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Prius breaks down 20 days after purchase... help!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by 2007PriusConvert, Jun 9, 2014.

  1. Beachbummm

    Beachbummm Senior Member

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    you can find videos on youtube on how to replace the batter,replace the cooling pump and even rebuild the main battery pack...tons of info out there, good luck
     
  2. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    It would help a lot in trying to determine the true nature of the problem if you posted more details about the exact nature of the incident. I mean details like whether or not you suddenly lost all power, or did it only lose engine power and then run on battery for a while, what was the state of charge (8 bar battery display) doing etc etc. I mean can you give us something to go on besides just who was in the car and where you were going.
     
  3. 2007PriusConvert

    2007PriusConvert New Member

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    Thanks for asking for further details. The battery display did have a full 8 bars when we started out. It broke down just moments after pulling out of the parking lot (within 2-3 minutes of starting the car). I can't say that I was watching the battery display the entire time we were driving but I do know that it was not acting funny until the problem occurred. We got up to speed and the car completely cut off. We lost all engine power and were able to coast into a turning lane. Nearly all the lights on the dash were flashing when this happened and the headlights/dash remained on. I tried to start the car but it just makes a "computer sound" and won't turn on. The "triangle of doom" warning light is on. The electronics (hazard lights, radio, etc) seemed to be working fine but I did not do a quick test or anything to see if the windows appeared to be going slower than normal or anything like that. Now the hybrid battery shows 1 red bar.

    Thanks for the help and input!
     
  4. 2007PriusConvert

    2007PriusConvert New Member

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    Very true. I am still very excited about my Prius and understand it really could happen to any car at any time. It's just frustrating that it happened to me so soon after buying it. Thanks for the input. I am going to take a look at the service manual and peruse the threads to see if it's something that I can handle. For the time being it looks like I've got my hands on some affordable towing to get it back home.
     
  5. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Those are very odd symptoms. I would start by ordering MiniVCI (only $2? so you don't lose much and it takes a while to get delivered). Then I would disconnect the 12V battery and attempt to charge it. If it takes a charge, hook it back up, if it doesn't, get a new one. Make sure the new one is fully charged before hooking it up. Once the new one is hooked up, try it and see what happens.

    I'm trying to think of what (simple) could cause those problems/symptoms. The only thing I can think of is a dead short in the 12V battery but I'm not sure if you would get even the dash lights if that happened. We will know more once we know we have good reliable 12V power.
     
  6. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    His car died while running, a bad 12v won't do that. It could be low on charge, but shouldn't be the reason for his car stopping. It sounds like running out of gas or inverter problem.
     
  7. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    I hear ya. I'm just hoping for something simple and cheap for 'em.
     
  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Best scenario, ran out of gas. Next scenario (not worse scenario) inverter replacement as diagnosed by dealer.

    I think there was a write up from Galaxee or somebody doing an inverter water pump or coolant valve replacement.....had to remove the inverter, had pictures and step by step instructions. Didn't look that hard.
     
  9. 2007PriusConvert

    2007PriusConvert New Member

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    Since I just bought the vehicle and don't know how long or if the 12v has ever been replaced than I am leaning towards replacing the 12v just to have that checked off the list. I've read on here somewhere that you should do this around 100k miles anyway or at least keep an eye on it. I will test it before I drop the $$ on it thought...

    Although I wish it were the case I am fairly confident the car did not run out of gas (unless a fuel pump malfunctioned or the gauge was incorrect). If I remember correctly I was only 200ish miles into my tank.

    I will take a look to try to find the thread you mentioned above. With the miniVCI you mentioned would I have to do a short subscription with Toyota TIS to read the codes and get the repair manuals? Or do you think most codes/processes can be looked up online?
     
  10. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    I have all the codes in my Haynes manual and nearly all are available online. If its an 07 and the 12V has not been replaced, now is a good time to do it but the most important thing is that you have stable and reliable 12V power.
     
  11. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    There was a service campaign for the inverter coolant pump for some VIN ranges. Make sure your car doesn't fit into that range as I believe Toyota was covering that regardless of warranty status.

