Need help: Gen 1, P1636, ICE no attempt to start

Hi All,

I spent the last 3 days searching the forums and educating myself on similar issues, but need just a bit or direction. I tried to be less verbose with my thread without leaving out pertinent info.

I bought another '01 Prius non running with 160k that needed a new HV battery (I have a '03 I have done extensive work to, and a '07). I re-balanced and refurbished a good working HV unit, tested it and installed it in the car. Upon turning the ignition on, I was getting a P1632 DTC with no square around the shift indicator LED display. I found the typical issue with the metal detente shift guide broken and solenoid not engaging on the steering column. Fixed that and further forum research pointed me to the HV ECU, where 2 of the plugs were disconnected. I installed a brand new 12vdc battery to eliminate any further error codes. The shift display now showing the indicator square.
I ran TecStream on laptop and checked all the systems out. HV battery was showing all blocks above 15.70, not varying more than +/-.3v between blocks. DC voltage for aux battery was 12.6 via a VOM, however I did not check when ignition on to see if inverter was creating charge voltage to it. I tried clearing DTC, but P1636 is stubborn.
Drivers display shows the red "brake" light, ABS light and Check Engine light (see poor attached photo). I can hear the ABS pump going and trying to create pressure. Brake pedal goes to floor at first, but eventually gets firm. I noticed the GUI display showing HV battery at 50%, but the display itself had video noise in the form of thin wavy lines moving from top to bottom.
My gut tells me there could be an inverter problem, but need some more input and direction. perhaps Patrick Wong or Bob Wilson can chime in as they have been indispensable help.
Thanks in advance.

 

Thank you Bob and Chap,

Sorry, I meant P1636, no such thing as P1632.

I will review the HTE+/- circuit as you suggest. Is it possible that the ABS system ECU is preventing the HV ECU from issuing a signal to the inverter to M2 to fire the ICE? I did test the 12VDC with the key on and it read 12.4VDC, while with key off it is 12.6. I am not that familiar with ABS systems to make a diagnosis. And, it does appear that someone tried working on the car prior to me getting it. I have noticed that the HV battery is indicating at 1/4 now and I am afraid to go much further as I would need to rip the battery out and charge the cells back up to operating voltage as I do not have a grid charger. Too bad, as it is very clean and I may have to cut my losses and move on to another car??? I have the factory Toyota manual, but some of it is a bit above my head. It may help me to have a flow chart as to what steps and checks the car goes through to get to a ready state, then to a ICE starting state.

Thanks again for the input. I was afraid I would get no response there for a while....

 

Hi Chap,

I am sorry if I did not clarify that the P1636 is gone. That was fixed by the loose connectors on the HV ECU.

I did more troubleshooting today with Techstream and was able to glean more info from the ECU's.
1) By clearing the DTC's I was able to get the vehicle to "attempt" a start. When the system turned on MC1 to start the ICE, there was a faint high pitched noise (voltage??) and a slight grinding, then nothing. I could feel some torque being applied, but it almost sounds like an issue with the planetary gear system being locked up in the transaxle??? Anyway, something mechanical preventing the turning of the engine. Triangle came on and P3120 Info code 240.
2) ABS light flashing- C1259, C1213-ABS system is having a fit???
3) EMPS-C1571,1572- Speed sensors/Power steering. Have no experience other than replacing speed sensors on the wheels of other vehicles. Steering assist is working as the steering wheel is easy to move when key is on.
4) Immobilizer Malfunction-B2799-I am guessing that because the HV ECU was disconnected for a long time, the key needs to be re-paired to the HV control ECU??

I have a good used transaxle on standby which I will exchange. I have done a Gen 2 Transaxle with the engine in the car. On Gen 1 do I need to remove both engine and trans? Is it easier?? What are my options?

Yes, lots to chew on. Thank you in advance for the help to the growing complexity.

 

Thank you Bob for chiming in. The car does roll when in "N" just fine. This is how we got it into the shop. I'll drop the pan and inspect for particles. I wish there were an easy way to turn the ICE as to eliminate a thrown rod or something. Since this was a $400 car, it wouldn't devastate me if I had to cut my losses. I can always pull the HV battery and use it elsewhere or sell it. I was hoping to help my savings account out by fixing it and selling for a few extra bucks.

 

I will try the crank pulley. Some import engines have a tiny bolt that will just shear off it attempted to turn. I'll start there. I have plenty of engines and transmissions available from Rancho Cordova in Sacramento. I already have a trans, so I could always get an engine for $200-300. I do still however need to address the ABS issues.

Thanks again Bob!

 

LOL! Guess that would be definitive!

 

Hi Bob,

Ok took the day off to replace the in-tank fuel pump our family '03 Suburban, finished that and am on to the Gen 1 Prius.
I tried your suggestion of tuning the crank pulley and it was as solid as a rock, no movement. The wheels are removed on both sides and spun freely (opposite side spun in opposite direction) with shifter in Park. SO, I drained the engine oil and inspected it for particles, etc. It was clean. Pulled the coils and plugs, they looked good and no sign of H2O. I drained the transaxle oil and it was dark as usual, but no particles. What is the possibility of something jammed within the MG2 portion of the transaxle, or are we looking at a seized engine? I have never run across a bad engine in these, but I guess there is always a first? What would be a more likely explanation?? What are some more tests I can perform to determine the issue??

Thanks in advance.

 

Allright, that's what I suspected. Time to call the junkman then. Not sure I want to put the time, $ and energy into fixing it. Yes the plugs were out and the A/C pump is free.

Thanks again for the insight.