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Smoke from rear interior after acceleration

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Spenser, Aug 4, 2016.

  1. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Those are the prices you'll usually get, because the usual reason people are calling about their battery is age and degraded capacity, which tends to affect all the modules at around the same time, so when that's the problem, nobody's very keen on replacing single modules, because it will just turn into a game of whack-a-mole.

    You've got a more unusual, distinct situation. You just have one module that got scorched, probably because of a badly torqued nut or a manufacturing defect. In your case, I agree with JC91006 that it might be very reasonable to replace just that module (and check all the bus nuts carefully, and torque them all carefully to the right spec).

    If it were me, I'd probably get the replacement-parts kit (04003-35147) which will include new bus straps and wiring and nuts and such, pretty complete hardware overhaul for about $100, plus one module, for whatever those are going for these days, $50ish?

    The trick is to determine the average capacity of the good modules you've got, and try to get as close as you can to that with the replacement module. That's what can complicate an otherwise simple job.

    But for that matter, I'd take out whichever module seemed to be implicated in the scorching, and test it. In my mind, this kind of scorching is at least as likely to have been caused by a poor bus-strap connection as by anything with the module itself. If it seems undamaged / not melted or misshapen / any soot cleans right off, and if it tests out as a good capacity match to your other modules, you might be better off just putting it back in (with careful terminal cleaning, new bus straps, and undivided attention to the nut tightening torque).

    -Chap
     
    Robert Holt and andrewclaus like this.
  2. Spenser

    Spenser New Member

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    Definitely don't want to be chasing down bad modules for months to come. What is the best way to test the capacity of the or the modules?
     
  3. Spenser

    Spenser New Member

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    Also- what would cause me to need a new computer? A couple days have passed and I have seen a few videos on replacement. I cant figure out why I would need to. The car starts and runs = computer works. What've have seen is no start/not running = need new computer. Any idea? Is it that simple?
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you need to read the battery rebuilding threads. see the one by member, '@ryousideways'
     
  5. Spenser

    Spenser New Member

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    Got some more info from dealer notes "found orange connector at hv ecru melted. One of the cells in the hv battery has melted and split open". Is this still a diy repair? After taking to dealership, i now have the triangle of death.
     
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i honestly can't believe you're still driving it. do you carry a fire extinguisher?
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Hmm, possibly, depending on your dedication. Definitely a new ECU is in order, as well as the rebuild hardware kit (which includes the wire harness with the orange connector that melted). Plus at least one module to replace the split/melted one, plus your time and attention to detail in checking the condition of all modules to find any other injured ones, and figure out what the average capacity is, and try to obtain replacements roughly matched in capacity.

    Plus cleaning everything really well, because that connector going foom probably left sooty gunk everywhere that may be conductive and lead to ground fault codes.

    If that sounds like a fun DIY project, then maybe it is, and if it sounds like a PITA, well, that too.

    -Chap

    Edit: wait, wait, wait, you're talking about a 2007. i forgot, the part number for a rebuild hardware kit that I gave you upthread was for a Gen 1. You'll have to look up the parts you need for a Gen 2 battery.

    I've added your incident to the battery fires at ECU sense connector thread (which started as a Gen 1 thread, but hasn't stayed that way).
     
    #27 ChapmanF, Aug 9, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2016
  8. Spenser

    Spenser New Member

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    When I google 04003-35147 - it comes up with "Toyota junction block kit" - is that the same thing? It is $100 like you stated. Also found an ECU with associated parts and wires for $100 and modules are ~$50.
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Do not order that kit. It is for a 2001-2003 Prius and will not fit your 2007. I had a brain fart.

    Just go to any of the online dealers with the battery components illustration for a 2007, and look up the front bus cable assembly with the voltage sense wires.

    -Chap
     
  10. Spenser

    Spenser New Member

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    I limped it down the road to the dealer, it is now back at my house via dolly tow.
    04 05 06 07 08 09 Prius Hybrid Battery Wire Wiring Harness Cell Bolt Strip HV | eBay - this do the trick?
     
  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That's the stuff. If it were me, I'd buy new. If you go used, look it over carefully, referring to the connector condition photos in the 'battery fires at ecu sense connector' thread.

    -Chap
     
  12. Spenser

    Spenser New Member

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    Pulled the cover off. I didn't see any melting along orange wire to the ecu. The green wire on top, not sure what it does, is definitely fried. Tested all modules around 7.77 volts, the one that blew is #25 from the ECU. Both modules along side the blown one I think are toast as well from the high heat, #24 measuring 6.43 volts and #26 measuring 6.45. Definitely reading the rebuild thread to figure out exactly how to proceed from here.
     

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  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Hey, I cringe a little at that photo of bare finger next to vent tube and blown-open module. I guess you haven't been unlucky (or you'd have noticed by now), but potassium hydroxide turns skin, eyes, etc. into dead goo.

    -Chap
     
  14. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Has your battery ever been repaired? I think replacing the damaged modules would be enough to fix your problem
     
  15. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    I think that green wire is one of the four temperature sensors.
     
  16. Spenser

    Spenser New Member

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    Ahh! You can barely see it but my finger is actually hovering in front of it, it is a pretty smelly mess. Definitely had eye protection and rubber gloves on.
     
  17. Spenser

    Spenser New Member

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    I am 2nd owner, there isn't anything on the carfax. The dealer misrepresented the condition of the battery and said it was recently checked out. What else usually goes when the modules burst like this?
     
  18. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    look at the serial number of the modules, the one that caught fire and the ones around them (so total of 2 additional per side, 5 total). write them down and post them.....I'm curious if those are original to the pack or replaced modules.
     
  19. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    I have seen modules with the tops blown off that still work! You have a whole bunch of work ahead of you.

    Brad
     
  20. Spenser

    Spenser New Member

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    I replaced 3 of the modules - main one was melted through to the bottom, in the tray beneath the battery there was remnants of the insides. Both modules on each side were also melted.

    Question is, this was 2 modules over from the main problem, it has slight contact and melting on the aluminum on the side. It has normal voltages inline with the rest of the back but not sure if it is damaged. Thinking of putting in as the last battery in the pack. Should I use it or replace it?? On the 1st image you can see some burn marks. Thanks JC91006 for the replacements.
     

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