    When the pump goes and the Inverter starts to overheat, all sorts of things start to shut down - starting with your A/C, then ABS/Traction, etc. May or may not match your experience, but worth checking into after the 12V replacement.
     
  12. 2007PriusConvert

    2007PriusConvert New Member

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    Hello All!. I am sorry that I turned into one of those guys that asks for help and then disappears. I suppose my reasoning is because I am having to cash flow the repairs, the wife and I planned and hosted a wedding at our home, I also had to purchase another vehicle while this Prius sat on the sidelines, and I also must admit that I have been actively avoiding this headache...

    I do have some updates that I've outlined below and would be happy for any continued input...

    I purchased a Mini VCI cable: Google search "Generic Mini VCI J2534". It works fine now, but getting the correct software on my laptop was a beast (I don't claim to be the most tech savvy individual).
    I purchased the Yellowtop Optima Battery and installed it which did not fix the problem. I am still glad that I did this as it probably needed to be done anyway. The 12v battery that I removed was original.
    I did top off the gas tank prior to reconnecting the 12v battery just in case.
    I purchased a salvaged Inverter and installed it last week.

    Now that I have everything put back together to get a reading I am getting fewer codes.
    The codes are...

    POA7A: Inverter Failure
    C1259: HV System Regen Malfunction
    C1310: This one is new. Previously I had C1300. I don't know if this is a clue or not...
    B1421: I have it parked in the shade and I have read that this code is a light/heat sensor that helps control the AC so no big deal here.

    So what are your thoughts? The inverter coolant pump was working as I see disturbance in the reservoir and it did cycle the new inverter fluid effectively. I did bleed the system to rid any air bubbles. When I try to start the car it makes "electronic" sounds then immediately sends me to the red triangle of doom. I can't get it to turn over at all. I realize that the HV battery has been sitting a few months so will my next step be to look at the HV battery specifically? I have a voltmeter and am confident I can follow the threads I have found on here to try to diagnose a bad module. I have also read that the POA7A can be a transmission problem so would that be my next suspect?

    Blown Transmission - No Warranty | PriusChat

    Thoughts? Further tips to diagnose? Thanks in advance for any and all replies!
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. DTC P0A7A is posted by the hybrid vehicle ECU. See if you can get the three-digit info code associated with that DTC from the Mini VCI (Toyota Techstream) screen display. There are many possible info codes; it is possible that a transaxle failure will cause a few of those.
    2. When you were installing the replacement inverter, did you notice any problems with any of the wiring harness connectors?
    3. Your original post #1 reported the existence of DTC C1310 so there is no change regarding that DTC. Regarding DTC C1259 and C1310, those are posted by the skid control ECU and indicate a problem with the hybrid drivetrain (which you already know exists.) Check the orange traction battery interlock switch at the left side of the traction battery. When that switch is installed, you must pivot the lever 90 degrees, then slide the lever down to lock in place.
    4. Put a battery charger on the 12V battery to make sure it is at 100% charge level. Some Optima batteries have been reported to be in a semi-discharged state when purchased.
     
    #33 Patrick Wong, Oct 20, 2014
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2014
    2007PriusConvert likes this.
  14. 2007PriusConvert

    2007PriusConvert New Member

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    Thanks for the response.

    1. I will hook up the Mini VCI tonight to see if I can get additional codes.
    2. Very logical to double check all the connections. It was the first place I went to as well since I saw the same code so I had hoped that I had "missed" a plug on the back of the inverter. I removed the inverter cap and double checked all of my connections. They appear fine. Although now I am considering taking it all the way off and putting it back on just to be sure.
    3. I have the traction battery switch installed correctly. Thanks to these threads I did know to make sure it was correctly put back together as that appears to be a common problem during reassembly.
    4. I did recharge the yellowtop 12v with my trickle charger prior to putting everything back together. It had been sitting for a few weeks so I wanted to make sure there was plenty of juice in it. I will double check the with my voltmeter tonight but I seem to remember it reading 12.8v when I had the key in the ignition and the inverter pump was going. It was over 13 with no load.

