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Potential short circuit maybe in the CAN bus

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by timglen, Jan 19, 2016.

  1. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Your all over the place and will never fix the car with out some logical troubleshooting approaches.

    You never answered my question. Has the car been in an accident? Did you check every fuse in the car under hood and in cabin and the 2 on the positive post of the 12 volt battery?

    Does the car have SKS and does it work ok? When u try to READY the car put the headlights on and see if they dim when you attempt to READY the car. Or when you just IGN ON.

    Stop messing around with the 12 volt battery. The constant in and out is foolish and exposes your car to even more damage. Put a good battery in there and then connect a good quality battery charger to it and leave it connected while you continue your search.

    Try not to be distracted by clicking sounds and fans coming on. You have a major fault these are just symptoms.

    Pull all the codes using techstream. Go to toyotatechinfo.com and download the code tree. Start working the codes in an orderly fashion.

    If the headlights dim with known good 12 volt with supplemental charger voltage in parallel you have big issue with POWER. Replace INVERTER if the car HAS NOT been in an accident.

    Of course mentioning Inverter makes me think what is the real soc of the Hybdrid battery? I recommend you start there. Take the cover off the Traction battery and with a dvm measure the dc battery side of the relays and report your readings. Pull orange interlock first. Try not to kill yourself.

    If battery ok (at least 190 volts dc) replace Inverter.
     
  2. timglen

    timglen New Member

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    Sorry guys, somehow I missed the question about the car having been in an accident. They didn't say anything about that at the auction, however there is a small dent in the passenger door that they said was caused by someone hitting it in the lot of the auction. Also the history I got from toyota com /owners doesn't say anything about an accident, is there another way of determining if it has been in an accident?

    Yes I have checked all the fuses more than once, I should check them again however since there is behavior I have not seen before. I will let you know.

    I have only driven this car a few times and not very far each time, but I didn't notice any issues with the brakes. I do see sometimes the VSC icon on the dash, does this mean I have SKS?

    I thought I read somewhere that you shouldn't connect up a battery charger while the car is operating, but maybe it was just someone's opinion, it would make life much easier to do it that way.

    The lights did not dim when I tried to get it in Ready mode, but it still won't go in Ready mode.

    The crazy thing about the codes is that they seem to change every time I run the Health Check, which is why I thought for a long time that there was an issue with the CAN bus. The last time I ran it these are the codes I got:

    C2318,U0100,U0123,U0124,U0293,U0073,U0121

    I will check the voltage on the HV battery hopefully tomorrow and let you know.

    I hit the Climate button, but nothing was on, to make sure the display was correct I hit a few buttons like Auto and the A/C auto light went on the dash.

    Patrick, I removed both Fan #2 and Fan #3 relays and the radiator fan is going on much less frequently, and I didn't know that there are 2 radiator fans, thanks for that info!

    Tim
     
  3. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    The heart of this car is the Hybrid battery and the Inverter. Without either in good shape you will not ready.

    Do this first.

    Remove the Hybrid Battery orange interlock.

    Remove the metal cover off the top of the hybrid battery.

    Then re-insert the interlock.

    With just the metal battery cover off the battery box you then can hear the 3 mains relays in the battery box and quickly determine there behavior. Try to go into READY and you will hear a very loud and fast click click click. That's the 3 main battery relays closing. No relays closing check the voltage level of the battery. Measure the dc across the 2 orange leads from the batteries into the relays. Remember your in a hot battery box now its energized. Be careful.

    Report relay behavior and battery voltage.

    Keep your wits about you and always remember the state of the interlock. Go slow.

    Pray that you hear relays closing during the listen test. If you do the Inverter is blown. No relays the hybrid battery may be toast or the Hybrid
    Vehicle Control ECU may be blown. Or worse Can/Gateway comm issues. Chase this main relay first. All bets off no relay.

    I'm hoping the Inverter is blown or on its last leg due to the previous issue with the coolant. The Inverter coolant pump failed (super common) and the Inverter overheated.
    Someone did a home repair on the coolant and messed it up. Limped to the car dealer and traded it in and off to auction it goes.

    Chase the relays. That will lead you to the core issue.
     
  4. timglen

    timglen New Member

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    Thanks Ed for the suggestion, it actually helped me find out one of the issues. I removed the battery cover and hit the power button with the brake on and heard the relay clicks, but then the Ready light went on and the engine started! I think what happened 2 or so weeks ago when I was putting everything together I did not push down on the orange interlock. Patrick suggested that I remove everything I had removed but I did not remove the cover to the HV ECU so did not discover that the interlock was not in place. So it runs now but there are as always new issues.

