Transmission fluid change DIY

Thank you. Very interesting article

 

Regarding clip removal:

1. Any time you've got the clips out, rinse them thoroughly and give a blast of air, to get any grit out. With care they're actually quite durable, and they're expensive little buggers to replace.

2. There's more than one size of clip. I think the most serious variation is two on the "oil change access" flap (which I never use). It's worthwhile to mark the heads of those, and the adjacent panel, in some distinct color, to avoid mixing them up. On ours I believe those two are a distinct grey color, too.

3. If a clip is really stubborn to remove, they'll be less prone to break if you can lever them up from both sides at once, say with a mini pry lever on one side, and a flat blade screw driver on the other.

Here's an improvised tool I use with clip removal, very effective. It's actually a paint can opener:

 

I haven't done a tranny drain before.

Isn't there supposed to be a part at the end where you shift through all your gears (P, D, N, B) so that your new ATF distributes?

 

No, it's a simple drain and fill. Exactly as outlined in first post.

 

I've never heard of that with conventional automatic either, at least not with our parade of Hondas. Just change it and drive.

 

That strategy makes sense. If you can't use two tools at once, at least pry both sides in alternation with your single tool, a little at a time, instead of trying to pry only on one side.

It should be possible to make an even more efficient tool than the paint-lid remover by modifying tweezers to give them hooked tips to grip opposite sides of the clip simultaneously. Then a simple straight pull should get the stubborn plastic pin out.

Good photos in that how-to! I hope to tackle this project fairly soon myself.

 

Yes, good idea, something similar to a battery post clamp puller.

 

I just rip the clips out and throw them away. They are cheap on ebay. Just buy more.

 

Where do you order your clips? We need to get more, but not sure where the best place to get them is.
Thanks

 

I posted this thread on a FULL clip set from pep Boys with a $10 off coupon.

Toyota Body Retainer Clip Set with $10 off coupon at Pep Boys | PriusChat

It takes the guesswork of having the right clip. It's better than $2-3 a clip at the Toyota dealer.

 

This is bugging the heck out of me, lol. I've done about 8 oil changes, and apart from the first one I pulled the under panel off every time. I've a vague recollection of having to pick up replacement fasteners once, at most it was two.

Take them out carefully, rinse the grit out of them, they'll pretty much last forever.

 

Ebay!

 

This TSB for the underpanel is helpful if you're looking for clips. Essentially, you need a whole bunch of "3" clips, and a couple of "5" clips. The Toyota parts numbers corresponding to the ID numbers are shown. The latter are grey coloured, at the oil access flap. The "4"'s are irrelevant, connecting two panels that come off as a single unit. The "2"'s are metal bolts.

 

Thanks, Mendel, for that handy .pdf---and also your others I've been collecting as they appear!

I haven't needed to do an oil change yet on my Prius, but can see it will be a far more tedious and messy project than on previous cars.

 

The "3" clips are 7mm and the "5" clips are 9mm on my 2010. These are the ones I buy:

100 Rivet Fastener Bumper Push Retainer Hood Clips for Toyota Lexus 90467 07166 | eBay

 

The oil change on my Gen III is incredibly simple and straight forward. It's just as easy as my Volvo.

 

I didn't say it's harder than a Volvo. Does your Volvo have an under-panel blocking access? Does it require crawling underneath the car, or lifting the car to change the oil and filter? My Mazda didn't. My Subaru and Chevrolet did, but only for the drain plug, not as far under, and with more ground clearance.

 

Changed tranny fluid first time DIY job @ $9.20quart, and $1.60 per aluminum crush washers from dealer in Coos Bay Oregon. We have two, an 2008 and a 2005 Prius. ATF service prior, the dealer change ATF 110k miles ago on the 2008, found drain plug to be practically welded to pan, took a cheater bar to break loose. Feel dealership did on purpose prior due to records showed I maintained the motor oil maintenance prior. When I bought fluids/ washer at dealers parts dept. the kid tried to state I needed more tools to change and stated vehicle needed to sit for over an hour after driving, in other words BS to discourage me even after I stated having knowledge of basic mechanics. SIMPLY PITIFUL!!!