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ABS and other bulbs are on

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by TharakaD, Jul 9, 2015.

  1. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    Dear Patrick,
    found part no 47210L @ toyodiy.com, pls see attached.
    it also has a component with 47050-47040, but below link is 47050-47060, seems to be similar..

    1. but below link is 47050-47060, seems to be similar..
    2010 Toyota Prius Brake Master Cylinder ABS PUMP ASSEMBLY 47050-47060 - Part - 156446

    2. [Japanese, with google translator its fine]
    https://s-hokusyo.com/modules/upstocks/?m=01&c=%8E%CC%8E%DF%8E%D8%8E%B3%8E%BD&cc=050100&s=27017214

    3.[Japanese, with google translator its fine]
    http://item.rakuten.co.jp/e-cle/11933681/?scid=af_pc_etc&sc2id=137824960

    Also
    Do you think, I have a high risk of sudden loss of brakes, while its driven on and off work everyday?

    No 2. is the least cost option. But you should be able to comment what's best
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes, it is not easy to figure out what to buy. At least the prices are very low. Make sure you get a replacement ECU because I think that is the root cause of your braking problem. I would say that if shipping time is a problem, then buy two used parts, so that you or your mechanic have a choice of parts to work from when trying to replace the brake unit.

    High risk of sudden loss of brakes? You have driven the car with the warning lights on, so you know the extent to which the brakes are impaired. I guess you are asking if it could get worse, suddenly. Who knows.
     
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  3. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    You're right Patrick,
    So what I really wanted to ask you was,
    The part number format is 47210L or 47050-47040.

    Now I again got confused with two attached pictures in #81
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    47210L is the reference to the exploded parts diagram and is not a part number.

    It looks like the part number is one of four possibilities as shown on the screen shot that you posted. There are two possibilities if the car has 15" wheels and two if the car has 17" wheels.

    47050-47040 or 47210-47130 appear to be for the base model with 15" wheels. You would have to translate the Japanese to see whether 47210-47130 is a direct substitute.
     
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  5. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    Should I consider 15" or 17" option. If my car seems converted to 17"
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    If your car was manufactured with 15" I would say that trumps everything; someone merely swapped wheels.

    Like to say too: I'm following this thread with great interest and appreciate the info. We had similar lights, sporadically over the last year, coupled with brakes feeling a bit "off", like the effort was slightly increased, they're in some sorta default mode.

    Had one big event last Sunday, then since that nothing. Dealership analyzed Tuesday, dismissed codes, said continue to monitor, and try a 12 volt change if it starts acting up again. They said OTOH they tested 12 volt and it was good. So maybe barely good, lol?

    Our 3rd gen came with 17", fwiw.
     
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  7. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    Hi Mendel, so you also had the same codes?
    I've heard or seen somewhere G3 Prius brake related recall. I know if booster barrel has a sticker in certain direction they were replacing.
    But it seems this is a regular issue in this model.
    Within 6 years Cannot expect a high costing repair like this. At least not from a Toyota.
     
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If you buy the first model year of a particular design, and further, buy a used JDM vehicle which logged sufficient mileage to be exported from Japan - it is not totally realistic to expect 100% trouble-free performance.
     
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  9. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    Hi Patrick,
    I do understand abt the first year manufacturing

    But quite a lot of JDM Vehicles in Sri Lanka, specially Toyota purchased through auctions are doing very well.

    But you're reminding me my Leaf is also 2012 November G2.. Ok I haven't given it a good thought
     
  10. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    Patrick, another observation...
    There was a "tuk tuk" sound in every second as the calibration was going on
    Wanted to find out where its from and its near rear right wheel. Its like something is hitting the disk or cover every second
    Does it mean something, may be issue is with just this wheel...
    May be I'm too curious and asking too much questions.
    I don't have anyone to do this repair... So I need to find out is it the real problem... If myself to do it
     
  11. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    okay, no reply probably means... GO GET YOUR PART REPLACED, THEN WE'LL SEE.

