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2007 Low MPG -- Can't figure out why

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Fuel Economy' started by scramjett, Jan 23, 2012.

  1. scramjett

    scramjett New Member

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    Hi all,

    I have been following the posts for the last few days, I just haven't had time to respond. Ok, so now I know that Techstream Lite and PriiDash are software and not hardware, that should help with the cost. It's too bad there are no iPad apps, it'd be nice to be able to plug my iPad into the data port and mount my iPad on the dash to monitor all of that information. I really was hoping to avoid reinstalling Windows on my MacBook Pro but from the sounds of things, that's what I'm going to have to do.

    Do you think it would be worth it to give the dealership another shot? Is there any one in the Sac area who can recommend a different Toyota dealership that might be more helpful and can do something more than just a "health check?" What about the Bay Area? I'd hate to have to make the 2ish hour drive, but I will do it if there is a good dealership there.

    If not, then I will pick up the software (I'm leaning towards PriiDash because Techstream Lite seems a bit overkill) and run some tests and report back here with my findings.
     
  2. NortTexSalv04Prius

    NortTexSalv04Prius Active Member

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    I agree with all of this plus a trip from Sacremento aka North Cali traveled to Southern Cali has lots and lots of hills
     
  3. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    I don't think there's any point going to the dealer, if you're not seeing codes or any clearly abnormal behavior they're not going to have anything to add to the conversation. If it gives you peace of mind, then go for it.
    Do you have any friends in the area with a Prius that you could swap cars with for a day or two? I certainly want to give you all the benefit of the doubt, but I just haven't read anything here that really screams at me that something is wrong.
     
  4. scramjett

    scramjett New Member

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    There are a couple people I know with a Gen II Prius. I think that, in order to get more meaningful results, we would have to basically drive the same route at the same speed at the same time with roughly the same load to get a better comparison. That way we can control for things like wind speed, temperature, speed, weight, etc. I realize that the issue is somewhat subjective (other than my photographic evidence of the behavior which is also somewhat subjective since you're taking my word for the conditions at which the pic was taken), but as sure as I am sitting here at my desk at work typing this out, I know that something is not right and that I am suffering a not insignificant mileage drop.

    I think I might install Ubuntuu on my MacBook Pro and start with installing PriiDash (I read that there is an Ubuntuu version, unless folks think the Windows version is better). I'll take it on a trip where I can reproduce the issue and see what the gauges are showing (I'll try and do a screen capture also). If nothing shows up there, I'll give Techstream Lite a shot since that seems to go deeper.
     
  5. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Techstream Lite requires a compliant interface cable: Mongoose MFC, "Mangoose", or Tactrix.
     
  6. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    ScramJett...I shot some video tonight of the exact same energy screen display in your pictures while I was climbing some pretty impressive local ozark hills--with green arrows to the battery pack while climbing. I'll try to get them uploaded to YouTube and will link them to you. It also shows my CANView display so you can see how it does this even at high RPM (over 4000).
     
  7. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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  8. scramjett

    scramjett New Member

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    I'll have to watch those videos another time, YouTube is blocked at work and I usually don't have time at home to do much of anything during the week. I'm off Friday so I might be able to watch it then. Incidentally, I'm not arguing that the screen doesn't come up at all. As I said, it's only the grapevine that I follow that screen. It's possible that in the past, it did that and I just didn't notice it.

    I guess what I've been trying to say all along is that my Prius has been treating 7 bars as the new 6 bars. I'm not saying the problem is only on hills or the grapevine since, as I mentioned previously, I am having to refuel the Prius after 200 miles where as, driving the same speeds, I could refuel after about 380 miles, I'm just saying that is where it is the most pronounced. But if everyone is telling me that this is normal behavior, then I need to approach this from another angle and figure out what else could be hampering my mileage. Someone previously suggested putting the car on blocks and seeing if the tires freely spin. Maybe that is the next step.
     
  9. scramjett

    scramjett New Member

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    You know, I was just looking at the preview pic to your first video where it shows the charging arrow and I couldn't help but notice that it was green. It's not green when mine does it. I don't think its part of the problem or anything, just an odd quirk I noticed. I don't think any of the charging arrows in my Prius are green. Maybe a difference between the 2004 and 2007?
     
  10. scramjett

    scramjett New Member

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    Thanks for the heads up. If I do go that route, I'll be sure to buy or borrow the appropriate cable.
     
  11. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    Yea, don't sweat the arrow color, they changed the MFD display in the '06 I think.
     
  12. Rxmxsh

    Rxmxsh Member

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    Wow. Great thread. My 2007 is giving me poor mileage as well. Sub 40, high 30s. I tested my battery after an overnight sit and found my SOC to be at 11.6, 11.1 with load (lights on, no air).

    As a side note, I found the Optima battery at AutoZone for $170.

    Thanks for all the tips, gentlemen.
     
  13. cwerdna

    cwerdna Senior Member

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    Yep, on the higher res MFD available on 06-09 models, the arrow colors are different, besides the graphics looking better...
     
