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Parking Brake Cable Adjustment

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by lenjack, Jun 30, 2015.

  1. lenjack

    lenjack Active Member

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    I need to take the slack out of this cable. I know how to do the adjustment, but it seems the kick panel, and possibly the left lower instrument panel, need to come off. Does this panel(s) simply snap off and snap back on without any drama, or tools? Also, the bolt sizes, I've read, are 10mm. Is that correct?
    Thanks in advance.:sleep:
     
  2. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    It's really easy. First remove the trim piece over the driver's door sill. Kneel outside the driver's door with the door open and grab the trim piece. Wedge your fingers under the middle of the trim piece and pull up rotating the piece away and toward you. It's held on with a couple of clips.

    Next, remove the black plastic nut on the lower corner of the footwell trim piece that is next to the dead pedal and parking brake. This fastener should be easily removed with your fingers, as it sometimes falls off on its own and is discovered laying in the footwell. Then grab the trim piece and pull it off.

    You should now have access to the parking brake cable.

    If you have to remove the lower dash panel, there are only a few small screws or 10 mm bolts, if memory serves me correctly.
     
  3. lenjack

    lenjack Active Member

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    "trim piece over the driver's door sill" Is this the kick panel?
    "footwell trim piece that is next to the dead pedal" Is this a second trim piece?


    10 mm?
     
  4. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    You have to remove the trim piece covering the door sill before you can remove the other kick panel trim because it overlaps.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I write in curiosity ... how common is it for this cable to go slack or need adjustment in five years? My 2001 still seems just right.

    In my '01, it will occasionally seem a tad loose, just before the rear self-adjusters click out another notch, and then it feels just right again. In your '10 I think you've got the rear disk brakes, and their self adjusters should be clickless (it's a threaded bolt inside the caliper with a one-way spinning sleeve nut at the piston, and should always stay at the optimum setting). Is it possible anything could be out of whack at the calipers and preventing their adjusters from operating?

    It just seems so strange the cable would need any attention at five years.

    -Chap
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah, OP's first sentence has me wondering. Could be valid, or? Anyway, here's info on access, adjustment:
     

    Attached Files:

  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i was wondering the same thing. i suppose there are differences because of the rear brake change, but my '04, '08 and '12 are all fine. again, another '10 with brake issues? but then, i rarely use the e brake. maybe if you live in a hilly area?
     
  8. lenjack

    lenjack Active Member

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    Fixed. Pedal no longer goes almost to floor. Took a pretty fair amount of adjusting. Made sure the brake wasn't dragging. Yes, I always use the parking brake. Don't like to put pressure on the parking pawl. No need to remove UPPER panel cover. Two 10mm wrenches. That pdf looks nothing like my brake assembly. It looks like the following:

    PARKING BRAKE: PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM ... - PriusChat
     
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  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That's very very odd. How long have you had the car? Has the parking brake always felt loose, or did it seem to get that way over time? I take it you reset the travel to 8 to 11 clicks at 300 newtons? What did you use to measure the 300 N? Are you sure of the condition of the rear caliper sleeve nuts and clutch springs?

    -Chap
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah, see I posted the brake pedal details, not the parking brake pedal. Sorry for the mixup. :oops:
     
  11. lenjack

    lenjack Active Member

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    Was OK 5 1/2 yrs ago. Gradually stretched out with regular use. Didn't measure force. Adjusted till it feels right. Made sure no drag at rear wheels. Brakes inspected last week by trusted dealer at inspection.
     
    #11 lenjack, Jul 5, 2015
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2015
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I wonder if you've got an especially strong stomp when you set the parking brake. I'm still just trying to get my head around what would stretch your cable noticeably in 5 ½ years, when others do just fine after 15. Maybe if you're putting a lot more than 300 N on it every time parking, year in and year out, it could have that effect over time....

    -Chap
     
  13. lenjack

    lenjack Active Member

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    I do give it a substantial "stomp", but not excessive, I don't think. Also, take into consideration, I do use it every time I park.
     
