Are the rear hubs suppose to turn freely?

I had a caliper seize on the driver rear side that messed up my rotor. After pulling it off I noticed that the hub took considerable force turn it.

I figure that if Toyota went through all the effort to put springs in the brake pad to keep them from dragging, the hub should at least turn freely.

I'm worried that the heat generated by the dragging brakes might of damaged the bearings.
Or is this just me being a one time Fiat owner nervousness.

 

OK, there is nothing connected to it. Not even the rotor is on at the moment. I have to apply a constant force to move it.

I'll compare it to the other side tonight. I'll see how that one works.

 

I was waiting for summer weather to pop me back up into the 50 to 60 on my drive to work but stayed down around 40-45.
Not typical for my car for the past 4 years.

I felt the wheels and they were hot to the touch.

 

Mendal, never though of that pin having to line up. Make sense though. I'll check it tonight

However the hubs were hard to turn with nothing, not even the rotor, on the hub.
Attaching the wheel might give it some inertia to keep it moving.

And thanks for the instruction manual on the brakes.

 

Just an update, the passenger side would spin for about 14 revolution with everything (wheel, brake pads, rotor) attached. the driver side would only turn about 5 revolutions. But it's hard to know if the same force is being applied but you can feel the drag on one and not the other.
Checking with a dial caliper, there was no play in either bearing.

When I replace the caliper pin, I'll check again with a torque wrench.

It's nice to be back up to 50 MPG's again.

That brake tool works nice by the way.

 

It started out as a brake job, having to replace the rear brakes because of a seized caliper rod. When I had the brakes off, I discovered the hub on the driver side is also dragging. Comparing one side to the passenger side, the driver side hub had a lot more drag.
I'll be replacing the hub soon.

 

Well the brakes froze up again!
the pin the caliper floats on was froze up causing the caliper to remain fixed in position. Out side of the rotor was severely pitted and rusted because the pad never touched the rotor. Dealer spent 4 hours fixing the problem although he only charged me for 2 hours. Somehow they had to press the pin out and then resurfaced the rotors. yada yada yada

When I replaced the pads and rotor last time I grease the pins up and made sure it worked freely. But the bearing was replaced (under warranty ) so I assume the mechanic had to take it all apart again. Is there something he could of done that allowed it to freeze up so fast? The rubber boot looked intact and seated properly (yes, they let me look at the car to see the problems).

Also my rear struts are leaking $650.. but that is also covered warranty.

 

I used high temperature bearing grease. I was thinking about using locktite anti seize but wasn't sure of it's resistance to heat from braking.
Don't know what the dealerr used if anything.