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'02 Prius, Not starting, P3125 Code

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Jerry G., Oct 7, 2014.

  1. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Hi out there,

    Ok, Not only am I a newbie to this forum, but somewhat of a newbie to the Prius'. My wife has a '03 that has been great. No issues. I am a excellent mechanic, on conventional cars and motors. Here's my story:

    Bought the car used and working last week. Put in a new 12v Group 26 battery w/conversion. I verified the 12v battery was at 12.8v and when engine was running, 13.6v to charge the battery. Car was starting and driving wonderful for about 600 miles. No shuttering, no shaky starts. Mileage was about 38.6. Anyway, yesterday was driving and all of a sudden the warning Triangle comes on, Hybrid system icon comes up and the engine goes off. I was able to drive the car about 1/2 mile on the traction battery back to my work. I happened to have a code reader handy and it reads a P3125, Inverter. I realize there are sub codes that further diagnose the issue, but I don't have that type of OBDII reader although mine is a very expensive model. Anyway, I reset the code and got the car to start. Motor begins to go up in RPM and throws the code again. I shut it off, reset the code, try to start the car and I feel it slightly jump forward, engine does not start, then throws the warning code again. I did notice the traction battery is at 25%. I do this two more times trying to get the engine to start before I call the tow company. BTW, the car rolled easy, so I don't think its the MG2 is bad, although correct me if i'm wrong but doesn't Mg1 start the engine?

    Oh, incidently, also the ignition key does not release either. The key release solenoid is energized unless I unplug the 12v battery, then I can get my key out.

    Any insight would be GREATLY appreciated before I recklessly start throwing parts at this.
    Thank you very much in advance.
    Jerry
     
  2. LEVE

    LEVE Member

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    You're going to need a Prius Aware scanner such as a MiniVic or an Xguage II to recover the sub-coded and further pinpoint the problem. Lots of the member here buy the MiniVic (which comes with the Toyota Tech Stream Software), it's attached to a Windows laptop (preferably WinXP).
     
  3. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Thanks! So the Mini VIC is the 2.0 USB cable, which is about $25 as I researched. I have any number of laptops I can use (I'm in IT) but the Toyota Tech Stream Software, you are saying it comes with the cable? Just making sure.

    Thanks!
     
  4. LEVE

    LEVE Member

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    Yes, the Toyota software does come with the MiniVic... it's on a small CD included with the MiniVic.
     
  5. Stevewoods

    Stevewoods Senior Member

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    Sort of. You can actually download the software at no cost from a number of places -- usually a dropbox that some helpful person has posted a link to on a Toyota forum. And the cable, as I assume you know is more than just a standard USB.

    All you really need is the cable. If the software comes with it, fine. Otherwise, as I said, you can find it across the web.
     
  6. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Great Thanks for the help. Just ordered the cable. I'll look for the software online somewhere and load it as those mini CD's are hard on some drives. I also ordered a wireless OBDII to use on my iPhone for other vehicles.
     
  7. Stevewoods

    Stevewoods Senior Member

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    I think the versions are up into the 9.XXX now, but for my car, I just used the one linked here....which is a 7.XXX
    I will put the link in the next post, since I am just one post shy of being able to post links...
     
  8. Stevewoods

    Stevewoods Senior Member

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  9. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Thanks Steve, Appreciate the help. I found a 9,XXXversion on dropbox and got a copy of it. I'll load it tonight and play with it. I got the faster shipping on the cable so I can get it sooner. Hope I don't have trouble with getting it to work. Went to TundraTalk also.
     
  10. Stevewoods

    Stevewoods Senior Member

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    It's been awhile since I installed it, but lots of helpful instructions floating around. But IIRC, the thing that bedeviled me was that BEFORE you install the Techstream driver, make sure the USB cord is plugged into your computer. Don't plug it into the car or anything...maybe your computer knowhow is way beyond mine and that's a "duh" for you, but for me.....

    I did not do this and it took me a couple of hours of troubleshooting to figure out the problem.
     
