front pad wear

Did you grease the contact points on the edge of the plate where the pads contact the steel?
Are you wearing both pads equally?
Is there any regenerative braking happening???

se

 

Do you have any fault lights on? Fault codes?

When you replaced brake pads did you replace stainless steel anti squeal shims? If the shims don’t lock into pads on their corners they will push the pad into the brake disk and wear them.

If one pad wears more than other problem is with caliber sliders.

If pads wear evenly either they need cleaning and lubricating and having the shims checked/replaced. Or you have some super rare hydraulic/electric fault.

 

If said solenoid holds pressure at caliper, then the calipers probably were not bad at all.

se

 

Sometimes it can be the brake hose. Sometimes they break in a way that allows brake fluid to go into the caliper but not freely out. Can you feel the problem when wheels are lifted up? If not press the brake pedal hard and test again. If you can get it to where you feel the brake drag, open the bleeder a bit (open it until you see brake fluid and close it immediately), if drag then disappears it’s the break hose.

Remember that the brake system isn’t traditional. Front ones you can bleed traditionally if you remove the 2 brake relays. Rear bleeding requires scan tool.

 

Have you noticed a corresponding decrease in fuel economy? Are the brake rotors hot at the end of a trip?

-Chap

 

That's a puzzler, trying to think of a way for the pads to wear down without the brakes working. You may have PriusChat's first known case of asbestos-eating mice. How big are the tooth marks?

-Chap

 

Sounds to me that the ABS solenoid is not releasing completely. Does the ABS still work?
If the car is in traffic all the time it may never get the solenoid to exercise oncevin a while.
Take it to an empty parking lot and slam on the brakes. Even better, get up to speed, put it in Neutral, then slam on the brakes until you feel the ABS actuator work.



se

 

Cold brake discs in a Prius after drive are normal. But if brakes aren’t warming they can’t wear.

 

Wow, that definitely isn't normal. Does the driver drive in hilly or mountainous areas? Is the driver a high speed driver, meaning runs 80 to 90 then slap on the brakes to a tire screeching halt?

Heat kills pads, and if the pads are wearing out that quickly someone isn't giving us the correct info.

Does the vehicle exhibit a pull on braking? Does the driver use BOTH feet to control the car? Where are you getting your brake pads from? Cheap generic pads equal cheap generic performance. That's all I can think of, please tell us your solution if you find one. JTM

LG G3 T-MOBILE phone ☎

 

Have you used a micrometer on the rotor? Is it in spec? Could still be the ABS actuator hanging once in a while, with just enough pressure to simulate a driver laying his foot on the pedal.

This only happened once to me, have you measured brake pedal free play? It would gently apply the pads just enough to drag the pads and wear them out much sooner than normal. What a brain teaser.

LG G3 T-MOBILE phone ☎

 

sounds like regen isn't working. under normal operation, the front pads only are used under 7mph or during panic stops.

any codes that might be set are not gonna show up with a generic obd2 reader. that will only read emissions codes, not abs or hybrid codes.

 

Agreed. Ok so how would you get regen to work once more? New transmission? Would he really want to even consider rebuilding MG 1 and MG2? Or is it the computer control of the regenerative braking that isn't working?

If he has 13 of these in taxi service, maybe he should invest in proper hardware and software to properly read the codes. JTM

 

The winning answer has arrived on the thread.

-Chap

 

Are you sure that your scanner can read all Toyota hybrid specific fault codes?