    If I hit the power button with the brake on and then turn if off and just repeat that process many times, I get a different results each time. Sometimes the engine starts, but other times the Ready light goes on and then shuts off. The other strange thing which I don't believe is new is that the parking brake light is always on. I tried pushing on the parking brake and then releasing it when the car was running and after a few tries the light goes off (if the PB pedal is up), but then a few seconds later it goes back on without me doing anything. Also sometimes one of the fans goes on even thought the engine doesn't start. I still have the red triangle and ABS, check engine and the {!} on the dash and P/S on the display and sometimes but not always the car icon with the exclamation mark.

    I want to make a video of all of this and put it on youtube so people interested can watch it.

    I also tried to clear the DTC's both with connecting pins 4 and 13 and hitting the brake 8 times and also with techstream, which gave me an error messaging saying that it failed. I still believe there is something wrong with either the CAN bus or one of the ECU's so am thinking that I will trying disconnecting them one at a time to see if it changes things.

    Thanks again, there is some progress being made!
    Tim
     
  5. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    I have replaced Skid Control ECU's in four different Prius. The codes I have seen are very similar to what you have. It can be difficult to get Techsteam to connect to the car. The codes tend to change also. The cars generally act possessed. I attribute these systems to the compromised Can Bus system. My opinion is that Can Bus problems are far more likely to be caused by a failed ECU than wiring. That's an opinion based on my own observations.


    Did you run through the calibration steps with Techstream. Skid control ECU's are not plug and play. They need to be set up to the car.

    I would try setting up the Skid Control ECU with Techstream. If one dose not work try another.

    Brad
     
  6. timglen

    timglen New Member

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    Thanks Brad for the tip. I tried it this morning but the funny thing is when I first started the car the red explanation was gone and on the display the P/S was gone and there was the green car. Everything looked good except for the 3 icons on the dash so I connected pins 4 and 13 and turned the engine back on and they disappeared for a minute and I hit the brake 8 times and then everything went back to the way it was -- the red explanation point, the P/S on the display, etc. Not sure what happened but this is typical.

    But I tried doing the calibration using instructions on the techinfo.toyota page and the Utility/Reset Memory worked (I think) but the second part was Utility/Test Mode and it said the VSC and ABS lights would flash and if not try again. They didn't flash and I tried again with the same results so I gave up.

    Afterwards I did a CAN bus check and it said it couldn't communicate with anything. I then disconnected J18 which connects these to the CAN bus:

    Yaw Rate Sensor
    Hybrid Vehicld Control ECU
    ECM
    Gateway ECU

    and the red explanation went away so I connected J18 back and disconnected the Gateway connector and the red explanation was still off. I connected it back and the red explanation came back on but now I have other errands to do.

    Lots of fun!

    Tim
     
  7. timglen

    timglen New Member

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    I was trying to figure out why the radiator fan and A/C condensor fan were going on so I put voltmeter connection on Pin 19 on E4 of the Engine Control Module which is the Engine Coolant Temp sensor, and when the radiator fan went on the voltage of the connection did not change (I think it was about 11v). I assume that signal is what makes the ECM send the signal to the fans to go on.

    Then I tried to get to Pin 8 of E7 of the ECM which turns on Relay's #1 and #2 which turn on the radiator fan but I could not get to the pin with my voltmeter because there are too many wires on the connector and I could not get my lead into Pin 8.

    But at one point the car started, the red triangle was off, and only the check engine and (!) ligths were on, and on the display everything looked good, the green car icon, and no P/S or red car icon. So I ran it for a few minutes and then suddently all of the lights went on:

    red triangle, ABS, VSC, ((!)), skid and the 2 above. The ready light went off.

    After that I could not start it any more.

    Once I put in a freshly charged battery the behavior is better, but there is still strangeness, so I decided to make a video of it, which you can see here:



    Strange URL but it does redirect you to the video, if that doesn't work try this one:



    It shows different lights going on the dash, the light showing which gear you are in flash, the Ready light go out suddenly.

    You can also hear things like the radiator fan go on after the Ready light goes out and a sound I think is the inverter.

    Tim
     
  8. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    Have looked at the wiring diagram?

    -Engine Control module (that is connected to engine coolant temp sensor) has ability to turn on the Radiator fan (to full speed). Or bought fans from half to full speed.
    -A/C pressure switch has ability to turn on the radiator fan (to full speed). Or bought fans from half to full speed.
    -A/C control assembly has ability to turn on the radiator fan (to full speed), bought fans to half speed, or bought fans to high speed.
    -Inverter coolant temp switch has ability to turn bought fans to half speed. Or turn the condenser fan on (to full speed) if radiator fan is already running.
    -And control modules are also connected together so they can talk to each other.

