Maintenance - What am I missing?

What is CCV? Three way coolant control valve? Are you getting a DTC P1121? If so, you may be w/o cabin heat if the valve gets stuck in the wrong position and doesn't correct itself. So depending on where you live and how cold it gets, this will dictate how soon you get this valve replaced.

You say service personnel, which I interpret as service writer, a person who did not touch your car other than get the odometer reading. Did the mechanic/technician tell you that he indeed do a drain/fill on the inverter when doing the inverter lump recall? It is very unlikely that they did this, as it is easier to pinch off the hoses, resulting in very little coolant loss, when the inverter pump is replaced. The tech has a motivation to do this b/c he can finish this job faster, meaning he can get to the next job faster, which equals more money for him; I believe they are paid hourly and per job. Furthermore, by pinching off the hoses, this means more profit for the dealership as Corporate Toy is reimbursing the dealer for the few quarts of coolant that they are supposed to be using when doing the inverter pump recall, which is supposed to involve a drain/fill.

So, what do you think was really done? Pinch hoses and top off coolant for the inverter, resulting in more profit for dealership and tech. Or did they do the procedure the service book way, resulting in less profit for dealership and tech.

Are you getting a code about the Cat converter/O2 sensor. If no, then leave alone.

No mention of tire rotations? 5000 miles intervals.

Tire pressure. Most go higher than the door jamb sticker of 35/32. These numbers seem to be used: 40/38, 42/40. Ultimately your choice.

Consider adding your location to your profile. Useful to offer service shop recommendations. If paranoid about privacy, the Euro hacks already know your info; lie and put a neighboring city further away, or a region (ie, Southern California).

 

Brake system flush, clean, lube, adjust and repair as required.

 

Very nice work on your part, congratulations. If you were able to accomplish that long list of work without causing a problem, your mechanical ability actually exceeds your self-assessment of your capabilities.

There is no need to be concerned about the air/fuel ratio sensor, the oxygen sensor, or the catalytic converter until a DTC is logged pointing to an issue in the emissions control system.

As previously suggested, the brake system should be inspected for front pad/rear shoe remaining thickness. It would be nice to remove, clean and lubricate the front disc caliper pins to ensure the pads continue to wear evenly.

It would be nice to replace the brake fluid but I would rate that as lower priority. My 2004 has 190K miles and I have not done that - the brake fluid color is still reasonably light amber (vs. black as you would see on most cars after 50K miles).

Inspect the suspension components. The front struts and rear shocks likely need to be replaced and I have posted on how to do both. If you have the proper tools you probably will do a good job there as well.

 

I say replace the 3way coolant control valve when it throws a code (P1121). From what many have written about this valve, it will affect cabin heat (lack of, if stuck in wrong position) and engine warm-up (prolong it if stuck in wrong position).

Assume the inverter coolant was not drained/filled when the inverter pump was replaced. Cost of one gallon of SLLC + 1 crush washer vs inverter/transaxle failure? This maintenance procedure appears to be well w/in your capability. From Art's Automotive (LINK):

The inverter coolant looks pretty good at 30K miles. The ratio and pH both test OK as well. So why are we changing it? Because:
1) Toyota SLLC is just regular ethylene glycol silicate-free premixed coolant with pink dye, and ethylene glycol coolant has had a 2-3 year service interval for as long as I can remember.
2) The components it protects (the HV transaxle & inverter) will set you back about $7000, just for the parts!
3) The idea is to replace the coolant before it goes bad to provide continuous protection.​

If you want to cheap out on this, go back to the dealership with receipt in hand, to find the service technician who worked on you car. Ask him to be honest: did he drain/fill the inverter or just clamp the hoses and top off the inverter reservoir?

Struts/Shocks
If you have no proof the struts/shocks were replaced, they are well overdue. I speak from experience.
Read my post #48 (Hints Regarding Replacement of 2G Front Struts | Page 3 | PriusChat)
Read my post #3 (Replaced Rear Shocks | PriusChat)
After this experience, I'm a firm believer in the strut manufactures claim of 5yr/50,000mile replacement interval (to maintain OPTIMUM suspension characteristics).
Post #6 for parts/prices (2007-2009 Touring,Is steering and handling better than standard prius? | PriusChat)

Member JC91006 knows of a place that has super cheap and fast labor for strut/shock replacement: fronts ($120), rears ($80). Additional Front/Rear Strut Replacement Parts Needed Too? | PriusChat

 

Good job, OP!

 

Toyota's Coolants:
LLC (Long Life Coolant; red color)- IIRC (If I Recall Correctly) 50K mile from factory fill, then 25K mile drain/fill intervals.
SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant; pink color)- 100K miles from factory fill, then 50K mile drain/fill intervals. SLLC has different additives compared to the LLC.

Art's Automotive believes in 2-3yrs coolant change interval; roughly 36K miles, assuming 12,000miles/year.

 

I believe the LLC factory-fill and field replacement intervals are both 30K mile intervals. You are correct with regards to SLLC.

Further the LLC needs to be mixed with distilled water while the SLLC is pre-mixed. If both coolants are priced at the same amount, then SLLC effectively costs ~2x LLC assuming the cost of distilled water is insignificant.

 

Toyota's coolant change interval for the Gen2 Prius is at 100,000miles/10years, then every 50,000miles/5years.
Art's Automotive makes a compelling point to change 36,000miles/2-3 years.

As some have stated on here, the factory service schedule/recommendations are a minimum. You can maintain it to a higher degree if you choose. You are ahead of the curve as you changed your transaxle fluid (hopefully no later than every 60,000miles) and Toyota only states to check and add ATF-WS if needed. CRAZY! No lubricant lasts forever. But Toyota's idea of "lifetime," is very different than a consumer, as they are in the business of selling cars.

 

We don't know what your time is worth to you. Why don't you tell us what you think you saved?

 

I'm gonna guess...a buttload?

I'd say you're into the $1500-2000 range at least, but of course, they would have found other things to alarm you with and try to charge you for as well. If you wanted an accurate number, you could call a local dealer and get a quote. Maybe we should all guess and then you can come in later with the real number?

Here's my guess...$1,895.

 

Labor only for front strut and rear shock replacement would have cost me $1000 @ Hooman or $800 @ Cabe in Long Beach.

You really need to price shop what maintenance/repairs you want performed, to know for sure. Auto repairs are always a lot; a lot more at the dealer.

 

One often overlooked item is your HV Battery Coolant fan. I highly recommend you remove the rear passenger side panel, remove the fan and clean it. This will ensure that the HV Battery remains at optimal temperature. From what I have deduced, dirty fans contribute to many HV failures. If you are the third owner, you have no idea if someone used to keep a dog in the vehicle and their hair got sucked into the vent...

 

Original owner.

Fan was cleaned when I replaced the rear struts.