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Installation of Speed Lock Override and Turn Signal Hazard Rear Camera Activation on 2014 Prius

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by dsmithut, Oct 25, 2014.

  1. dsmithut

    dsmithut Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2014
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    Location:
    Salt Lake City, Utah
    Vehicle:
    2014 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I installed cproaudio's TSHRCA+SLO1 today which I purchased from the Priuschat shop.

    TSHRCA = Turn Signal Hazard Rear Camera Activation
    SLO = Speed Lock Overide

    The system is installed and working as designed. I am posting photos here of my installation. It took a total of 5 hours including time to search for info on the internet several times during the install when I had doubts/questions and time to drive to Home Depot to get some additional connectors.

    Here is the material I received:
    IMG_0269.JPG
    The paper included references to two threads on Priuschat for info as well as a request to send private messages to cproaudio if I had any questions. The unit was very well put together. He included 3 pairs of connectors - you'll see later I needed 6 pairs.

    I also purchased the bypass which you can see above the 4 pink male connectors. It is only installed if you want to bypass cproaudio's electronics to essentially reroute the wires back to how they were before the modification for debugging or other reasons.

    I downloaded these for reference:

    Wiring Diagram 1.JPG
    You see on the diagram above that 6 pairs of connectors would be needed to connect the wires behind the radio. The 4 blue T taps are used for the 2 turn signals and for the power connection (12v and ground). 4 Male connectors are also provided to slip into the T taps.

    Wiring Chart2.JPG
    The above wiring chart was a link in one of cproaudio's thread to a spreadsheet on google drive with wiring for various models of cars. The three I've marked in yellow are the only three that are modified in this installation. This one is for 2012 - 2014 Prius - mine is a 2014.

    I used these tools:
    The black tool was used for crimping the wire connectors.
    The red plastic tools were from an auto parts store and are "trim removal" tools.
    The blue tool was used to strip the insulation from the wire ends.
    The socket is used to remove the 4 bolts holding the radio.
    The screwdriver is to remove one screw on the panel to the left of the steering wheel where the switches go.

    IMG_0267b.jpg

    I printed my reference sheets:

    IMG_0270.JPG

    And started to open the dash to remove the radio. First I removed the panel below the dash that has the 12v outlet and my seat heater buttons.

    IMG_0271.JPG

    IMG_0273.JPG

    IMG_0274.JPG

    This area is where the main board will go and it will connect to power on the 12v accessory outlet. You can see a red wire where I had already tapped here to install an extra 12v outlet for my dash cam. This panel was probably the most difficult of all the panels to remove. I ended up pushing it to one side to make more of a gap on the other side to be able to pry up a corner.

    Next I started to remove the trim around the radio.

    You should start with the round piece around the shift knob.

    IMG_0276.JPG

    IMG_0275.JPG
    IMG_0278.JPG
    IMG_0279.JPG
    I did not disconnect the shift knob bezel and laid it to the side.
    IMG_0280.JPG
    There is a connector for the clock set buttons that you disconnect.
    Then remove the panel with the start button - but do not disconnect the start button.

    IMG_0283.JPG

    Each of these pieces are removed fairly easily by pulling on them to release plastic tabs behind them.

    Then you need to remove the kick panels for the driver's side and passenger side.
    First remove the plastic threashold piece:
    IMG_0285.JPG
    Unscrew by hand a plastic nut on the kick panel:
    IMG_0287.JPG
    This is the driver's side kick panel from the back:
    IMG_0288.JPG
    Remove the phillips head screw just below the hood release:
    IMG_0290.JPG

    Prepare to install the switches. Remove the switch panel by pulling on it.
    IMG_0293.JPG
    Choose one of the switch blanks to remove
    IMG_0292.JPG
    Disconnect the switches from the harness and insert them into the hole.
    IMG_0295.JPG

    Remove the radio by unscrewing the 4 10mm bolts - pull straight out. Use a cloth to protect the rest of the dash.