    I am concerned that I am not getting any power from my HV battery. It has been sitting for a few months and it had previously had a low charge of 21% when I had paid for the original diagnostics. Could it be that I need to pull that apart to test it? Is there a way to test that I have any power going to the inverter from the HV battery? Would it make sense that these codes would be thrown given that there is no HV power? I have seen several threads on reconditioning the HV battery and believe it to be within my skill set although I would need to purchase the correct charger(s) to attempt this.
     
  15. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Ok that's sounding bad. I don't think the HV battery is supposed to get discharged under about 40%. If it was really that low months ago and has just been sitting then that could really be a problem.

    There is a guy selling fairly a affordable grid charger (can charge the whole HV battery in one go without needing to do it on a per module basis) here these days. If you ask I'm sure someone will point you in the right direction of where to get one.
     
  16. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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  17. 2007PriusConvert

    2007PriusConvert New Member

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    Thanks for the info. I was able to go back out tonight and check the 12 v battery status and the 12v battery readings are as I stated above so it looks like I am good to go there.

    I hooked up the mini vci and if I am reading the freeze frame data correctly I show the subcode under "detail code 1" as 325. I did look this up on another thread and see that it can be ambiguous.
    Diagnostic Trouble Codes P0K92 and P0K7K | PriusChat

    I suppose my next test is to see how my transaxle fluid appears. I will do that in the daylight. Being as I just purchased the car I don't know if the fluid has ever been changed but given the state of maintenance on the rest of the car I would highly doubt that it has been changed. If I have bad/burnt/smelly fluid that will point me towards the transaxle replacement. There was never a noticable whirring prior to the breakdown. I will update when I have an answer on the fluid.

    I will also go back and look at the inverter connections again. I did poke around and all appeared to be connected tightly, but a more thoruogh inspection during daylight is appropriate.

    I know that it could still be the state of charge for the HV battery and am not ruling that out at all. It makes sense that the whole system is out of whack if there is not enough juice to start the hybrid system. If you guys have any more suggestions on which path may be more likely it would be greatly appreciated. Remember that the car won't turn over and it was being driven 50+ mph when my wife lost power.
     
  18. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    P0A7A, 325: the problem is excessive current flowing through the inverter feeding MG1 due to an internal short. That inverter sends an inverter fail signal to the hybrid vehicle ECU which logs that DTC.

    Assuming that you find the wiring harness connectors are all in good condition, the repair manual suggests the following troubleshooting tree:

    5 CONFIRM INFORMATION(EXCLUSIVE INFO 4)

    (a) Connect the hand-held tester to the DLC3.
    (b) Turn the power switch ON (IG).


    HINT:

    DTCs for the interlock switch system are output when turning the power switch ON (IG) with both service plug grip and inverter cover removed.

    (c) Turn the hand-held tester ON.

    (d) On the hand-held tester, enter the following menus: DIAGNOSIS / OBD/MOBD / HV ECU / DTC INFO / CURRENT CODES.

    (e) Select DTC P0A7A to display its freeze frame data.

    (f) Select the item that has INF code 325, 517, or 518 from among INFORMATION 1 to 5, and press ENTER.

    (g) Read EXCLUSIVE INFO 4.

    If you can execute the above, post your results. The value that you get is supposed to make it clear what is the failed component.
     
  19. 2007PriusConvert

    2007PriusConvert New Member

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    Thanks Patrick,

    I was able to do the above and got the code -127. After doing some online hunting I found the diagnostic manual which tells me to "Proceed to A: Inspect Hybrid vehicle assembly". I am going to pop off the inverter cap and make sure that the alternating current insulation bolts are tightened to the specific torque.

    After that I should follow the directions as attached? Does it sound like I am on the right track?
     

    Attached Files:

  20. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Not to me. I see that there is an extremely slim chance that those bolts came out of torque. They are torqued to a certain spec to ensure they can withstand the vibrations of normal driving and beyond. I guess it doesn't hurt anything to check them.