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New Traction Battery did not cure my low MPG

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Paul.Ivancie, Jan 22, 2015.

  1. sorka

    sorka Active Member

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    Paul, when what mileage did you have your alignment done? Was the rear toe out and did they use a shim kit to correct it? Or did you do it at the dealer where all they'll do is tell it's not serviceable?
     
  2. Paul.Ivancie

    Paul.Ivancie Member

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    I did three recent four wheel alignments, two before 222K and one at 225K. MrTire did one, and reported that the rear needed adjustment, but they couldn't do it. Then I took it to the dealership, and they confirmed (and shimmed) the rear slight toe-out. The third was also done by the dealer after [my] wheel bearing and brake job. I wasn't about to put on those 90,000 mile tires without the wheels in perfect alignment.
    BTW, I learned my lesson on inflation pressure. On my first set of Michelin Defenders, I relied on the dealership's [factory spec] pressure settings.
    Sure enough, when the tires wore out prematurely, they showed classic signs of underinflation: good tread in the center, both inside and outside edges worn out. That's why I adopted my current +5psi regimen. (40F, 38R)
     
  3. Paul.Ivancie

    Paul.Ivancie Member

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    I got impatient. After glucking in the MMO and Techron cleaner, I drove barely fifty miles before I rolled up my sleeves and swapped out the PCV valve. You were right. That sucker looked like it may have been factory original. I reset the MFD MPG to zero, and noted the oil level to be a quarter of an inch above FULL. (I just had an oil change about 200 miles ago, and the MMO raised the level.) I will report as soon as I get results.
     
  4. Aaron Vitolins

    Aaron Vitolins Senior Member

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    How easy/difficult was it to change the pvc valve? I'm thinking I may need to do it on my 05. Guessing it still has its original one
     
  5. GregP507

    GregP507 Senior Member

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    Whoever invented the phrase, "just try a new battery"
    is probably a millionaire.
     
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  6. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The pcv rarely goes bad, unless you have symptoms, i wouldn't bother with it. If you're changing plugs, then go change it at the same time
     
  7. GregP507

    GregP507 Senior Member

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    A mechanic who recommends: buying new parts until everything starts working again, shouldn't be allowed to pick up a wrench.
    In my humble opinion.
     
  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    A new replacement on a failed part will usually outlast a repair of any type. Labor rates are usually more than 3 times the amount of new parts. I think replacing failed parts with new parts will be more economical in the long run.
     
  9. GregP507

    GregP507 Senior Member

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    The "auto-mechanics guild" will love you. For example, when there's a loose connection, the alternator can't recharge the battery, so the car won't start. Installing a battery usually cures the problem, however, if the alternator was the problem, the customer usually pays for a service call, a new battery, the new alternator and the labor for all of the above. Diagnosing a simple problem and fixing it, isn't as lucrative as just selling the customer new parts until everything works.
     
  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    wrong diagnosis is a completely different thing.
     
  11. GregP507

    GregP507 Senior Member

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    Well if all mechanics were honest, this discussion would be pointless. Unfortunately undercover investigations have repeatedly shown us that they aren't all honest.
     
  12. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The subject of dishonest mechanics don't need to replace parts to make money off you. Dishonest mechanics will tell you the misfire you are experiencing requires an engine rebuild for $2000 and then they replace a spark plug and coil for $40. This has little to do with replacing parts until things get fixed.
     
  13. Yakoma

    Yakoma Active Member

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    In hindsight, it was not that difficult, but I made it so. I've read since then here on PC that the easiest way is to access is to remove the wiper arms and the tray under the windshield. I ended up disconnecting the inverter coolant tank to get my socket wrench in there, but that caused a mess that I won't repeat. Make sure you have a socket or wrench of the proper size (19mm) to remove the PCV. Mine (original) was pretty tough to unscrew but it finally yielded. Torque it back in to the proper spec. Keeping track of all the bolts and where they go is key - there are 8-10 IIRC.

    Oh, and this is a good time to clean the throttle body and the MAF and replace the air filter, if necessary.
     
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  14. Paul.Ivancie

    Paul.Ivancie Member

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    I found it pretty easy to get to the PCV valve without removing wiper arms, etc.
    I based my attack on this post: Prius Spark Plugs and PCV valve - PriusLiftSupports.com
    The dealership has scheduled my plug replacement at 240K miles. I am at 230K, and am thinking of doing it myself a little early, at 235K or sooner.
    Is there any better plug to use than what is in there?
    The recommended plug is:
    Denso (3324) SK16R11 Iridium Spark Plug
    But Denso makes a new plug, called :
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] Quick View

    Denso Iridium TT Spark Plug: IK16TT

    Is this better, or what?
     
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  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I would use the Denso SK16R11 plug which is rated for 120K mile service life. The IK16TT plug does not appear to be any better. Both have the platinum ground electrode which is required for long service life. (Some "performance" iridium plugs lack that platinum ground electrode.)

    I also agree that it is not necessary to remove the engine compartment cowl tray to replace the PCV valve. If some people like removing the tray, no problem as the tray is not that difficult to remove, you get to clean out the accumulated leaves in the tray, and you can inspect some interesting parts like the brake actuator assembly.

    The PCV valve should be replaced at 100K mile intervals, using whatever approach works for you.
     
  16. Yakoma

    Yakoma Active Member

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    Good tip there with the U-joint (or flexible) extension. That would definitely save time and angst. Didn't have one of those.
     
  17. Paul.Ivancie

    Paul.Ivancie Member

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    (02/02/2015) I am much encouraged! After only 30 miles, my MPGs are climbing through the lower forties, territory not seen for the last 3000 miles. Of course, this is strictly anecdotal until I get a few tankfuls under my belt.
    (02/13/2015) Update: 600 miles, 45 MPG (It is winter, and cold), no perceptible oil usage yet.
     
    #37 Paul.Ivancie, Jan 31, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2015
  18. Jmack111

    Jmack111 Member

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    1489209420584.jpg 1489209425180.jpg
    A must have 3 bolt 2 spark plug wire end unplug and 2 bold on relay box lift up cover 10 min job

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  19. Jmack111

    Jmack111 Member

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    VVT Oil Filter? Poor MPG'S?
    https://priuschat.com/index.php?threads/81138/

    VVT Oil Filter? Poor MPG'S? Clean the vvt sensor and filter under it. Remove air box left side 1st Cylinder On front of engine Sensor with wire Side mounting book remove bolt twist and pull out Clean oil off and lube with light oil right below that there is a hex bolt Behind that is a filter that's attached to it made of wire clean with copper brush and carburetor cleaner reassemble had a 50% power boost Ticking when cold when away or pinging when cold no power ip hills 5min fix

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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