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HV battery issues

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Lesk_The_Glut, Apr 24, 2015.

  1. Lesk_The_Glut

    Lesk_The_Glut Junior Member

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    Hi Folks. I have a 2006 Prius that's presenting code P0A80. I took the battery out, cleaned up the pieces in the bus bars and checked out the modules. I'm new to this but have picked up quite a lot from the wealth of knowledge available on this site. I can't afford a new battery at this time so, I hope to rebuild the pack myself.

    I tested voltage on the modules with no load and then with a load. I used a sealed 55w/65w headlamp with a light switch to load test for 1 minute.
    Here are my results.
    Module - No Load -- Load -- Variance
    1----------- 7.42 --------7.18-----.24
    2----------- 7.59 --------7.28-----.31
    3----------- 7.45 --------7.18-----.27
    4----------- 7.60 --------7.27-----.33
    5----------- 7.46 --------7.18-----.28
    6----------- 7.59 --------7.25----.34
    7----------- 6.13 --------5.71----.42 *
    8----------- 7.60 --------7.26----.34
    9----------- 7.45 --------7.16----.29
    10--------- 7.59 ------- 7.26----.33
    11--------- 7.30 -------- 6.84----.46 *
    12--------- 7.58 ---------7.24----.34
    13 -------- 7.42 ---------7.14----.28
    14 -------- 7.59 ---------7.25----.34
    15 -------- 7.43 ---------7.14----.29
    16 -------- 7.59 ---------7.25----.34
    17 ---------7.44 ---------7.16----.28
    18 -------- 7.59 ---------7.25 ---.34
    19 -------- 7.44 ---------7.16 ---.28
    20 -------- 6.32 ---------5.81 ---.51 *
    21 -------- 7.45 ---------7.18 ---.27
    22 -------- 7.59 ---------7.26 ---.33
    23 -------- 7.47 ---------7.20----.27
    24 -------- 7.60 ---------7.28 ---.32
    25 -------- 7.47 ---------7.20 ---.27
    26 -------- 7.59 ---------7.28 ---.31
    27 -------- 7.48 ---------7.23 ---.25
    28 -------- 7.55 -------- 7.25 ---.30

    It looks, to me, like 7, 11 and 20 are bad. If anyone disagrees, please let me know.

    My plan is to replace bad modules and use get the grid charger from Hybrid Automotive to balance the pack. I know some are using the multiple charger technique for balancing. The grid charger seems to be the way to go, for me, because it sounds like a simpler approach and I will have it around for ongoing preventative
    maintenance.

    I have a few questions though.
    1. If 3 modules are bad, should I replace 3 or 4? I've heard to replace in pairs and wasn't sure how that would affect this situation. It seems that I'd be trashing a somewhat healthy 4th module.
    2. Should I shuffle the modules around? I've read that this is a good idea but there are various opinions about how to set them up. I've read to keep blocks of 2 with similar voltage or to swap the inside modules with the outside modules. Should I use an amalgamation of the two methods?
    3. I've read ericbecky say that the replaced modules should match capacity or resistance(or something else, I can't remember) to the ones in the pack. If I'm balancing with the grid charger, is this important?
    4. Jeff652, I hope you see this. I want to get the discharger. Can you describe the difference between your simple discharger and the forthcoming advanced model and how it works in conjunction with the charger? And do you have a solid release date for the advanced model? It sounds close. I may benefit from it but need the whole setup asap. I haven't ordered anything yet.
    5. I'd like to observe the ongoing condition of the battery, also the ability to diagnose issues with the car. I have been looking at elm327 devices but there is so much info flying about that I'm a bit confused as to what I need. If possible, I'd like to use bluetooth and all my laptops are win8 (god help me). So, Mini vci is out. I'd like a scan tool that is basically plug and play but will give block voltage readings. What do you think about ScanTool's OBDLink LX bluetooth scanner with the addition of priidash?

