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2006 ac compressor won't come on to accept charge

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by phoebeisis, May 31, 2016.

  1. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Member

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    Help
    2006 Prius 104,000 miles-
    9 months ago the AC started blowing "not cold" air
    I put a can of suitable 134a WITH the correct oil in-and it blew cold for about 6 weeks
    then the weather became a bit cooler-and my son drives it-
    so I ignored it as it cooled less well
    Yesterday I tried to recharge it again-no go-the AC literally seemed to be blowing HOT air
    the compressor wouldn't come on
    Guessing so much 134a is gone that it won't come on-just like a regular AC
    How can I trick the compressor to come on so it can accept the charge
    Yes I'm aware the orange covered cables are 200+ volts-and could kill me-
    No I don't want to die-so I'll follow any instructions that involve electrical connections-carefully
    Frankly I might just chicken out
    Oh-I can't -couldn't find any compressor fuse??
    I found a A/C fuse under the dash-but it was just 10-15 amps-12 V amps probably-so no way is it the compressor-110 watts-?? Must take 1000 or more watts to drive that compressor
    Thanks
    Charlie
     
  2. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Your leaking. Stop trying to turn it on. Running the compressor on a low or no charge will damage it. Take it to an ac shop and they'll die test it and find the leak. You don't list where you live but in the USA most ac shops are very experienced in Prius.
     
  3. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Member

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    Ed

    Thanks for the reply.
    I should have been more clear.
    If I can't fix it-I'm not going to bring it to a shop-$1000-$1500 to have it "maybe fixed"
    In NOLA- most of the shops I have dealt with-including dealers- are dishonest and not competent.
    They "might fix it" but they might not
    and on leaks-10 yo A/C in NOLA run 9 months a year-it is on its last legs anyway
    so "breaking it worse" isn't much of a concern.
    But mostly I can't won't pay $1300 plus to get an A/C "maybe repaired"
    Now the last dealer we went to-about 3-4 years ago-traction battery "died' just 44 days INSIDE warranty-they did a good job-
    but the service writer started things out by telling me "it probably wasn't the battery-and it probably was something "out of warranty"\
    despite my telling him the code-forget what it was-and having the screen giving the "I'm dying get to dealer" warning
    anyway they did a good job-no charge
    but i general ALL dealers-the service writers- attempt to screw you -with dire safety warnings -and out right lies
    so I NEVER will use a dealer except for jobs that can't be done anywhere else
    and in general-won't bring it to a shop
    In any case-If I can't fix the AC-or figure it is too dangerous too complicated requires specialized tools that are too expensive-or too likely to "break the car" it just won't get fixed-
    haven't paid a shop for any work in maybe 20 years-
    the Prius AC might just have to remain "broken" until I get around to it
     
    edthefox5 likes this.
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Hi Charlie,

    You're asking the all the right questions, you don't want to die, you'd prefer not to b0rk your car, and ideally you'd like the A/C to work, and those three things together are probably worth at least fifteen dollars to you, so you're an ideal candidate to go straight to techinfo.toyota.com and look in your repair manual and find the answers to everything you're wondering about.

    Probably the compressor won't start because so much refrigerant has leaked that the minimum pressure isn't made. Some will need to be added first, to at least get the minimum pressure for the compressor to start before adding the rest. Follow the instructions in the manual, they cover how to do that, and then change your connections for completing the charge with the compressor going.

    But find the leak! Sounds like you're losing a pound or more of refrigerant over a matter of months, that's not an "oh, just top up now and then" situation.

    It would be best to find and fix the leak (could be as simple as an O ring somewhere, or not), then draw a good vacuum on the system with the right equipment, then recharge.

    The manual also shows the exact way to determine when to stop charging. It's not quite intuitive because of the subcooling condenser used in the Prius, which means the point where the sight-glass bubbles disappear isn't quite when you're done.

    -Chap
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    By the way ... get the trouble codes from the heater/AC (also described in the manual, also there should be threads on PriusChat with the method, do a search).

    Re-reading your first post, there isn't really clear evidence of a leak yet ... only that it feels like the system is blowing hot and the compressor isn't running ... should look at codes before trying to guess why that is.

    -Chap
     
  6. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Member

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    Chap
    Thanks-just what I needed.
    Good instructions I can print out-and keep at hand so
    1)no dead me
    2) no dead car
    3) with luck an ac that will cool


    Oh-I must have been unclear.
    There is certainly a leak
    when I charged it 9-10 months ago-I charged it-full can(10 ounces -9.5 ounces of 134a + .5 ounces of high diaelectric lube all came in one can-for hybrid vehicles)
    it immediately went from "not cool" to cold-as it was being charged-literally minutes-just like a "normal car ac with a low charge)
    it was fine for 3-4 weeks-then slowly became less and less cool-but my son drives it-and it was winter-so I ignored it
    when I went to recharge it-it wouldn't accept a charge-compressor obviously wasn't on.

    I will see if I can rehab my scan gauge-it has been on and off working lately 11 years old,so.. good excuse to get another to get codes-and read mpg on the other vehicle
    Thanks-just what I needed
    Charlie
    ps in NOLA an ac that lasts 10 years-is the exception 100,000 miles is 5000 hours-4000 with AC on-car a/c take a beating-so 4000 hours service-seals o-ring have taken a real beating-bumpy streets lotta service twisting bumping of every joint-
    it held a charge for several weeks-so maybe it isn't an actual hole in a "hard part"