the look like | | . These two terminals had the -175 ohms reading. The two terminals that are - | had no reading or as you pointed out, infinite resistance.

    From my previous post on July 29th, when I tested the sockets the 4 terminals of the relay plugs into, the odd shaped - | side of the relay has 12+ volts and the other two equal terminals showed no volts.


    So basically

    The shaped - | terminals on the relay had no resistance, but had 12 volts of power at the socket where the relay plugs into
    The | | equal shaped terminals have -175 Ohms of resistance and no volts at the socket where the relay plugs into


    Tried my best to describe the 4 metal terminals coming from the bottom of the relay I called prongs in my previous post.


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