    If you want to diagnose this from fan control side you need to check what is causing the fans to be on. I don’t think you have even told if only one of them is running or bought.
     
    #28 valde3, Feb 19, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Now we know why theses issues remained undefined. Unfortunately your Prius has become a good example of a car that should be towed to the salvage yard with the fobs/title dropped off at the office.

    If you can't determine any wiring harness damage then it will be very hard to figure out the various communications errors, what else is wrong with the car, and what to do about it.

    If you brought the car to your local Toyota dealer, their response probably would be to start by replacing the vehicle wiring harnesses for several thousand $s, without definite assurance that would resolve the problem.
     
  10. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    But wiring harness is repairable if it has small fault. And used parts aren’t expensive. Although Prius prices are smaller in US than in here it still seems weird that other vise good Prius would be scrapped cause of this.

    So it really mostly is about how much you value your own time. If you can do the work yourself.
     
  11. timglen

    timglen New Member

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    Hi Guys,

    Well Patrick I have had the thought that I will have to take this to a salvage yard but Valde asks a good question about if I am willing to use my time to try to debug this and the answer so far is yes. I do like learning about this car (even though there is a lot to learn).

    I am curious though about how I could fix an issue with the wiring harness, I was under the impression that it is something that only the dealers can do. I guess the other question is how can one determine if it is an issue with the wiring harness? If I take it to a Toyota dealer would they be able to tell me that?

    Valde I have the book called Prius Electrical Wiring Diagram which is where I found the connectors and pins for the ECM, but looks like I didn't find all of the pages for that ECM. I bought an ECM on ebay for $20 and connected it but it didn't make any difference. Just one more thing to eliminate as a possibility. I will try to figure out which fans are going on when.

    I am also curious if one of the ECU's could be responsible for this odd behavior, that is a hope of mine.

    The one thing that seems to be consistant is that the car behaves much better when I put in a recently charged aux battery. So I still am rotating the 2 I have because I worry about destroying something by connected up a battery charger.

    Thanks to all.

    Tim
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Well, finding an electrical fault is like solving a puzzle. In general, the process is to identify a problem that needs fixing, and then figure out why the problem is happening.

    In your case, you are bugged by the fact that the radiator fan or fans turn on for no good reason. So if you want to start with that issue, you would carefully study the wiring diagram to identify the various ECUs that influence the fan coming on such as the engine ECU and AC amplifier. Then figure out where the actual control signal is coming from to activate the fan relay which turns on the fan.

    Then figure out why that ECU is producing that signal. As previously suggested, you will get a big hint out of whether one fan or both fans are on, and whether they are spinning at full or half-speed.

    This presupposes that you have reasonable electronics technician experience and a decent digital multimeter at minimum, as a piece of test equipment. You mentioned that you are having trouble back-probing some of the wiring harness pins. You need to use suitable probes that have needlepoints on them. Or you can utilize a needle stuck into a wire of interest to determine the voltage on that wire, as long as you take care not to damage the wiring insulation.

    This for example is the test lead accessory kit that I use with my Fluke 87 DMM:
    TL81A - Fluke TL81A Deluxe Test Lead Set, 300V, Pouch, 22 Pc. (Red/Black) - at the Test Equipment Depot /fluke/images/tl81_1_w.jpg

    This problem may take many hours to figure out. If I were doing this I would use a lab power supply set to 14V to provide power to the car's 12V bus while the testing is going on. That avoids the problem of having to constantly remove and recharge the 12V battery, along with the drifting voltage levels associated with a battery's charge level declining as time passes. You would need to supply ~ 10A of current at 14V.

    However in your case, the purchase of a suitable lab power supply may be beyond your personal interest level. If so, the use of a 10A battery charger, hooked up to the 12V battery, is a perfectly legitimate practice to keep the battery charged.

    With regard to a dealership, they usually will not try to repair a problem with the wiring harness because in general their techs are not competent in that area. If a logged DTC does not point to an obvious fault then they will suggest replacing the entire vehicle wiring harness at a price of $4,000. The repair will include a substantial labor charge. They know that you will refuse such a repair, and will take the headache away from them.
     
    #32 Patrick Wong, Feb 19, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
  13. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Replace the Inverter.
     
  14. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    If you are fixing this starting from fan circuit, you should be looking at the fan control page of wiring manual.

