Here are my mods on my 24 prime we got last weekend.... Wheel spacers (1") Roof spoiler UFO noise eliminated Dashcam pass through power adapter for radar detector Blacked out front fishmouth (glossy plastidip) Front splitter Door sill protection (cheap amazon issue) 3D max floor liners Torklift stealth hitch Gas hood struts Center console organizer Seat gap fillers Canvasback dog liners for cargo area Debadged (except for prime badge) I got a couple more in mind, but car is mostly setup now.
It's a super easy install - maybe 15 minutes. I don't which kit AddMoreGas used, but I picked up one from Amazon for around $30. (It's the only 3rd party thing from Amazon/etc. I've added to my car.) Links to Amazon pages are broken on this site, so just search there for: "Hood Struts/Lift Supports for 2022- Prius XW60 | with Installation Guide" I will say I'm a tiny bit concerned about the long-term effects of using hood struts on a hood not designed for them. I'm taking my car to TCCN next month for its 2-year inspection and service, and I plan to ask AMD if he's seen any negative effects of these in his 15-year career. I'm a little concerned that the hood could warp/bend over time or the paint could fail due to repeated flexing it wasn't designed for. If he gives it a clean bill of health, I might try replacing the aftermarket parts with OEM Toyota/Lexus parts over time. It will be a bit of a bother finding the right length/strength struts and the right shaped brackets, but I suspect I could figure something out with a little trial and error.
Amazon.com: Hood Struts/Lift Supports for 2022- Prius XW60 | with Installation Guide | Auto Modification Parts | 1-Year Quality Warranty (Iron (Black)) : Automotive Cheap and easy mod. Install is straightforward, with common sense. Instructions don't say to remove the factory manual prop rod - however it did interfere with hood shutting after installing new strut so removed it. I only installed one side and kept the other as spare though it ships with mounts and struts for both sides if you desire. 20250320_175514-COLLAGE by AddMoreGas posted Mar 20, 2025 at 7:03 PM
A few more updates - 16. Added a mix of CLD and CCF (assorted left over material from various other sound projects) to the inside of front wheel arches to dampen some tire roar. VERY noticeable positive difference, especially on rough road surfaces. 17. Installed an auto brake hold kit that I sourced from Japan - it is supposed to automatically turn on the brake hold feature every time you clip your seatbelt instead of making the driver manually press the button each time. Install was super easy, however, I am having difficulty with the initialization procedure. Its not working yet, will update once I troubleshoot. 20250420_171517-COLLAGE by AddMoreGas posted May 2, 2025 at 10:34 AM 20250420_171529-COLLAGE by AddMoreGas posted May 2, 2025 at 10:34 AM 20250502_093214-COLLAGE by AddMoreGas posted May 2, 2025 at 10:34 AM
I am following your build. On Auto Brake Hold Kit: From my research we have two options: * BLITZ Brake Hold Jumper for Toyota Prius 2023-2026. * Toyota Prius 60 Series PHEV Compatible Auto Brake Hold Kit (enlargecorp - from Japan) I ordered the one from Japan, It does not work because of the placement of the HOLD button. The USA version is the button on the left, and the Japanese model the button on the right. I emailed the team at modifiedtoyotaparts (which sells the BLITZ Brake Hold Jumper for Toyota Prius 2023-2026) but they did not confirm if their product will work on our cars. Let me know if you dig up anything in your research.
Very good information! Yes, I too ordered it from Japan. Dang. Let me email the eBay seller (japanese speaker and very tough to communicate in English with) and ask if there is a simple fix such as switching a wire/terminal or similar. My research indicated the blitz item needed us to splice a wire in the airbag line (there's a youtube video that shows the install, all in Japanese). Which is why I stayed away from it. Speaking of modifiedtoyotaparts, I too tried to reach them multiple times and no answer. In fact, I ordered a rear underbrace for the car several weeks ago and they are MIA.