    Thanks
     
    #1 Lesk_The_Glut, Apr 24, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2015
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome! sounds like you've got your act together. all the best with your rebuild!(y)
     
  3. greasemonkey007

    greasemonkey007 Active Member

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    No, mini vci is not out. I've got 8.1 pro and got it installed on a virtual machine. It thinks it's a 32 bit system.
    Yes, those 3 are toast. I personally wouldn't change a 4th one unless I couldn't get the capacity up. I've rearranged mine after reconditioning but I just now got my grid charger. I paired mine up in order of discharge capacity, but I think pairing by resistance would be just as good.
    Good luck
     
  4. Lesk_The_Glut

    Lesk_The_Glut Junior Member

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    If you see this, Jeff652, Can you please also give me a rundown of what the programmable wifi integration will give us? I don't see much on your site in regards to this interesting prospect.
     
  5. johnjohnchu

    johnjohnchu Active Member

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    5. Just purchased ELM327 (~$5 eBay) to use with Torque Pro ($5) with Prius II specific Torque supplement csv files (Prius Chat).
    Also purchased Mini CVI (~$15 AliExpress), which includes the latest Toyota Techstream v10. Manually install the Mini CVI 32 bit device driver on a 64 bit Win 7 machine. Everything easily works as expected.
     
  6. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Lesk,
    Glad we talked on the phone. I think you are on the right track given your situation. You are aware of the shortcomings and possible outcomes. Much better than going into it blindly with rose-colored glasses.
    Best of luck. Keep in touch.
     
  7. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    Hello. Thanks for the great questions, and for the email to help me find you post ;-) The intelligent discharger is getting close, and I must say is very cool! We have working prototypes done, and are just working out some final thermal issues. Here is a pick of one of the test units drawing 2.44A at 248V:

    [​IMG]

    The Intelligent Discharger will automatically taper the load down as the pack drains below its normal operating range. You simply set it to the termination voltage you want and then walk away! It will do the rest. They are probably 2-3 months away from full release. Our beta program is fully subscribed but if you want to be on the interested parties list (first to know when released) send us a note. Once our last QC tests are done we just need to ramp up for production.

    The simple light bulb based dischargers we sell now work great, and will be much less $$ than the Intelligent Discharger unit. For those that want to save some funds and are ok with changing the lights bulbs at the proper intervals while the battery drains, this is and will remain a great, cost effective option.

    It allows for remote turn on and turn off of the charger system. It will also monitor AC wattage consumed by the charger. It's a fun toy that some people really like (and we are happy to supply), but is not necessary for reconditioning the battery pack with our charger & discharger combination. You can read more about what the Belkin Wemo is and what is does here:
     

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  8. Lesk_The_Glut

    Lesk_The_Glut Junior Member

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    Thanks Jeff. It appears that I was submitting an order for your charger and discharger as you were typing your response. :LOL:
    I also ordered 3 modules from ericbecky. My hopes are high that this will get me on the road. The resources on this site are nothing short of incredible.
    Thanks, everybody, for your help and input.
    Hey Jeff, I wonder if you'll ever produce a combined charger/discharger for those that will be starting from scratch.
     
  9. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Combined Charger/Discharger units are interesting and available now from other companies.
    They are a bit more complex and cost around $1,100.
    Installation is more involved as well.

    They are super-cool though and a joy to use. But almost everyone opts for a less costly option.
    If anyone wants more info about the $1,100 charger, feel free to call me to chat about it.
     
  10. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    Great idea! It's already in our patent filings and product pipeline ;-) Ours will be very user/install friendly and less expensive than what is on the market today.
     
