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AC blowing warm

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Higuxish, Apr 19, 2024.

  1. Higuxish

    Higuxish New Member

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    So I just replaced my Inverter Coolant Pump earlier this week after a P0A93 failure, and noticed at that time that my AC was no longer getting cold. However, the AC still isn't getting cold. I ran the AC self-diagnostic (cycle+auto buttons while putting car in ready mode), and got 3 codes, 23, 33, and 43. I believe 33 and 43 can be ignored, as I can switch between floor, face, and windshield modes, and feel that it is actually switching between them.

    Someone had recommended clearing the codes and seeing if that made it work, but I don't know how. Should I just unplug the 12 volt, and see if that does it? I don't have an obd2 that can read the ac codes & clear them, just the free dr. Prius app right now.

    If clearing the codes doesn't fix it, what would be the next appropriate step? Should I just take it to a dealer or other place (like Firestone, idk where else might be better) to get it recharged and checked for leaks, or is there something I can do myself first? Temperatures here are still 60s-80s, so it isn't too bad yet, but in another month or 2 I might start melting.
     
  2. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Code 23 is an unexpected status from the refrigerant pressure switch if I remember correctly. Usual cause is a refrigerant leak.

    Unless you are already tooled up for hybrid HVAC stuff there is unlikely to be anything else you can do at home. You could verify the pressure switch output with a meter I guess, but everything after that is better left to a pro.
     
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    If you can find somebody in the parking lot of a Walmart or an auto parts store that's putting Freon in their car in the parking lot with one of those big black cans with a pressure gauge on top of it after they get done putting the gas in their car and maybe they've emptied out most of the refrigerant you can use that gauge on the fat silver tube which is marked with a gray cap that says l meaning that is the low pressure side of the HVAC system of the car when you push the gauge and tube of that black can onto your low side fitting and the air conditioner is not running you're looking for right near 100 lb that'll be at the top of the gauge in the red area Do you see that You push the Walmart gauge from the can onto your low pressure tube and then the gauge goes sky high to the red or even almost off the scale which will be about 100 lb If that's the case now turn your car on with the gauge still connected put the air conditioner on full blast and the temperature on LO no numbers and the yellow line over the AC letters on the MFD when you do that hopefully you have a friend that will do that The minute he pushes the button for the air conditioning to have a yellow line above the letters AC on your MFD you should hear the compressor start turning You can put your hand on it to verify it and the minute that compressor starts turning you should see that gauge move from the red down below the green You can literally watch the gauge go from 90 70 60 40 at the green and down into the 20s almost at that time you should be able to put your hand on the fat silver tube that your gauge tube is connected to and that should start to be getting cold has any of this happened? If you see the gauge move as described the compressor is moving the freon and is created a low and high side now that the compressor is on The gauge should slowly rise up to around the green level which is between 30 and 40 on the low side generally the refrigeration cycle is taking place at those pressure readings and the low side tube should start to be getting noticeably colder than it is outside your hands should be feeling cold If this is not happening then problems are probably beyond your capability at the present time.
     
  4. Higuxish

    Higuxish New Member

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    Well, I hooked up a gauge and read 0. Completely, totally, empty. I ended up dumping a full can of pure r134a in, 340g, could see it start running through the sight glass, and heard the compressor kick on and get cold. So either I lost all the refrigerant due to the loss of the inverter pump, or a leak happened to cause me to lose everything at basically the same time, as I'm pretty sure I had ac a few weeks before the pump code popped up. I think I will wait and see what happens from here, if I lose ac again semi-soon, I will take it to a dealer and decide if it is worth paying for a repair, or just live without ac until I sell the car. I kmow freon isn't good for the environment, so I won't just keep filling every time.
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Fill it until the sight glass gets almost clear while it's running at the near 40 lb pressure on the low side and making cold and then see how many days that takes to leak out to where the compressor doesn't start anymore should be about 3 or 4 days
     
  6. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    No, that definitely did not happen.
    That definitely happened. The fix therefore is to find the leak and repair it then recharge it.
     
  7. Higuxish

    Higuxish New Member

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    Welp, ac is definitely knackered. There is still freon in the lines, and the compressor is kicking on. However, the air never got cold. Actually got back home and found a green puddle on the passenger's side of the garage, so there is a significant leak somewhere in the system. Guess I'll need to find the time to.take it in somewhere. Not sure if I should find a mechanic who can inspect it, or just take it to the dealer instead though.
     
  8. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Lots of auto AC places can handle hybrids now. The important thing is that they have a separate set of tools for hybrid cars.

    These systems are extremely sensitive to refrigerant level. If you don't get the fill within a few grams of the target, you don't get much cold and there is risk of the compressor damaging itself.

    So first, get the leak fixed. Then get it evacuated/dried and proven to hold tight. Then pay somebody to give it a very exact fill.

    Also beware, there are a lot of counterfeit parts out there. We've already seen/read about knockoff condensers that don't have as many fins per inch, and it winds up making a big difference when the mercury hits triple digits.
     
  9. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Run your hand under the bottom of your compressor or if you have the luxury of having a lift raise the car and look at the bottom of the compressor there is a relief valve on the bottom of a lot of these

    Like I said on the bottom of the compressor run your hand down there is the green now on your hand The thing might have been filled too much and blew out the overflow by somebody not knowing how to fill the system so that would put the green leak like on the front edge of the car on the passenger side That's where the compressor is I'm just saying if you can park the car back in the same place you can look and see where the stuff is coming from the green and roll the car up on ramps and find it yourself delete that is I mean it's got to be right there in the engine compartment firewall area that doesn't really go anywhere else It's a very short system from the compressor to the firewall the metal hoses and all this not terrifically long runs.

    That would be great if it's all outside of the cabin chalk one up for the team I guess easy fix no matter what it is if it's under the hood once you're behind that dashboard the car's almost not worth it It's a labor of love for sure.
     
    #9 Tombukt2, Apr 23, 2024
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 24, 2024