Do I have a legitimate complaint

Buy a small tyre gauge and check pressure in morning after sitting for night.

 

Not sure what the question is, but you do understand that the pressure goes up when the air is heated, right? I assume that using cold tire pressure is standard since it assumes a relatively common temperature range as opposed to a wider range of temperatures when the car has been driven for various mileages, conditions and outside temperatures. Of course "cold" is really a relative term and also varies somewhat based on many factors including outside temperature, altitude, etc.

If you are asking "how do I get an accurate reading if I have to drive to the station?" the answer is get a tire gauge and measure them at home. Then you know how deficient they may be. Add that amount when you get to the station. If you want to be more accurate, get a gauge AND a pump and check/inflate before leaving home.

 

You had poor bisco thoroughly confused with the 55 mile issue, thanks for clearing that up, lol. Regarding tire pressures: do you have your own air gauge? If not, you really should; gas station gauges are a variable you don't need.

I have a cheapie digital, mainly to verify accuracy of my others, but invariably use a simple stick type guage, that I've had for decades. It's dependable, easy to put on the valve without leakage (some are, some aren't), agrees with the digital, and has sufficient range to measure the (60 psi) temporary spare's pressure as well.

I'd suggest to measure your tire pressures at home, drive to the nearest station, hopefully no more than a mile or two. Recheck pressures at the station: if they've risen you want to overshoot by that factor when adding air.

Pay air is an irritant I can do without. At least in our area, Chevron continues to offer free air. This simple decision has gained them a faithful customer. I'm surprised the competitors don't wake up to this...

 

Buy a 12v pump & keep it in the car. Chances are when you need air in the tires you won't be at a gas station.

 

It doesn't even need to be an electric pump. An ordinary manual bicycle pump -- floor variety, not hand-held type -- works just fine for topping off car tires.

You would normally be adding just a few pounds, so it isn't like the big job of pumping them up from completely flat.

 

I've done the calculations and the Defender will cost nearly the same in terms of $ per mile as the best LRR (Energy Saver A/S assuming both tires last as long as their warranty rating. So like are mentioned above, you will lose mpg with the Defender but because it lasts longer than your OEM tires or even the Energy Saver A/S, you come out close to even. Yes it's sad to see your mpg drop but the cost is near the same. They biggest drawback is the extra fuel burned increases overall emissions.

You bought a quality tire. Don't sweat the mpg number.

 

Legitimate complaint?
I'd have to say no.

Reason to be disappointed?
Perhaps.

You obviously have access to the internet, and this site, so in depth and relatively easy research into tire replacement options were just a few clicks away. The responsibility for knowing the attributes of the product you are purchasing is upon the buyer.

In an ideal world, a dealership/tire store is going to listen attentively and interview you to determine your priorities with a new tire, and then they are going to give you honest and real feedback.

In the real world? Often all the dealership/tire store is going to hear is "I need new tires". Then unfortunately a lot of times the recommendation is based on what they happen to have in stock and readily available as opposed to what might be best in relationship to your needs or desires.

But I'd say your mileage loss is minimal and you have reason to hope that as the tires break in, the MPG's improve. The tire shop may not of sold you the most fuel efficient tires, but whether you communicated to them that was your desire or goal in new tires is unclear.

If you asked the dealership whether Michelin Defenders were "good" tires, their answer may not of either been disingenuous or wrong. They aren't bad tires. They probably offer a variety of compromises and benefits. Again as they break in, and perhaps with "better" inflation I would expect your mileage to improve. My experience with Michelin tires has always been excellent.

If we didn't live in an age where the tools of rapid discovery were so available and accessible I might say you have a better case. But in this day and age, not knowing exactly what a product such as a set of tires offers in ways of performance for your vehicle is really the total responsibility of the purchaser and owner. Unfortunately you can't always trust the entity trying to sell you "whatever" set of tires. Last set of tires I bought, I think I was pretty much an expert on what tires were available and what tires were recommended and why, in about less than an hour of internet research. I personally like real world user reviews, and there are usually tons of them on any popular brand tire.

If you are really upset? Sometimes a legitimate "Tire Shop" will let you trade back in, with a pro-rated penalty. If you research a set of tires you believe you will be happier with? You have nothing to lose in asking what is possible. The risk of course is Low Rolling Resistance or not, the improvement might not be what you expect.

If you were mislead? I don't think it was at a "fraudulent" level. The tires sold to you are perfectly viable, if possibly NOT the absolutely best choice in terms of MPG. You do have options if you determine there is no way you will be happy with what you NOW perceive as less than an optimal tire replacement.

 

He brings up some very good points. Other tires may give better mileage, but might cost more or not last as long.

 

Did you not state that you called the dealer for advise, then you decided to purchase the tires elsewhere where they were cheaper?? How can the dealership be help liable at all If they didn't even sell you the tires? I don't get the complaint.....

And as other folks have mentioned, paramount is pumping those bad boys up...up...up... You will notice a significant difference.

Also as stated if you get 90k miles out of em as opposed to 50-60k miles on more LRR tires you will make out as you won't have to replace them as soon at $400-$600 a set....

 

Ahh, the refreshing voice of solid quantitative data and sound reason. 100k Likes for you!

 

I think you have a legit beef with the Toyota shop's advice. If they knew you had a Prius, they should know you need low-rolling resistance tires to get the best MPG out of the car, but it's not something that's actionable....just FYI that the shop isn't staffed with knowledgeable people.

 

The Defender is listed as LRR though.