  11. slimfrancis

    slimfrancis Member

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    I've had a few 3125 codes in a few priuses and they were both a bad stator coil. Such as:
     
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  12. royfrontenac

    royfrontenac Member

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    Once you have the sub code I have a manual that describes what the sub code means and I may be able to send it to you in pdf form. The manual is a service manual(pdf) and may help you with other problems in the future. My e-mail is ([email protected] ), I have not tried to send a pdf file and may need help with the procedure. I own three 2001 prius that I have repaired for various problems over the last year. I personally have not encountered the 3025 code so can not give you advise at this time.
    The high voltage battery charges the 12 v battery through a dc to dc converter, the stuck key could kill both the 12v and hv battery. If you can get the car to start let it charge up the high voltage battery (before that charge your 12 volt battery from a separate charger), reset the code and see if it comes back. When the 12v and high voltage batteries are low many strange codes come up so do not put too much faith in them until both batteries are in a well charged condition. Best of luck.

    Roy from Canada
     
  13. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Thank you all for your help. I received my MiniVIC and downloaded the software onto a laptop. Last evening I was able to run the program on the Prius and do a health scan on all systems. Absolutely no problem loading or getting the drivers to work for the OBDII dongle or the laptop.

    Short of figuring out the software, The codes that came up on the health scan and system scans were P3125, C1259 (ABS,VSC, TRAC) and a B1100 (SRS Airbag). As far as sub codes, if there were any, I could not decipher them from any test. Perhaps I'm not looking in the right place?
    I did a HV Battery test and all 19 pairs read 14.39-14.41v. Resistance was all .0019-.0020. Battery is good.
    I have an inverter ordered that should be here by today. I can only hope that is the issue. If not, I will start looking for shorts or issues with wiring.

    My thought on a bad Stator is that I believe there would have been some signs prior to it burning out such as shuttering or shaking on takeoff, vibration when driving. My car had none of those signs. It just died suddenly one day with no warning. My experience with electronics is that either they work or they don't. Rarely are electronic problems intermittent.

    Roy, thank you very much for your offer. I will keep your email handy. In any case, More input would be much appreciated.

    Many Thanks,
    Jerry
     
  14. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Further research allowed me to look up the c1259 and B1100 codes. C1259 says "Malfunction in Regenerative of HV ECU". B1100 is "Airbag Sensor Malfunction"
    I went back and reviewed the saved data from the test and I did also get a Freeze Frame Information Code 1, which was 345. I looked this up and it says "Abnormal Current Value of Generator".
    Anybody know what these mean ?? Am I totally screwed??

    Thanks Again,
    Jerry
     
  15. slimfrancis

    slimfrancis Member

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    When you were driving the car did you notice a very slight higher pitched winding sound when the car is decelerating? Like this example:



    Is your inverter coolant pump working? thats a very common gen 1 Prius problem. Inverter coolant Pumps are known failures. if it's not working you can fry the inverter causing p3125. If pumps good then your inverter is probably good and problems in the transaxle. Another known gen 1 Prius problem is an o ring that wasn't set correctly at the factory causing the transaxle to not be adequately lubricated. Frying transaxle and burning out stator etc. causing p3125. you should drain transmission fluid and look at it closely for metal particles. Let us know how you make out?

    Ps.No worries because you can buy a salvage transmission for $250 or so and can be put in for 400-500. Good luck!
     
  16. royfrontenac

    royfrontenac Member

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    problem started with the gasoline engine quitting on you so you should look towards that as your primary problem. When you drove on battery (after the gas engine stopped) you took the battery to a very low voltage so it would not turn over the gasoline engine to restart it. To help I need to know the following:

    Does the gasoline engine start - you may think it does but the sound the car makes when starting sounds as if it is running - all you are really doing is running down the battery. Use the mini vic to see the percent charge on the battery. You must get back to us with the condition the car is in right now - is it running or not?
     
  17. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Yes, C1259 is sort of a distraction code most of the time. It's a code from the ABS computer, and it gets stored any time the ABS computer got a message from the HV computer saying anything at all was wrong on the HV side. So you end up fixing whatever the HV ECU was griping about in the first place, and then the C1259 can be cleared in the brake ECU and won't come back.

