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Warning light issue

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by scott180, Aug 26, 2015.

  1. scott180

    scott180 Junior Member

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    After returning from vacation, I found that one door of my 2007 Prius was left open while we were gone. I tried jumping the car. Long story short, I accidentally reversed the polarity and fried the main fuse block. I just replaced the fuse this last weekend and it's been running fine.

    Until today

    I drove to work and everything was fine. Then at lunch I got in the card and started it up. The red triangle came on with the exclamation point. Also the VSC light and the orange exclamation point in the Circle with the ( ) around it.

    I'm thinking that even though I checked all the other fuses in the car I might have missed one. Any other ideas what may be going on? It seems that it couldn't be isolated from the fuse issue. I read a post about an inverter pump but wasn't really clear as to what that was about.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how is the 12v battery health?
     
  3. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Is the "Check Engine Light" on?
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Make the Prius READY and look at the inverter coolant reservoir for fluid turbulence. If you see this then the coolant pump is working. If you do not see turbulence then the pump has failed and that is the root cause of the warning lights that are on.

    The reason that the inverter pump functionality impacts the skid control ECU is because if the inverter overheats, the DC/DC converter will stop working and the voltage on the 12V bus will drop. This will cause the skid control ECU to log fault codes and turn on the warning lights associated with that ECU.

    If your car was working OK for a few days then a blown fuse from the botched jump start is not the problem.
     
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  5. scott180

    scott180 Junior Member

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    The check engine light is not on.
     
  6. scott180

    scott180 Junior Member

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    I had the 12V battery checked at an AutoZone since I just bought it about 2 months ago. After I had recharged it using a charger, it checked out just fine.
    Here are some pictures of the warning lights. I just went out there to check the reservoir and now I have a battery warning light.

    I shot a short video, mostly for the sound. I seems as if something is trying to engage where it whirs for a few seconds, then stops. Then it starts up again and stops. I'll try and get it on YouTube and link to it from here.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. scott180

    scott180 Junior Member

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    Here is the clip where you can hear the sound. I had the wrong reservoir for the coolant. I'll check that again.
     
  8. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Check the inverter pump to see if it is working. Look for turbulence in the reservoir when you are in ready mode.

    Patrick Wong has already explained what might be happening.

    The sound you hear at the end of the video sounds like the A/C compressor kicking on. Been a while since I have been around a Gen II. I used to drive one, but got this newer Gen III.

    yours.jpg ours.JPG

    The pictures above shows the inverter pump reservoir. You should see movement of the fluid when in ready mode. If no movement, then the pump is NOT working.

    Ron (dorunron)
     
  9. scott180

    scott180 Junior Member

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    I checked the pump and the coolant is circulating. I found the diagnostic screens and checked the battery voltage which is showing 12.1V. I didn't go driving around, so that may not mean much.

    The big question for me is "can I drive it?". I have an appointment set up with my dealer for Monday, but I need to get around before then. I already was without it for a week while I waited for the fuse block to come in.

    As I mentioned earlier, I checked continuity on all the fuses in the section under the hood. I found two bad fuses in addition to the main block. I visually inspected all the fuses under the steering column. All those were fine. I also checked the fuses at the 12V battery and those were fine as well. So other than possibly a main battery problem, I'm not sure what the battery indicator could be. I do have 184,000 miles on it.
     
  10. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    You might want to recheck the fuses with a ohm meter. Sometimes they will burn or break where you can not visually see it.

    12.1 volts is low. Should be a little higher imo.

    Sorry I can't be of better help to you.
     
  11. scott180

    scott180 Junior Member

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    Had a friend read the codes. P0A08, P0A09, and C1310. Those are DC/DC converter for the first two and HV System. He cleared the codes and we restarted the car and they instantly came back.
     
  12. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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  13. scott180

    scott180 Junior Member

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    I checked toyotapartznet.com where I got my fuse block and it has the whole inverter for about $3425.00. Is this what you are talking about? That's a lot of money to pay for swapping the polarity. Crap.

    I've seen some references to the Inverter and Converter. Are people using those terms for the same thing, or is it really two different parts? It seems that it is two different parts.
     
    #13 scott180, Aug 27, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2015
  14. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    The DC/DC converter is part of the "Inverter" that sits at the top of your engine compartment. A salvaged inverter is $495 as an exchange at AutoBeYours.com

    JeffD
     
  15. scott180

    scott180 Junior Member

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  16. scott180

    scott180 Junior Member

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    I took the car into the dealer today. After having the car for two hours, they told me that they cleared the codes and were test driving it, but had made no other changes. The tech wanted to talk to me about the fuse I replaced. While we were discussing it he got a call from an engineer in California about how to test the inverter. The test drive showed no issues and the warning lights didn't come on at all. So he ran through another set of tests on the inverter and then after a total of 3.5 hours all they could say is that "the inverter is failing". And to watch for the lights to come back on. If they do, then I should have the inverter replaced. They quoted about $4,600 to have it done.

    So this brings me back to an earlier post about changing the DC/DC converter that is part of the inverter. I'd like to tackle replacing that part since it seems I can get it for about $500. But if I replace it and it doesn't fix the issue, then I need to replace the inverter and probably will lose the $500 since my understanding is that the converter come as part of the inverter. Can someone let me know if that is accurate?
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. Get Mini VCI so that you can retrieve fault codes yourself.
    2. Get a digital multimeter and keep it in the car.
    3. If warning lights come back on, use the DMM to measure voltage across the 12V battery while the Prius is READY. If you see ~13.8V the DC/DC converter is working. If much less, then the DC/DC converter has failed. Use Mini VCI to verify that DTC P0A08 has returned.
    4. If in fact the DC/DC converter is having an intermittent problem, replace the entire inverter with a used part. You can buy a used inverter for ~$500 or less. Do not try to replace the DC/DC converter within the inverter.
     
  18. RRxing

    RRxing Senior Member

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    An inverter turns (didn't want to say "converts" here ;)) high voltage DC (from the HV battery) to high voltage AC (to run various motors, e.g. MG1, MG2, A/C compressor.)
    A converter typically turns AC to DC. In the Prius, there is a DC/DC converter which drops down the high HV battery DC voltage to a low DC voltage to maintain a charge on the 12 volt battery. It may also supply a low DC voltage to some other components.
     
  19. scott180

    scott180 Junior Member

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    Thanks for the help clearing this up. I understand now my confusion over the converter and inverter. Looking for parts now at some of the suppliers recommended on this site.
     
  20. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    It also performs the opposite task of converting three-phase high voltage AC produced by the MGs during regenerative braking to high voltage DC which charges the traction battery.
     
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