  14. TreeHugger1

    TreeHugger1 Junior Member

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    Lenjak's PDF diagram for the 2010 seemed to match my car well. Thanks.

    On my 2012 Prius, adjusting the parking brake tension was quite a bear. I removed the door sill trim and then the foot well trim piece (secured by a black plastic nut near the floor). At that point, I had a hard time even finding the adjuster nut on the cable and no way could a wrench touch it. I wanted to remove the trim panel that holds the hood release latch, but that looked difficult and I didn't want to put the hood latch at risk. At this point (of frustration) partially applying the parking brake rotated the adjuster nut into view and I was able to get at it with a socket wrench plus extension. There was still not enough access for a wrench, but I found that tightening the one exposed nut also spun the second nut and tightened the cable. I had also just changed the rear rotors and pads. With the cable tightened, that reduced free spinning (by hand) of the rear wheels to maybe 2 or 3 revolutions. I also note that the rear rotors are somewhat hot to the touch after driving 12-15 miles with very little brake use. I'm wondering if this heating up issue will go away after driving more (breaking in the new brake pads) or should I back off some of that tightening to the parking brake? I suspect that backing off the cable tension will require removing that 3rd trim panel to access both adjuster nuts - uh-oh. Apart from hiring a professional, any suggestions?
     
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    See I never did get around to posting the parking brake adjustment, have attached it now.

    Did you pay attention to the caliper piston orientation? It's got to go back together looking like this:

    upload_2020-5-10_6-19-5.png
    (excerpt from rear brake info, attached)

    The shaded areas in the above pic are raised spokes. There is a stubby pin on the back of the brake pad, and it must be between those raised spokes, solidly seated thus, both to seat squarely and to prevent the piston from rotating (each time the parking brake is used).

    If your rear brakes are hot to the touch, it could be the parking brake adjustment, or the the caliper piston orientation. Check both. For the caliper piston:

    1. Alway disconnect 12 volt negative cable before commencing brake work.
    2. Ensure rear caliper piston orientation is per above picture.
    3. Put brakes back together. Don't touch parking brake.
    4. Depress brake pedal (not parking brake) multiple times, till it firms up. This takes up any excess brake pedal travel (which could throw a code later), and ensures the pin on back of brake pad is well seated, locked between the spokes.
    4. Reconnect the 12 volt negative cable.
    5. Take the car for a short test drive. Be gentle with the brakes.
    6. On your return, apply/release the parking brake several times.
    7. Raise the rear of car, and test-spin the wheels. They should have only slight drag, be capable of spinning 2~3 revolutions after a push. If so, you're out of the woods.



    Addendum: apologies, forgot the attachments, remedied now.
     
    #15 Mendel Leisk, May 10, 2020
    Last edited: May 10, 2020
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  16. Ed Beaty

    Ed Beaty Active Member

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    "Did you pay attention to the caliper piston orientation. It's got to go back together looking like this:"

    Your best post on this, ever. You have boiled it down to a fine rare brew... :)
     
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  17. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    @Mendel Leisk uses this so much (like the egr circuit cleanse) that he has it "cut and paste" ready(y).
     
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  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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  19. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    When will you make a reverse camera cleaning file :whistle:?

    Then we get to see a surprise guest in the lens:).

    But the boiler plate response for the common issues makes sense(y).
     
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  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Could you say more about why you were adjusting the cable in the first place? It is extremely uncommon to need to. Clearance is automatically adjusted at the calipers through normal use when they're working right.

    You didn't read the "check for 2 to 3 free-spinning revolutions" as if it meant "tighten the cable if you have more than that", did you? That's just a minimum, to check that you haven't messed up brake work and left something binding.

    The only requirement on the parking brake adjustment is that you should get 8 to 11 clicks when pressing with a force of 300 N (about 67½ pounds), the rear brakes don't drag when it's released, and "On a slight grade, check that the parking brake alone can hold the vehicle in place."