    -Chap
     
  18. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Junior Member

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    Thanks guys,

    Car is not running.

    There was no wining sound before the engine stopped during acceleration or deceleration for that matter. It just stopped and threw the error code. Again, when I attempt to start the gasoline engine, a very slight lurch forward and nothing. No turning of the starter motor (M1). Right now, the tests showed basically 14.4v across the board on all 19 pairs in the traction battery. I am assuming that the DC-DC inverter/converter steps down the output voltage of the battery so that it can run the M1 and M2 motors. Logic to me says that if the traction battery is low, it cannot produce enough power to turn the M1 to start the gasoline engine. Thus no re-generation of power? So, if the inverter/converter is not working, it cannot regenerate the traction battery to an operating level. Also, it cannot charge the 12vdc battery as well.

    Question is, if the traction battery is low, the 12vdc battery is low and the engine cannot be started, how does the batteries get recharged?? I do understand that you can put a standard battery charger on the 12vdc battery to bring it up to full level. Current 12v battery is at 12.4vdc and was tested at 390CCA

    The inverter pump is circulating fluid as I look into the reservoir and see fluid movement. It was replaced recently as i can see scratches on the mounting bolts. The pump is good.

    I will stop by Toyota and pick up 5 quarts of CVT fluid to do a change. Not sure what condition the fluid is in, but will change it for GP.

    The new/used inverter was delivered today. I'll start with that. If that doesn't fix it, I'll go to plan B and make it up as I go. Good thing I have another vehicle that I drive regularly to work : )

    Any Thoughts???
     
  19. royfrontenac

    royfrontenac Member

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    I am going to assume the car is in the same condition you stated in your first post in that you cannot get the gasoline engine to run continuously.

    If your inverter was gone you would not have been able to drive 2 miles on battery as it is the device that converts the hv battery voltage to a 3 phase AC voltage which was used to drive you 2 miles. You are an electronic person look up inverter - all it does is takes DC and inverts it to AC. MG1 and MG2 are motor generators. In the motor mode they drive the front wheels in the generator mode they generate ac voltage to the converter/inverter electronics box to charge the hv battery. I am trying to explain in simple terms (it is more complex then that in reality) . Car mechanics have a hard time troubleshooting the gasoline engine because they usually kill the HV battery by multiple starts. You know how the gasoline engine works- either fuel or spark is usually the problem to cause the car to stop - when that occurs on the prius you can still drive it a short way electrically (as you did) indicating to me that the inverter and MG system may be OK. Get the gasoline engine going by checking fuel and spark, when that runs then consider problems with the inverter. Hope this helps.


    You may want to consider getting a high voltage charger that will allow you to charge the hv battery if you run it completely down, check other posts on this site on where to buy. The dealers do not usually have a charger in the shop to do this
     
  20. royfrontenac

    royfrontenac Member

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    You are not thinking about this properly. When your gas engine is running it will generate 550v 3 phase AC (through one of the motor generators) that is then fed to the converter(located in the inverter casing) that converts it to DC voltage that then charges the high voltage battery. If you can not get the gas engine running you can not generate a voltage to charge the battery. The inverter is not stopping the gasoline engine from starting up and running. You must get the problem with the gas engine solved so it will charge the hv battery and provide power to drive your vechicle. The gas engine does not directly drive the wheels as in normal cars, it drives a generator that creates a 3 phase 550 v AC voltage that in turn drives a 3 phase AC motor (MG)that drives the wheels. The hv battery provides power to the inverter that inverts it to 550v ac that drives the wheels as well. Regenerative braking is created by braking or the inertia of the vechicle while slowing down that creates a voltage in the generators (MG1 and 2) that in turn create a voltage to the inverter /converter that charges the battery. I repeat get the gas engine running.
    Towing the car with the front wheels down will create a voltage that could harm your electrical system, should tow with front wheels off ground do not try to get it running by towing.