    IMG_0296.JPG
    IMG_0297.JPG

    IMG_0298.JPG
    These are the two wire connector harnesses where you will cut wires and connect the wires from cproaudio's device.
    They are on the top. The 28 pin connector and the 16 pin connector. You don't need to take out all the connectors. There are three connectors that are just interconnected to the back of the radio. Romoving the other harnesses from the radio so you can completely remove it will allow you access to fish wires and work with the wires.

    IMG_0299.JPG

    Cut the wires per the diagram and install connectors. Install a male on one and female on the other end so you could connect them back up if you ever want to disconnect and remove the device. You will need to open up some of the wire jacket around the wires to get access to them.

    IMG_0304.JPG
    Put the device into the space behind the 12v outlet below and fish the group of 6 wires up to the radio. Install the appropriate connectors male or female to each wire per the wiring diagram.
    IMG_0309.JPG
    IMG_0313.JPG
    Connect them per the wiring diagram.
    IMG_0314.JPG IMG_0316.JPG

    On the wire bundle that includes the switches and the yellow and green wires for the turn signal connection - you should pull the green wire out of the bundle - I ended up routing it to the passenger side kick plate to connect it to the right turn signal. I found some documentation online as to which wires were the turn signal wires - I couldn't identify a left turn signal wire on the drivers side with my multimeter (not sure I know how to check really).

    Fish the wires for the switches and the yellow wire from the space behind the 12v outlet - under the steering wheel and to the driver's kick plate.
    I had to remove the small panel next to the gas pedal in order to fish the harness.

    IMG_0310.JPG IMG_0311.JPG IMG_0320b.jpg IMG_0324.JPG
    Fish the green wire from the space behind the 12v outlet to the passenger side and connect it there.
    IMG_0318b.jpg IMG_0325.JPG

    Now time to connect to power. You tap the red wire to the black wire of the 12v outlet. You tap the black wire of cproaudio's device to the white/black stripe wire (this is the ground). I don't have a good photo of this.

    IMG_0323.JPG
    Connect the switches to the harness and install the switches. In my cases the switches were very tight and would not go in all the way but not too bad. I may have to work on that later. The top switch is for the camera. The bottom for the speed lock override.

    IMG_0326.JPG IMG_0329.JPG

    Use zip ties as necessary on wires, reinstall the radio and reassemble all the panels. You're done!

    I tested the system before fully reinstalling all the panels. It worked as advertized. Some thoughts:

    1. Problems could come from not making good wiring connections. One I did had to be redone as it came apart as I was installing the radio.
    2. Reaching your hand down in the space behind the radio and in the space behind the 12v outlet can be tight. I had a couple of scrapes on my hand from it...maybe I should have worn gloves. :confused: Just a little blood in this project.
    3. I put a couple of scratches on the panel holding the 12v outlet - that one is tough to remove. The others were quite easy.
    4. Some of the connectors on the radio were a pain to get off for me...eventually got them. :mad:
    5. After testing, the rear camera is quite effective at seeing cars in your blind spot. However, it is super wide angle and hard to judge distances well. I think I'll get used to that. The rear camera goes on and off quite quickly as the turn signals go on and off - smooth. You can turn the camera on manually with the switch. The switches allow you to disable both the camera feature and the speed override feature if you want.

    I hope this helps others who try to install this product.

    I used information from these sources as well:

    DIY JDM style side mirrors combo lights (Signal+Parking+Courtesy lights) | PriusChat



    Anyone interested in how to bypass the factory navigation speed lock? | PriusChat

    Turn Signal Hazard Rear Camera Activation mod | PriusChat
     
    ftl and cproaudio like this.
  2. cproaudio

    cproaudio Speedlock Overrider

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
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    This would be considered a custom installation. The shop would charge by the hour. For something like this, I would charge the customer more for hunting the wires. If the customer provided wiring code and location, I would charge less since this will save me time. I don't have to hunt for the wires. It could be the difference between a $100 job and a $200 job. You should print out the installation diagram and the wiring info and let the shop decide. If you still consider the quote too high, show them this thread and see they'll lower the price. After all, this thread is basically telling him how to install it. Honestly, I would be OK with paying $100 or less for the install. If no shop will do it less than $100, I would not pay more than $120 for the install. If the shop won't lower their price, ask one the installers if he would do it as a side job. FYI, most shops have a strict conflict of interest policy. pull the installer aside and ask nicely. If you're lucky, the installer will do it for 1/2 to 3/4 of the shop quoted price. Once agreed, do not let the employer know about the deal. It could get the installer fired. Good luck.
     