    but couldnt this sound be the cause of the issue,
    Before this lights started to show, car had a brake dragging issue. Can that be due to unbalancing of one wheel. and then since the system couldnt balance it, then the Master cylinder + ECU

    Friends,
    its not easy to bear this repair cost, all in a sudden. so i need your comment
     
  12. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    Hi Patrick
    I met one of local hybrid specialists. He gave me few places I can buy this part locally. There seems to be more than ten.
    And they give 2-3 days warranty. If part is giving trouble they will give another part or cash back.
    Tuesday I getting a part.
    This failure seems to be very common in Prius in Sri Lanka. That's why probably it's available in this small island country in many places
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yes, supply follows demand.
     
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  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    You are exactly right.
    A brake dragging is either due to the associated brake caliper assembly binding up, or else is due to the brake actuator maintaining hydraulic pressure in the line to that caliper because a solenoid is not opening when it should. Since you haven't reported a problem with any of the brake calipers, I still think it is reasonable for you to replace the brake actuator now.

    Check the part number of the installed unit and make sure the replacement unit has the same part number. It doesn't matter that your car used to have 15" wheels and now has 17" wheels.

    Obviously, you need to decide what is the best repair path to take, considering the availability/cost of used parts and technical assistance in your locale, and how long you want to tolerate the car having an impaired braking system.

    After the brake actuator is replaced, if the same symptoms and DTC are logged then I would say it is time for you to seek professional assistance at your Toyota dealership - or live with the car as-is.
     
    #94 Patrick Wong, Sep 6, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2015
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  15. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    Hi Patrick
    i dont know whether its calipers
    but when i was trying to do the calibration of linear solenoid valve,
    there was a tuck-tuck sound in 1 sec intervals coming near right side rear wheel

    does this mean something to you..
     
  16. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I do not know why you would have observed that. Was the brake actuator applying pressure to the right-rear caliper at one second intervals? And if so, why was it doing that?

    Or was the noise caused by some other vehicle system - for example, the fuel pump?
     
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  17. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    if actuator is applying pressure, it should do it to other wheels also I suppose, may be in turns or at the same time.
    but that didnt happen either.

    some other vehicle system;
    fuel system : car was not in Ready mode for it to start
    hybrid battery fan : cannot be this type of sound

    I had to do the calibration as manual says when vehicle is ON, Ready Off.
    I also remember switching off the Air condition.

    May be i will do the same thing today and see; if the sound comes....
     
  18. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    I have 2 day return warranty, should I return/ exchange used part?
    Came after fixing the Brake booster with master cylinder, calibration and running less than a minute VSC light came back, then checked
    C1445 - Vehicle Driven with Steering Angle Sensor not initialized

    After clearing that.
    C1336 [Zero Point Calibration of Acceleration Sensor Undone],
    B1504,
    B1801 [technician removed the steering airbag to see the angle sensor]

    DTCs Reset
    Fixed the air bag, and then there were no error codes.

    Then reversed about 2 feet, and taken front about 3 feet; very slowly.
    Yellow brake, ABS and VSC bulbs came in with
    C1336 [Zero Point Calibration of Acceleration Sensor Undone]

    When we did the calibration it came back several times. it didnt work.

    Few hours later after driving back home about 35Kms. with cruise control not working.
    then cleared codes.

    Now it seems ok.
    Went for test run and did rapid braking
    from 80 Km/h straight.
    And while turning both sides.

    Now seems fine. VSC light showed up for few seconds; when I braked rapidly. I think there was a very small skid. But ABS seems to be working well.

    I have 2 days return warranty on replaced part. should i return / Exchange or do you think its ok now.
     
    #98 TharakaD, Sep 10, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2015
  19. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I don't know. My usual rule of thumb is that you should drive 500 miles before you declare victory - when you have an issue that seems to come and go.
     
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  20. TharakaD

    TharakaD Member

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    thats a good Suggestion; tonight I'm gonna try that... not may be 500 miles, but may be 300; maximum it can be