2001 Catalytic questions

Seems my 01 w/ 140K is throwing the cat code and the dealer wants just over 2K to replace here in CA. The question I'm hoping this forum can help me answer is...
1. Based on other posts there seems to be a gate valve of some sort that sticks.. Is this easy to get to and lube just to see if it gets the light to go off?
2. Is the Eastern Cat different from the CA version or will it work? I found a replacement cat on-line for less than 200 but it sounds as if the internals are different but I want to make sure it will work both as a bolt-in replacement and be ok with the special blend of fuel in CA.

Thanks in advance for your help

1. This is easy to get to; just raise up the car and then you can find the HCAC valve attached to the front side of the catalytic converter. You will need to use a high temp lube or else you will find the lube burns off quickly since the HCAC valve gets quite hot, being part of the exhaust system.

2. All NA Classic Prius should have the same catalytic converter. A replacement sold for $200 will likely lack the HCAC chamber and valve, thus it would not work.

Please raise the car *safely* as many of your important internal organs are going to be under it.

Even if an aftermarket exhaust system has all the correct components, they cannot be legally installed according to strict interpretation of EPA law. The same seems to apply to salvage vehicle takeouts. So if we are going to walk the straight and narrow, exhaust system work upstream of the muffler will require the premium-priced original new components.

(overall, a typically nanny post sorry folks)

Thank you for the posts and I will take you advice and lube the HCAC valve w/ some high temp grease.. Still curious about replacement w/ a non CA emission part(s) as I really can't see spending another 2K after I already replaced the traction battery... Heck a straight pipe with the proper sensors would be acceptable in my book if the car would operate... Sorry I know that is not very green of me but I'm simply looking at options... Good news is the light went off so I'm hoping the greese will help.

With a salvage system at least you are complying with the spirit of the law if not the letter of it. As long as it's stock and in working order, I can't see anything wrong with it.

Hope the grease works though!

i'm looking for a cat, too!

I'd be curious how an exhaust shop would respond to a request to install and salvage recycled unit. The law is quite explicit and a large fine could be levied. Though, like orange4boy, I'd readily assume that a used one would probably do the job just fine.

anyone know where i can find a used system?

Try: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

I found my transaxle through them.

Just took a look and they don't list any exhaust components other than manifolds so you might have to send a request form. Two possibilities: 1) May be illegal to sell used cats. 2) Most cars used cats don't have much resale value.

Gents,

I had the exact same problem 8 months back. I ordered a replacement cat converter from an online company. I cannot remember the name but it was around 150 bucks. Now keep in mind, this is only the FRONT cat converter, the one before the HCAC with valve assembly. To be brutally honest, once the old cat was removed, i really dont think there was anything wrong with the original cat. THe replacelent was very close in size and construction, and was very nice quality. Muffler shop welded it in, and voila! Problem fixed.
Let me say, the Prius runs very very clean. My car had 220,000 miles at the time of the replacement, and the cat was not even dirty on the inside. We looked the old one over with a snap on boroscope and the inside of it was unharmed and not plugged in any way. The pipe from the engine was clean, no soot, no carbon, i mean unbelievably clean for 200k+ miles.
IMHO, i believe a lot of dealers mistake the cat code for the HCAC valve sticking or code is being thrown for other reasons such as old Pre- and Post O2 sensors that are becoming weaker with age. I replaced my O2 sensors the following week and picked up about 4 mpg. Car is currently pushing 229k miles and no problems what so ever with cat codes.
In my honest opinion, lube the valve first. If it goes away, good. If it comes back order a cat online. Throw it in and problem solved. It isn't rocket science with a cat. Its a simple change and as long as you order a FINE mesh replacement cat that is same as stock, you are good to go.

Justin

I just wanted to add, this was the FRONT cat only. I did not replace the HCAC chambered cat. That is still a 229k mile part and it looks absolutely fine with a boroscope. No plugged areas on the mesh and clean as a whistle on the inside.

I believe i ordered from a company called catconverter warehouse online. Its been 8 months...I forget things easilly!

Honest everyone, I have had no problems with the Non toyota replacement. It fit same as original and weighed about the same.

Relative costs of O{2} sensors vs cat?

