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2011 Model Three w/ NAV & JBL System Replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Audio and Electronics' started by PlugLife, Apr 5, 2015.

  1. PlugLife

    PlugLife Junior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2015
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    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I bought my Prius used, didn't think to test the touch-screen during the test-drive. I figured since the technology is fairly mature and the unit appeared to function otherwise-- I mean, cash registers, cell phones, laptops, office multifunction devices and such have been using touch-screens reliably for over a decade now-- "why would it malfunction?" was my thinking. Well, the screen doesn't sense touch anymore, rendering it essentially useless. The Toyota dealership I took it to after the purchase said it would need replacement and quoted roughly $2,800 for replacement.

    So, that was my budget for an aftermarket replacement + audio system upgrade. Luckily, I already had some of the major components in another vehicle I am preparing to sell: 4-channel full-range amp, capacitor, mono-block amplifier and subwoofer, I also have plenty of power wire (of various gauges) and fuses lying around.

    I decided on either an Alpine INE-W957HD or the new Pioneer AVIC-7100NEX unit. The major advantage to the Pioneer in my mind is the ability to playback 24/192 FLAC files, but all other specs seem equal (similar DACs, pre-out voltage, navigation, integrative capabilities, etc). The audio shop that I frequent is giving me a wholesale price on the Alpine unit, but the owner doesn't normally stock the higher-end Pioneer units despite being an authorized dealer, but I think the Pioneer retail is normally cheaper than the Alpine. Thoughts are welcome as far as comparability of the units or compatibility issues, I'm here for information, I'm not emotionally attached to either unit.

    I was planning on going with Focal 165 AS3s (three way component speakers for the front and rear doors), they're a 6 34/" woofer, 3" midrange and 2" inverted tweeter. I know that I read somewhere in a thread, I think it was either spiderman or logpok, that they were able to mount some 3 1/2" drivers in the dash speaker location (this is where I planned to mount the midrange drivers for the front pair). I plan to mount the tweeters using pods, but in the rear door in my Prius there appears to be a tweeter mount in the door just below the forward top-part of the door-- is this mount similar to the one in the dash? Will it accept a 3" driver?

    I plan to bypass the JBL system entirely, run new wires to the speakers, use the pre-outs from the new HU directly to the amplifiers, etc.

    However, my plan has yielded some interesting questions that I haven't been able to answer using the search function of the forum.

    1) Can the rear door tweeter location also accept three inch drivers as the dash location can?

    2) Assuming I use the appropriate steering wheel control adapters, will I lose the other steering wheel controls? I.e. is the nav system integral to the trip/display buttons, and A/C controls? I realize I will lose the steering wheel hands-free bluetooth buttons, but I feel the aftermarket systems offer superior functionality in this respect anyway. I know I won't have the system monitor in the nav-unit, but as it stands I cannot access it anyway because the touch-screen doesn't work. I have Carista and a bluetooth dongle to access those settings, now.

    3) When I remove the old HU, will there be any additional steps needed to ensure the JBL amblifier no longer receives/draws power, it appears to be mounted under the passenger's seat? I may not remove it, I think it'll be easier to co-locate the two amps in the rear near the battery.

    A complete list of components I am installing:

    Alpine INE-W957HD (Or Pioneer AVIC-7100NEX)
    Focal Access 165AS3s (all four doors)
    JL Audio G4500 4-channel amp
    JL Audio G1300 mono-block amp
    JL Audio 10W3v2-4 10" subwoofer w/ prefab .6 cu ft. sealed enclosure (for proper Q)
    Dynamat all four doors, and rear-deck spare tire well and rear hatch under the plastic interior trim.

