'06 Oil / Motor noise question

I should also have warned you not to let the dealer just replace the bearing shells. This would quieten things down by reducing the bearing clearances, but would not address any damage to the crankshaft journals, cylinder bores/piston rings, and camshaft ware. Problems with these will show up later, but show up they will. Take a look at the first picture then the third picture down. The first is the shell damage the second is damage to the crankshaft journal.

Images for big end shells after running without oil

John (Britprius)

 

Did you look at the link I just added.

John (Britprius)

 

Good to hear things are resolving for you.

I can't help speculating what went on behind close doors, to take them from engine replacement (petrol motor ) to car replacement...: HOPEFULLY they don't try to pass off your car to some unsuspecting victim. If you take them up on the offer, it'd be interesting to follow your old car, if that's possible.

 

I feel you are now getting somewhere towards a happy outcome. Like you I would be wary of a new car with payments unless they really do make an offer you can't refuse.
The offer of a new engine and extended guarantee to me sounds a good outcome as this should give you trouble free motoring for the next three years taking you into the territory of the next generation Prius with a car that should still have good sale ability.
Please keep us informed of how things go whatever your decision.

John (Britprius)

 

I personally would reject any offer of a new car, I would insist on the offer of a new engine and 3 years warranty.

 

I would love to see inside the oil filter I bet it is crammed with metal particles. The metal carrying oil would also have to pass through the oil pump on it's way to the filter. What a mess.

John (Britprius)

 

that's great news, and a whole new level of respect for the service manager. all the best with your decision!

 

The more I think about, the more I smell a rat with this new car offer.

From personal experience with a new car lemon (extensive body work was done due to damage in transit). We traded early and all we really garnered was slightly improved courtesy and a marginally better trade in value. I'm sure they did the minimum patch up and passed on the "near new gem" to some poor shmuck.

I think you should stick to your guns on the engine replacement. And even that is a massive imposition, a patch up of THEIR mess.

 

Unless you were planning to buy a new/used car, or the current Prius was on its last leg, then the dealer's offer to "help" you out with a new purchase might very well be in your favor. I define "help" as a Prius for many thousands below invoice, complementary floor mats, extended warranty paid by them, and the pre-paid service only costing you 10%, because:
1) They screwed up.
2) The dealer wants you to spend tens of thousands of dollars, to buy a new Prius, to rectify their $1613 mistake (cost of replacement short block engine, excluding additional parts and the labor costs; LINK).

Lets not forget that the dealer gets quite a lot of money if they move a certain number of cars, which is why they might be willing to let a car go for a lot less than invoice, especially if they are super close to hitting the threshold, to get the big pot of money from the manufacture (small loss for a big gain).

KBB.ORG says your 2006 w/ 147k miles in my area is worth $6192 to $8899 at the dealer, with a fair purchase price of $7546.
Private party is $5521 (good condition), $5758 (very good condition), and $6116 (excellent condition).
A fair price for a new 2014 Prius Two, from KBB, is $27,050.
$27,050 (new replacement) - $8899 (maximum dealer price of your used Prius) = $18,151 (excluding taxes, increased insurance costs, zero interest b/c of 0% interest on OAC).

So who is really doing who a favor? Sorry vespaguy, we screwed-up, but want you to pay $18k+, to fix our $2k+ mistake. I bet they wouldn't even bother replacing the engine either, even with a used engine. Off to auction and write the difference of sale minus value, on their taxes. Lets add insult to injury when you factor the depreciation that KBB has computed (LINK); don't know what their assumptions are, but this is just a gauge to give you an idea:
DEPRECIATION: $-11,091 (year 1), -$2,975 (year 2), -$1,894 (year 3), -$1,623 (year 3), -$1,623 (year 4), -$1,623 (year 5).
Total Depreciation at end of 5 years: -$19,207

Good luck.

 

A short engine block does not rectify likely damage to the valve gear and cam bearings running with no oil risks damaging all moving parts lubricated by the oil.

John (Britprius)

 

As a minimum, the OP should get an used engine with some short warranty. Asking for brand new shiny engine with long warranty is too much and not going to happen.
Alternatively, the dealer could buy it back at fair value.

 

[/QUOTE]
A short engine block does not rectify likely damage to the valve gear and cam bearings running with no oil risks damaging all moving parts lubricated by the oil.
John (Britprius)[/QUOTE]

That explains the $5k difference Camelback Toyota lists for a Short Block Engine ($1613) vs Engine ($6853).

Hope OP reports back what he ultimately pursued: engine (hopefully new) or buying a new car.

 

Most certainly yes. The oil pump pumps unfiltered oil to the oil filter that you know was full of metal particles, and consists of steel rotors with fine dimensional tolerances"driven directly off the crankshaft" rotating in an aluminium housing. The result is scored rotors and housing with increased clearances.
This means any metal particles passing through the pump will score both the rotors and the aluminium housing allowing oil to leak back through the pump reducing pressure and oil flow rates. The metal contaminated oil that you looked at would be clean compared with what the pump has drawn up and passed to the oil filter, and the oil filter has trapped "why I said I would liked to have seen inside the filter".
As stated previously all moving parts within the engine require good lubrication with clean oil at all times. This means, crank and bearing, pistons,rings,and bores, camshaft, timing chain,and tensioner, variable valve timing mechanism, valve cam followers. In other words the complete engine. Nothing will have escaped the affects of either running without oil, and or running in metal contaminated oil.
This should not affect the transmission apart from possibly discharging the HV battery if the car was driven to far when the engine stopped.

John (Britprius)

 

Happy things worked out for you and the dealer was fair with there response. You should be good for another 100,000 miles of motoring with a little luck.

John (Britprius)