Thanks,
Bob Wilson

[well bob, best i can remember, the CAT cost me about $150 or so online.

The O2 sensors were ordered online and if i remember correctly they were around $150 or little more for both.

With Toyota attempting to swindle everyone for $1000 to $1600+ for a cat setup, i figured what the hell.

Im sorry, but even $400 bucks for that entire assembly is hiway robbery. A cat converter is simply a platinum imbedded device constructed for emissions. Wont get into the theory but paying a thousand dollars is insane. Its simply the dealer and parts department raping owners that dont understand what it is comprised of.

took my car to 5 shops here in so cal. Recieved the same answer from them all. "Sorry we can't touch the emissions device on a hybrid". Called the dealer, the best deal i could work out was $1,800 installed. Lubed the valve, nothing.... Thank god my registration expires in December, so i am paid till 2011.

anyone here have pics on how to lube?

I can't help but to respond to your suggestion that all Catalytic Converters are pretty-much the same. I do agree OE parts are expensive, but sometimes there is a reason behind the madness.
I used to design aftermarket cats, so I know a thing or two about them.

Simply put, the precious metal loading (amounts of platinum, rhodium, and palladium) on a OE cat compared to an aftermarket cat usually is about 10 times more (lots of EPA and CARB loopholes for aftermarket manufacturers). That means it will clean up the exhaust better and plainly works a lot better. Sometimes an aftermarket cat is not sufficient enough to keep the dreaded P0420 catalyst efficiency code from appearing on many cars.

Based on my experience, I would never use an aftermarket cat. Instead, I would by a low mileage unit from a wrecked, similar engine-size, high quality car (preferably the same type of car - but not needed) at an auto wrecker. Have it cut out and welded in at a muffler shop. Toyotas, Hondas, & German cars have some of the best ones.

Just one last thing. The Prius has two, big, very highly loaded cats and excellent stainless steel exhaust tubing. Perhaps worth about 50% of what the dealers charge. That said; I would instead buy a used one off any year model, low mileage Prius instead of a trip to the dealer and would be grinning from ear to ear about the deal I got.

Speedy, I understand your thinking on this. But what you are missing is the fact that OE or not, I refuse to spend $1600 or even $1000 on a converter. And I am not spending $600 bucks on a used one! Once again HIGHWAY ROBBERY of unknowing owners. even if the precious metal content is 50% higher, its just not worth the expense. I got my converter from Catalytic converter warehouse. 18K miles later not a problem. I found the receipt, it was $99 dollars. Oh and a 25 dollar installation at the local muffler shop.
With that said, I could replace the aftermarket converter 10 times and still be cheaper than an oem item. Even if it lasted only 40K miles, that would be a 400k mile investement on 10 aftermarket converters. And buying a used converter is like buying used underwear! We can sit and debate this for months. To each his own, but spending that on a 10 year old car is like buying $6000 rims and tires for a 87 cutlass....Pointless and kinda funny!

Which model?

Inlet and exhaust diameter?

Length?

Bob Wilson

Ahh bob, hello my friend!
Here is exactly what i ordered:

Catalytic Converter - Direct Fit - OEM Quality at Discount Price

Eastern Model 40544

Seems they are a bit higher than they were a while back. THis is the exact one i ordered. It was very well built and just about as heavy as the OEM unit that was removed. Inner matrix was a very very fine mesh and same as OEM. Until installed with no problems and muffler shop welded it up less than 10 minutes i was out the door. I haven't had a lick of trouble with it for almost 10k miles.

Just FYI, the converter, OEM or this model is very rugged construction. And quite heavy for its size.

Ahh bob, hello my friend!
Here is exactly what i ordered:

Catalytic Converter - Direct Fit - OEM Quality at Discount Price

Eastern Model 40544

Seems they are a bit higher than they were a while back. THis is the exact one i ordered. It was very well built and just about as heavy as the OEM unit that was removed. Inner matrix was a very very fine mesh and same as OEM. Until installed with no problems and muffler shop welded it up less than 10 minutes i was out the door. I haven't had a lick of trouble with it for almost 10k miles.

Just FYI, the converter, OEM or this model is very rugged construction. And quite heavy for its size.