    I realize the amps I am installing are older, but they're class A/B (less efficient). However, they have lower THD at rated power and sound better than most of all but the most expensive class Ds I've heard that are newer. (I know I'm going to take a lot of flack for that comment)

    Anyway, I really appreciate any input/feedback, and I plan to begin install on the 10th of this month, so I will try to get pictures and chronicle the project in this thread. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2010
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    Location:
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    2015 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    I used 3 way components up front. 3" is about the limit without cutting for the front dash position. I did not have to deal with the rear door position as I started with the base model. Check with Metra (Metra Online | Welcome to Metra Auto Parts Online Warehouse) for the latest steering wheel adapters (or PAC if you prefer). Below is the wiring diagram for the 2010 JBL/Nav which should help you isolate the JBL amp and one to the system I put in my 2010 Prius II.

    frodoz Stereo Upgrade | PriusChat
     

    Attached Files:

  3. PlugLife

    PlugLife Junior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2015
    8
    7
    0
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Thanks frodoz737, according to the diagram in your album, the rear door tweeter mounts are the same size as the front dash mounts (2.6 in.), so I should be okay mounting the mid-range drivers in the rear door. I think I might go ahead and remove the JBL amp completely, that way I can mount the crossovers under the seats as you did, I like that idea.

    I'm still trying to find out whether or not the non-audio related controls route through the NAV system. I'd hate to lose my display/trip control and environmental controls because I needed to replace Toyota's sub-standard OEM unit.
     
  4. PlugLife

    PlugLife Junior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2015
    8
    7
    0
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Just an update: The installation is finished. I ended up going with the Alpine instead of the Pioneer (got a much better price on the Alpine) and I removed the JBL amp completely to make room for the cross-overs for the rear doors (I will have a complete stock JBL/Nav system for sale in the near future, if I can get the touch-screen fixed). I also opted for a new JL Audio 12TW3-D4 (12") subwoofer, instead of using the older JL Audio 10".

    The end-result I am totally happy with. This is probably the best, as far as sound-quality, installation that I've ever had in a vehicle I've owned. I can hear amazing detail even with the windows down on the freeway. There's also excellent channel-separation which gives it a good image, even in the rear seats. I attribute this to the three-way components and being able to mount the mid-range drivers in the stock tweeter location. With the windows up it's like wearing a good pair of studio headphones.

    Some things I learned as a result of the installation:

    With the ASWC-1, all of the steering wheel controls work, I can even skip through files via bluetooth on my phone using the track buttons on the steering wheel (all other non-audio related functionality is retained, such as climate and display controls).

    The Focal Access 165AS3s (this would also be true of the Expert 165 F3s as they're dimensionally identical) fit like a glove in the stock speaker locations (woofer/mid), but the tweeters will need their own mounting locations (see pics).

    Dynamat is worth every-penny and every ounce of weight it adds to the doors in the Prius. Not only does it enhance the sound of the speakers by providing a more acoustically inert mounting/suspension, it also makes the doors sound more like a late-model Lexus than a late-80's Toyota econobox when one shuts them, and you don't have to slather the entire door (see pics).

    I will add more in another post, as I know there are some things I am forgetting.

    I do plan further upgrades to the system, I am planning to have custom enclosures made to fit in the rear cubbies on both sides and add a second 12TW3, probably go with a higher power class-D monoblock and wire them parallel. Class-ABs aren't as efficient and there are some really nice cool-running class-Ds with ultra-low THD + N on the market now for sub-woofers (they're not designed for full-range operation, which makes the LPF on the output side work much better).

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  5. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2010
    4,297
    2,347
    33
    Location:
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    2015 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    Nice. "If I read you right", when/if you switch from A/B's to D's...you can loose the cap too.
     
  6. PlugLife

    PlugLife Junior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2015
    8
    7
    0
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Actually, I want to keep the A/B full-range for the door speakers, just swap out the sub-woofer amp for a class-D, but I'll keep the cap because I'll probably go with a 600w+ sub-woofer amp to drive two subs. Although, these subs are not power-hungry by any means, this one sounds clean at 220w~300w. I figured with the +3db bump (acoustic coupling) from adding a second sub, I could turn the gain down and still fill the cabin, assuming I can get the same power to both drivers.

    I was listening to "A Love Supreme" yesterday, through Bluetooth (playing a FLAC on android 4.4), and it sounded almost as if I were listening to a studio master. I'm impressed, Bluetooth streaming has matured, finally.
     
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