I ordered my front splitter from MTP, had a similar experience. It took a few emails and phone calls to get ahold of them, and then a few more weeks for the part to get shipped. I did eventually get my part from them but it seems like whoever’s in charge of their imports likes to take their sweet time with it Importing stuff, especially made-to-order parts can take a while, but the radio silence in the meantime is pretty disconcerting
@galexandr I don't think this is correct. My USDM hold button is on the right side of the electronic parking brake. I also checked the Japanese instructions that came with the kit and it shows the JDM model also having hold button on the right side of parking brake. It could be that something else is different in the wiring arrangement between USDM and JDM, but it's not the HOLD button location. Untitled by AddMoreGas posted May 7, 2025 at 11:16 AM
Interesting, mine is different: Here is how it looks on my car (attached) - the "hold" on the left side. NOTE: i have the XLE version, for Prime there might be additional buttons or different placement.
PHEVs have four equal size buttons. HEVs have one big button on the right side and two smaller buttons on the left. PHEV USA: Auto EV/HV ------- Brake Hold EV/HV Mode ------ VSC Off PHEV Japan: Brake Hold -------- Auto EV/HV VSC Off ---------- EV/HV Mode HEV USA: EV Mode --------- VSC Off Brake Hold HEV Japan: EV Mode -------- Brake Hold VSC Off
I'm positive a module made for a Japanese car could be made to work in a US car(or HEV to PHEV) just by repinning the connectors. But I'd need a little more info to help. I don't have access to the Japanese wiring diagrams, so I don't know how to compare the two to see what's different. Here's what I've got: Parking Brake Switch (14-pin connector - 7x2 layout) HEV (USA) 1 - SWI2 - green - brake ECU 2 - SWO2 - black - brake ECU 3 - CSW - light green - brake ECU 4 - EVSW - gray - hybrid ECU 5 - DMS+ - light blue - hybrid ECU 6 - BH - violet - brake ECU 7 - E - white/black - ground 8 - SWI1 - pink - brake ECU 9 - SWO1 - light blue - brake ECU 10 - ILL+ - red - illumination 11 - DRV - white - hybrid ECU 12 - DMS- - beige - hybrid ECU 13 - unused 14 - ILL- - pink - illumination PHEV (USA) 1 - SWI2 - green - brake ECU 2 - SWO2 - black - brake ECU 3 - EVMS - gray - hybrid ECU 4 - BH - violet - brake ECU 5 - DMS+ - light blue - hybrid ECU 6 - EVHV - blue - hybrid ECU 7 - E - white/black - ground 8 - SWI1 - pink - brake ECU 9 - SWO1 - light blue - brake ECU 10 - ILL+ - red - illumination 11 - DRV - white - hybrid ECU 12 - DMS- - beige - hybrid ECU 13 - CSW - light green - brake ECU 14 - ILL- - pink - illumination I'm going to guess that pin 6/4 is the problem. BH probably stands for Brake Hold. It's pin 6 on the PHEV and pin 4 on the HEV.