    Accordlayingkit likes this.
  3. Buzzhead

    Buzzhead Non-Interference w/ devel of pre-Warp civs

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2017 Prius Prime
    Model:
    Prime Advanced
    View attachment 71232
    Connect the switches to the harness and install the switches. In my cases the switches were very tight and would not go in all the way but not too bad. I may have to work on that later. The top switch is for the camera. The bottom for the speed lock override.

    View attachment 71233 View attachment 71234

    ![/QUOTE]
    I'd found that the back body of the switches interfered with the edges of panel. A little bit of filing of the recess allowed the switches to go fully in and pull the blanking plate in that last mm or so.
     
  4. Accordlayingkit

    Accordlayingkit Senior Member

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    Location:
    Colonial Heights, Va
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    Five
    Ok thanks Alot... well said!
     
  5. cproaudio

    cproaudio Speedlock Overrider

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
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    Great write up. I thought I included 6 pairs of connectors. It may have fallen out of the installation accessory bag.
    It got buried somewhere in the speedlock override thread but here is information regarding the switch blanks. Anyone interested in how to bypass the factory navigation speed lock? | Page 10 | PriusChat
     
  6. Accordlayingkit

    Accordlayingkit Senior Member

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    Location:
    Colonial Heights, Va
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    Five
    I think I really like this idea! @cproaudio what do you think an estimated price for install for be on something like this for installing TSHRCA+SLO1? If I decided to get the audio shop that installed my ceiling mount DVD player when I bought the car?
     
  7. Yakuzahi

    Yakuzahi Junior Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Ok, I had some issues but after unplugging it and plugging it back in, everything works fine.
     
  8. The Electric Me

    The Electric Me Go Speed Go!

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    I'm sure this is a great write up.

    It's convinced me that I need to pay people better qualified in this type of work to do it for me.

    I know what I'm good at....and what I'm not good at.
     
  9. Yakuzahi

    Yakuzahi Junior Member

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    I would offer you an installation but your location is Undisclosed.
     
  10. GregP507

    GregP507 Senior Member

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius Plug-in
    Model:
    Plug-in Base
    I'm planning to complete this mod soon. I canceled my order for 2 more external cameras, because I realized that the existing backup cam will do the job by itself. My Prius is a 2012, but from the pictures, the head-unit looks exactly the same.

    I want to incorporate the two existing cams which I have already installed into this mod. One cam monitors the blind-spot under the front bumper, and the other one is for the blind-spot below the passenger door. I'm currently activating them with a two-way toggle switch, which sends power to the camera I want to monitor. The drawback to my current mod is that I have to use the aux video input (labeled VTR) to see the camera images, which is fairly inconvenient. It's also inconvenient to be traveling less than 1 MPH with my foot on the parking brake to allow it to display.

    In it's final form, I'd like to be able to switch on my front and right cameras with the toggle-switch without the above-mentioned restrictions. I don't do any video-switching with my mod, because both video signal wires are combined into a single input. I need to know if I can add both additional signal wires to the signal wire that comes from the backup camera.

    From the wiring diagram, it appears that the module intercepts the vehicle speed sensor, the reverse wire and the brake circuit to activate the backup camera by fooling the head unit into thinking the vehicle is backing up., which turns on the backup camera. I need to determine whether the TSHRCA+SLO1 unit will facilitate the activation of the additional two cameras, displaying the image on the screen whenever I switch on their power. The video lead is not part of the diagram, therefore I'd have to find a way to combine the signal leads from the two additional cameras with the backup camera.

    Would it be simpler to use the speed-lock over-ride in this mod to allow the other mod to work while the vehicle is moving? Does anyone think I can combine the signal wires from the two cameras with the existing backup camera signal wire without signal-conflict? Is it possible to find out whether the backup video signal is turned off by the lack of power being sent to the camera by the head unit? Thanks in advance.