Crossed jumped cables need some guidance

You likely have one or more dead cells on your 12V battery. That's why voltage is so low. If your car starts, the inverter is likely good. Do this for a test, start the car then disconnect the 12v battery. Measure the voltage at the battery cables after its disconnected. You should read about 14V. If not, your inverter is bad. If so, your battery is bad.

Also, measure voltage at the battery after it is disconnected.

Report your results here.

 

Charging the 12 volt battery from an external charger, and check it's voltage under load from a car headlamp bulb will give an indication of it's condition.
The OEM battery does not hold up well when it has been fully discharged. The advice from "Usnavystgc" above is good.
You can use an ordinary flooded battery, but the downside is you are carrying more liquid acid in the rear of the car in case of an accident. A temporary 12 volt battery from a mower or another car carried in the rear of the car connected with jump leads with the OEM battery ground lead disconnected will also prove what is working.

John (Britprius)

 

Well, if I'm reading your timeline correctly you were having issues with starting your Prius and the battery BEFORE the cables got crossed trying to jump it...or you wouldn't of been jumping it to start with?

With a 2005 Prius, that in of itself would lead me to place the battery as the primary suspect.

If it isn't a case where you replaced the battery within the past year or so, I would say almost without hesitation you probably won't be wasting any money buying a new battery, even if (lets hope not) there turns out to be other issues.

The advised tests certainly if executed properly can't hurt. But I'd place a strong bet, replacing the battery is necessary.

Good Luck...I hope it turns out that it is a battery replacement ONLY problem.

 

Definitely replace the dead battery. And count your lucky stars that you didn't fry the inverter.

 

John,

Let us know where you are located so we can guide you to qualified local help if it becomes necessary.

JeffD

 

8.5 volts? Severely discharged 12 volt battery with at least one dead cell. Like the other's, I too suggest you replace the 12 volt auxilliary battery. It sounds like the DC to DC converter is working perfectly due to your 13.5 volt measurement.

A new AGM battery should measure a minimum of 12.8 volts or higher when measured at the posts with no load using a digital volt meter.



If you haven't changed that battery before, take a look at my signature file below. There is a link that explains exactly how to do the swap.

Best of luck to you.

 

1. Replace the 12V battery first.
2. See if the MFD warning icons still appear. If they do then your car has other problems.
3. Use Mini VCI to retrieve the DTC.

 

I don't know what your device does.

The Mini VCI is a Toyota Techstream clone and will provide you with essentially the same diagnostic capability and ability to monitor an extremely large number of operating parameters, as the Toyota dealer techs enjoy.

DTC P2118 means that the throttle actuator control motor has a problem.

Check the 10A ETCS fuse which is located in the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter. "Check" means that you use an ohmmeter to verify continuity of the fuse.

Also, use an ohmmeter to verify the condition of the following fuses: DOME, EFI, AM2, IGN, ECU-IG, GAUGE, OBD.

If the fuses are good, try cleaning the throttle body interior and throttle plate using the minimum amount of throttle body cleaner. The recommended procedure is to spray some cleaner on a clean cloth, and use the cloth to scrub out the throttle body interior and throttle plate. If you follow that procedure you need to remove the air cleaner housing first for access.

If the fuses are good and the throttle body interior has been cleaned, then check the wiring harness connections to the engine ECU. The Toyota repair manual provides specific instructions about what to check. techinfo.toyota.com

Since the root cause of the issue was a botched jumpstart, it is possible that the engine ECU was fried in that process. However that would be an unusual outcome as the engine ECU has not previously been reported as a casualty of an incorrect jumpstart.

Once you have checked the fuses and the wiring harness connections involved, if you still have the problem then you would have to conclude the engine ECU failed given the circumstances of the jumpstart.

 

you may need a trip to the dealer.

 

Or, if your Prius can make the trip, one of the best independent Prius repair facilities is in southern Indiana - Prius hybrids sales and service Scottsburg Indiana

JeffD

 

The mini vci should help get some additional data to assist in diagnosing things.

 

What is the accident history of this car (other than the failed jumpstart)?

Prior to the 12V battery dying, what warning lights if any were on? Were there any problems evident with the car?

Are there any DTC logged by the hybrid vehicle, traction battery, or engine ECUs?

Exactly which warning lights appear now? Take some sharp photos and post.

Can the car be made READY now?
- If yes, can it be driven? Are there any driveability issues that you notice when the car is being driven?
- If yes, measure the voltage across the 12V battery when READY. Is it ~13.8V?

You are right about DTC C0200 pointing to the right front speed sensor. I suggest you remove the sensor and inspect its tip as well as the toothed wheel which is part of the hub assembly.

DTC C1241 means that the skid control ECU sees low voltage from the 12V bus. Relays ABS 1 and ABS 2 are the most likely culprits - unless your car suffered accident damage to the rear of the car, damaging the wiring harness leading to the brake power supply located next to the 12V battery. Or your car suffered a rodent infestation and the wires leading to the skid control ECU (near the steering column) were damaged.

DTC C1310 means that the skid control ECU thinks the hybrid vehicle ECU has a problem.

DTC B2775 means that either the transponder key ECU or the Smart ECU have a problem.

 

For future reference to anyone who owns a Prius, I'd NEVER use the under the hood jump terminal.

It takes a little extra work, but I'd only use a jump-box and preferably one of the newer Antigravity lithium ion XP-1 or XP-3 models, instead of the older lead acid battery based ones.

I'd NEVER let just any ole wrecker drive jump my Prius from their unit.

 

Whats wrong with the underhood jump point? Been using that point to charge my battery for 7 years. That's what Toyota wants you to use and there right. Very safe...Hard to mess it up as there's a red cover on the positive jump point. Your recommending owners dig around in the hatch instead?
99% of them wouldn't be able to get the hatch open with a dead battery anyway.