  14. snowhound2

    snowhound2 New Member

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    I wanted to update on the results of what I have found with my car. Went through - battery was fine, cleaned the MAF, pulled power from the battery for 30 minutes to get a reset, checked cooling fan for battery, switched to 0-30 synthetic oil, and inflated tires to 40/38. Minimal impact.

    Took car into service department to have them check if brake was hanging because it sounded like there was a rub but they didn't find one. What they found was a bad fuel injector. Replaced and almost back to mileage that I was previous.

    I will know the impact better after several tanks of fuel are run through - by then the randomness of the fuel bladder volume should average itself out and the actual mileage can be calculated vs my historical tracking. I know - warm up times, # of starts, etc will affect the MPG calculated that way but that is how I have measured all along as it is directly related to the only measure I care about $/mile.

    Thanks for the insight everyone has lent on this thread.
     
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  15. scramjett

    scramjett New Member

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    Interesting. A couple of questions, who did you take your car to? Was it a Toyota service department? Was your car behaving in a similar way to the way I had described in my previous posts (ie running at freeway speed with battery level in the green zone)? I'm assuming that you didn't have a "check engine light" (ie the computer wasn't throwing codes). Is that the case? Did they show you what the injector looked like? Too bad you didn't get a pic, I might be able to check my injectors and see if I have a bad or clogged injector.

    It's possible this could be the source of my problems also, but I'm being cautious since I thought a new 12 V battery would fix it and it has not. I still will have the tires and brakes checked. I did confirm on my own that the tires are the right size and not too big. I thought that might be it when I noticed my speedometer is off by about 3 mph at freeway speeds (ie 75 is really 72, etc). The last time I had a car do that was because my Dad and I replaced the tires with bigger off-road tires (it was a truck).

    Thanks for reporting back your problem. Hopefully I can report back my problem being solved soon.
     
  16. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    I started having the same issue a while back. I ended up replacing the inverter coolant and it restored my mileage. This was at 40K miles on my 07 owned since new. If the Inverter coolant reservior cap has pink residue/dust on it then the coolant needs to be replaced. Remove the cap and look at it. The coolant is circulated through pure aluminum and gets contaminated quickly. I noticed my Inverter ran 10 degree's hotter then usual as evidenced by a hand held IR thermometer testing the Inverter body itself. New coolant made th Inverter run very cool again and restored my mileage.
    Its really easy to replace the coolant yourself. There's a good thread on how to do it here. And there's a few You Tube's about it too. Very simple.

    Also your way due for a good throttle body cleaning. Take the air cleaner body assy out and open the butterfly and look down there with a flashlight. You will not like what you see. Never mind the little puddle of oil thats another conversation.
    If interested search through my old posts and there's a very complete instructional on how to clean the TB properly and how to remove the air cleaner body properly and what tools you will need.
    Prius TB's get very sooty quick. Your car will run great with a clean TB. I have also bypassed the coolant loop on my TB as down here in Florida its completely unneccesary. All its doing is baking the throttle body motor which is very expensive. Car runs great.

    And ditch the K & N and use a factory air cleaner.

    BTW, I run a K & N on my other car and have never oiled it. I have run many K & N's through the years and never oiled them. But I live in an urban area and don't see very dusty conditions.

    Btw, I am on the original battery too and averaging around 49 mpg's mixed around town & light highway. Its getting close to replace time though as my under load is hitting 12.2.
     
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  17. scramjett

    scramjett New Member

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    Hi Ed,

    Thanks for all of the useful bits of information. I'll definitely check out the coolant (since it is the easiest thing I can do at the moment). Given the way my car has been behaving, I can definitely see how the inverter running hotter than normal would cause problems. Don't know about cleaning the throttle body, that may be a bit outside my maintenance comfort zone. If it takes awhile, I also don't have a lot of time to spare. I have replaced the K&N with the factory air filter and like you, I never oiled the K&N on my previous cars .

    As for the battery, you probably still have some time. My loaded voltage was at 11.6. I don't know how many miles you have now but at 12.2 V loaded, you can probably get away with another few months before you need to replace it.

    Thanks again! :)
     
  18. Rxmxsh

    Rxmxsh Member

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    My loaded voltage gets down to 11.1/11.2 - Do you think that's low enough to replace the battery?
     
  19. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Yes that battery is toast and impairing mileage.
     
  20. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    The TB cleaning is easy. Just rip some old t shirts in some long strips about 3 inches wide. While holding the butterfly open shove a strip down in the throat and then soak the strip with Carb/Choke cleaner. Then use the wet strip to scrub the throat and butterfly. Pull the strip out when it gets real dirty and it will leave the throat pretty dry and clean. Repeat till very clean. With the strip down there all that cleaner never gets in the intake. Wear surgical gloves.

    The only tricky part to removing the air cleaner body is there's a throat clamp underneath the body that clamps around the TB throat. You can't see it really but its under there. Make sure thats tight when your done or you will have an air leak post cleaner.
     
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