    First check what is turning on the fans. If you find out that it’s either of the control units then you need to find some other information or look at it from some other perspective. Replacing control unit just because it’s turning the fan on is not wise. Control unit can turn the fan one for many reasons. If it’s not either of control units check that it’s not any of those switches (just on/off type sensor) that are directly connected to circuit. If it’s not them either it’s wiring harness. Then you can measure and think between what wires the problem is. And look though the wiring harness to find a spot. Then peel back the insulation and just repair wires with soldering or just re-insulating them. If you find the problem area there probably is more damage than those wires and repairing them will fix other problems as well.
     
  15. timglen

    timglen New Member

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    Valde, one reason I changed the ECM was partly because of the fans but the other was that there are issues with the ECU's communicating on the CAN bus and this was a cheap and easy test, but it looks like I need to dig in further. If I take out the 3 fan relay's neither of the fans go on. I did another video this morning and you can hear the fans (and I could feel the air from both). Looking at the wiring diagram, I would like to disconnect J4 to see if the short (maybe the cause) is before the connector or between the connector and the relays but I can't find it. This is one of the difficulties I experience doing these tests which is to find the connectors!

    I did a video this morning and it shows the fans going on but also shows how just stepping on and releasing the parking brake can change he lights on the dash.

    Patrick, thanks for the tip on the battery charger, I will get a 10 amp one, I have one now that does both 2 and 6 amps but probably not sufficient especially when the fans go on which can draw over 20 amps. I don't know which speed the fans are on but maybe I will get a feel for that the more I hear them more assuming they go to both speeds. I do have probes with needle points but that Pin 8 on E7 for the ECM is very hard to get to, maybe I should measure the appropriate pins on the relays instead. I do have a digital multimeter, not as good as a fluke (klien tools) but I think it is sufficient. I was an electronics technician back in the 70's before I started doing computer work and even worked with oscilloscopes. I even thought of getting one that connects to a laptop so I could look at the signals on the CAN bus but still not convinced that is the problem.

    Ed, I am curious about your comment especially since that is what the Toyota dealer said about it (stated in the first page of this dialog):
    An unknown fluid in the inverter and the recommendation was to replace the inverter.

    Is it possible that it could be the cause of all of these unusual behaviors? Since sometimes everything seems to work (rarely) but I have driven it with no lights on the dash and everything looking good on the display.

    I found many of them on ebay for about $200 so would be willing to give it a try if I was fairly certain that was the main issue.

    Here is the latest video:



    In the video the lights that go off after using the parking brake are the VSC and slip indicator but the VSC goes back on. Then when I power down and back up only the ABS, check engine and low tire pressure are on.

    Thanks again to everyone, this dialog is really helpful.

    Tim
     
  16. timglen

    timglen New Member

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    I just did a quick test where I removed fan relays 2 and 3 and then connected a volt meter to pin 2 of fan relay #2. When I went to IG-ON it went to 12 V, but when the radiator fan (controlled by relay #1) went on the voltage dropped to about .5 V which I assume is the signal to turn on the A/C fan. Pin 2 of relay #2 comes from A8 -- A/C Control Assembly, whereas the line that controls the radiator fan comes from the ECM, so not sure why they are going on at the same time.
     
  17. Dion Kraft

    Dion Kraft Member

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    Just a guess but if the parking brake changes things you need to remove the connector on it and retry it.
    Now the question is are there three wires hooked to the switch? How does it work? 12 volts on one leg and a ground and a reference?
    I don't have any wiring diagrams other than my 2004
     
  18. timglen

    timglen New Member

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    Good idea Dion, I found it on the wiring diagram and it shows a connector J9 (looks like just one wire), that goes from the parking brake to one pin on one of the 4 connectors on the skid control ECU, but I can't find J9. Too bad it is not possible to remove individual wires from the connectors!
     
  19. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    ECU may detect the relay coil having infinite resistance. And it may affect behavior of fan control. I haven’t really had to diagnose Prius or even other Toyotas from same vintage so I’m not sure but it’s better to do the tests with relays in place.

    I do have 100A power supply adjusted to 13.8V just for this use you can connect the car to it and voltage won’t drop.
     
  20. Dion Kraft

    Dion Kraft Member

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    Well you can just disconnect that wire from the Park Brake switch instead of trying to remove from the ECU. You can ohm that wire and see that it is not grounded or have too much resistance. If left unplugged you should see if you get more errors or not in regards to the park brake circuit and its connection to the ECU and how it handles that fault. The screwy thing is that of ONE wire can change the state of faults I suspect that maybe the ECU is even defective. Skid Control ECU?

    I am using this online wiring diagram:

    http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=163163