  11. Lesk_The_Glut

    Lesk_The_Glut Junior Member

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    With Eric's help, I've got good replacement modules and have the pack together and installed.
    Jeff, I'm on a learning curve with your charger and discharger. I had expected the voltage to top out at 240. I was away for a bit so, wasn't able to follow the charge closely, at all times. But I did notice it get to 239. Then, it came down and seemed to want to stay at 235.
    After about 24 hours, I pulled the plug to focus on discharge. I got the 200, 60 and 15 watt bulbs. Took a bit of looking because some were called replacement bulbs and actual wattage was less. Most of the 60 watts actually used 43 watts. If I understand your site's guide, it can take less than 4 hours to discharge. I think it took about 2 hours just to get to 196 volts. And maybe about 6 more hours to get to 140v. I understand that every pack is different but just wanted to run this by you to see if this is an odd situation. I have noticed a jump back up in voltage after inserting the next set of bulbs. Maybe 10 volts. Now that I'm using the 15 watt bulbs, I'm not really sure how low to take the pack. I think you've mentioned .68v per cell as being the minimum for measurable impact. I assume you mean around 115v for the pack? 115v divided by 168 cells being .68v. Is that how to figure the individual cell voltage in relation to the pack?
    If I'm on the right track, I assume I'll do this 3 times, finishing with a 4th charge. What's a good step down voltage for the next 2 discharges?
    Thanks
     
  12. Lesk_The_Glut

    Lesk_The_Glut Junior Member

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    After about a 11 hour discharge, I think it's complete. With my target of 115v, the last few volts went quickly and I stopped at 114.3v. I plugged the charger back in. The cooling fan control sub-assembly seemed to run with a high pitch for 5 seconds or so, then went silent for a few seconds, then started back up with a steady but lower pitch. I think the battery fan ran steadily during this episode.
    I noticed the voltage on the charger started out at about 125, then, within a few minutes, hovered around 150 but moved around a lot between 144 and 152. Back and forth. All this time, the mA would swing wildly from around 360 to 0 and back again. Is everything as it should be?
    Now, about 10 minutes later, the voltage is reading just under 200 and moving very slowly. The mA are fluctuating between 120 and 300 with an occasional 400.
     
  13. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    Sure, happy to help. The peak voltage of the battery will vary. It varies from battery to battery and even with the same battery depending on a variety of factors, such as ambient temp, charge level of the battery when you began the process, battery health, as well as other factors. 235V-240V is right in the normal range of what I would expect to see on a 04-15 Prius battery pack. Yes, traditional incandescent bulbs are getting harder to find. The CFLs are more common, but do not create enough load to discharge the battery. We have found that the local 'mom and pop' hardware stores (such as Ace Hardware) tent to keep a better supply of incandescent light bulbs on the shelf.

    The discharge example on the website that took just under four hours was not a deep discharge, but just a operating range data logging example. We normally see deep discharge times of 6-10 hours depending on the battery pack. Your discharge times sounds normal. The voltage bounce back is also normal. When you remove load from the battery cells, they will recover and you will see the voltage rise. The opposite happens when you are charging to high (100%) charge levels. When you disconnect the charger you will see the voltage drop back into the normal operating range as well.

    You are correct that you need to go below 0.68V/cell to get the best impact. When we do ti, we drain to 100V, then 50V, then 10V for the Pack, charging for 24 hours between each deep discharge cycle.

    Yes this is correct/normal/ok. The current will fluctuate when the voltage is below 200V. It will automatically normalize at 350mA when the voltage crosses over 200V. The power supplies inside the charger system can only regulate current over a 50V range. The fluctuating current below 200V averages to about 200mA and is still quite safe for the battery. Has the charger crossed back over 200V yet?
     
  14. Lesk_The_Glut

    Lesk_The_Glut Junior Member

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    Yes. It's at 233. It has been increasing 1 volt an hour, for the last 3 hours that I have been able to pay attention. It has been almost 12 hours on this charging cycle. Should I let it go the full 24 hours to be sure of balance?
    thanks
     
  15. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    Good stuff. Yes, I would recommend running for at least 22-24 hours before starting the next deep discharge cycle.
     
  16. Lesk_The_Glut

    Lesk_The_Glut Junior Member

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    You guys are awesome! After 3 charge/discharge cycles, with 1 more charge to top it off, I've gone about 400 miles without HV codes. Now, I do have codes P1121 and P1116. So, my next task is to address the cooling system. HA!
    Always a new adventure.
     
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