Wow, nice work Hammer. (cant get MC Hammer out of my head now) I think the issue for me is HEV to PHEV. The Japanese kit I got is from a "60 series prius" (assuming HEV: Auto Brake Hold Kit 60 Series Prius (January 2020~) Automatic Brake Hold | eBay) and even though the button placement is the same as my USDM prime, it doesn't work. To clarify, the in-line harness is installed, and even though the pin mappings are incorrect, car functions as normal. I can click brake hold "on" and "off" manually like always. Car just doesn't think there is anything in-line. This is a bit confusing to me, I would expect car to freak out and throw errors if pin mapping is so different. I did a side by side of the mappings you found above. The yellow pins are different. How does one "repin" the HEV harness to a PHEV harness? I am happy to give it a go... Unpin Wires #3, #4, #6 and #13 Take #3 wire and insert into #13 slot Take #4 wire and insert into #3 slot Take #6 wire and insert into #4 slot That leaves out the "6 - EVHV - blue - hybrid ECU" wire that PHEV will expect, but is absent in the HEV harness. ???? HEV PHEV Pin Mapping by AddMoreGas posted May 8, 2025 at 9:57 AM
My guess is that the in-line harness is almost completely dumb. All it's doing is passing through whatever is sent on those wires. The only thing different is that it sends a signal on pin 6 on startup. The car reads that as you pressing the brake hold button. After that, the in-line harness is completely inert until it loses power, which will cause it to cycle back on the next startup. But what you want is for it to send the signal on pin 4 on startup, not pin 6. So what you'll need to do is swap the wires on the in-line harness that correspond with the violet and bright blue wires in the car's harness. All you need to do is make sure the in-line harness is sending the startup signal on pin 4 instead of pin 6. Also make sure there are no open spaces in your in-line harness. If there's an open pin, I bet you can't turn off your VSC. Not a big deal if you can't, but I bet that's what the CSW wire is for. If it was for the emergency brake button, you'd see a fault on your dash. There are two ways to do what you need to do. You can either try to disassemble the connectors to extract the tiny metal terminals and swap them. There will be some kind of clip that's part of the connector that you'll have to remove or pop up. It depends on the connector. Just look for a part of the connector that looks like it might move. You'll almost certainly need a pick or extremely tiny screwdriver. That's the easy part. Then you'll need to find or make a pin removal tool. This is a very thin, but still strong and rigid, piece of metal that has a handle you can hold onto. Using one of these takes practice, skill, and luck. Ask me how I know. lol. Honestly, if you've never done anything like this before, I recommend option 2. Option 2 is the brute force method. As long as there's enough wire to work with in the in-line harness, just cut the two wires and swap them on the car side of the in-line harness. Snip both wires, strip each of the ends, and use a butt connector to swap the wires and crimp them. So sort of like this: Before: Car---<violet>---Connector---<some color1>---middle of the in-line harness---<some color1>---Switch Car---<blue>---Connector---<some color2>---middle of the in-line harness---<some color2>---Switch After: Car---<violet>---Connector---<some color1>---Butt Connector---<some color2>---middle of the in-line harness---<some color2>---Switch Car---<blue>---Connector---<some color2>---Butt Connector---<some color1>---middle of the in-line harness---<some color1>---Switch I hope that makes some sort of sense.
@Hammersmith @galexandr I have good news to report! I got this to work and now have auto auto brake hold. I have an elaborate terminal extraction set that I have used in the past, however its a major pain in the butt. So I directly went to "Option 2" for this job (I am good with a soldering gun so I tidied it up nice at the end). I first tried hammer's suggestion and swapped pins 4 & 6. This did not work. All it did was switch my charge hold & brake hold button functions (photo of my 2024 Prime console pasted below just for reference). I then got to thinking (don't often). The 'trigger' wire for this kit comes from steering column. It gets triggered whenever you clip your seatbelt on (seatbelt confirm must be in steering column for whatever reason). And that trigger simulates pressing the auto brake hold button. In the kit I received from Japan (I think there are variations of this kit based on HEV/PHEV/XLE/JDM/USDM etc.), that trigger wire is easily identifiable grey wire and it was originally spliced into wire 3 in the inline harness. I cut it from wire 3, soldered wire three to itself (to complete that circuit), and then soldered the trigger into wire 6. This is where the chart hammer shared above was invaluable, knowing my USDM Prime brake hold was wire 6. It now works as designed. Every time driver clips their seatbelt, it enables auto brake hold (seems to have a 2-3 second delay). <rant> Listen Toyota: a convenience feature is only a convenience if driver doesn't have to think and take action on it all the time. Tesla does this well. </end rant> So regardless of which of these inline piggyback kits you buy from Japan, as long as you use hammer's chart above for your USDM car and splice the trigger wire into your corresponding brake hold wire, you are good to go. $108 is short money for this convenience, but as always, YMMV. https://youtube.com/shorts/W0Gus5Nyxv8?si=bGSwyrAszFe0YBRf PXL_20250509_132117299.MP by AddMoreGas posted May 9, 2025 at 11:04 AM PXL_20250509_130754233.MP~2 by AddMoreGas posted May 9, 2025 at 11:04 AM
