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$38.99 Craftsman Floor Jack and Stands at Sears

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by macmaster05, Oct 15, 2011.

  1. macmaster05

    macmaster05 Senor Member

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    Just wanted to let my automative friends at PriusChat know that there is a Craftsman floor jack and jack stand (2 1/4 ton) combo pack available at Sears for only $38.99. Purchased a la carte or at regular price would cost ~$75. I just picked one up. Deal ends Thursday 10/20/11.

    Now I know this is a pretty cheap jack (I saw a demo at the store), but it should be more than sufficient for lifting the Prius.

    2-1/4 ton Floor Jack Set with 2-1/4 ton Jack Stands
     
  2. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    I find that a 2 ton floor jack is marginal for lifting the front at the jack point. I hope that yours is "sufficient". Next time I would opt for a three ton jack.

    JeffD
     
  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    An excellent price point.

    Personally, I would look for a jack that has a larger-diameter lifting saddle, to spread the load over a larger area. Since the OP already made his purchase, I suggest he use a block of wood between the jack saddle and the car to achieve a similar result.

    Further, a jack with a longer handle will allow you to place the jack further under the car and the longer handle results in greater leverage, hence it is easier to lift a given weight.
     
  4. macmaster05

    macmaster05 Senor Member

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    I'll try this, however it may not be possible for me with the front end. My ride is lowered and front clearance is somewhere less than 6". This lift is about 5.x" tall so it's going to be a close one!

    I may work around this by using a pipe for extended leverage.
     
  5. 2009Prius

    2009Prius A Wimpy DIYer

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    I bought the combo at regular price and it works well for my Prius:
    [​IMG]
     
  6. macmaster05

    macmaster05 Senor Member

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    So I tried out this floor jack but I'm having a lot of trouble lifting the front;

    First, my car is WAY to low to roll the floor jack under the front-center. I fibbed with it for at least 30 minutes, even trying to go in from the sides, and eventually gave up.

    Next, I decided to try to use the car's manual jack stand (the included one) to start off the lifting for some extra space. After doing this I was able to roll the jack stand under the front of the car/front lifting point with plenty of space. However, the handle/pump on the floor jack had WAY too much play, so it was contacting the underbody panels before I could actually get a pumping action. Therefore, still no lift from the front center with my floor jack...ARGH!!

    My alternative method is one I am not too sure of. What I am doing now is using the side of the car as a lifting point for my floor jack, rather than the front center. It's the same place you would lift w/ the included jack stand when you have a flat. Except now, I'm lifting it with a hydraulic jack and replacing it with a jack stand. Then I roll around to the other side of the car and do the same thing. In other words, I am not lifting from the center and placing the jack stand on each side simultaneously. I am lifting from the sides and doing it one at a time. Is this safe for the car/me??

    2009Prius, how the heck did you get this to work, nonetheless have enough room for a block of wood and 2 pieces of rubber?????? Even when the car was high enough for me to slide the floor jack under, I still didn't have enough space to pump the handle.

    Everyone else, is my "alternative method" safe? Thank you all!
     
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Get a few 2x8's and make one or two step ramps, really minor/easy amount of raise. Drive your front wheels onto those and then you should be ok. With that amount of lift you should have a little leeway: and if so, I'd recommend to slip a hockey puck into the jack cradle, to avoid chewing up the front jacking point metal.

    Maybe goes without saying, but anyways: when lowering the car don't neglect to lower them back onto those ramps. ;)

    I used that sort of lightweight jack for years, but with a previous vehicle we had I needed more lift, so ended up getting a 3 ton jack with unloaded max height of around 21". It's also more solid feeling. OTOH, it's also more of a handful, and lightweight jacks can get the job done.

    Also, sooner or later you'll likely want to put the whole car up on (4) jackstands, just for something like snow tire swap, for instance.

    And: I'm finding the underbody rails much more stable than the rocker panel jack points. I put my safety stands just at their front ends. They're about a 10~12" inboard of the rocker panel edge.
     
  8. macmaster05

    macmaster05 Senor Member

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    I'm not sure how I feel about making/using a wooden ramp. That was one of the things I was hoping to avoid when I got the floor jack.

    The hockey puck is a good idea, but only would work if I have enough clearance. When I go from the front-center I still have the handle problem. If I go from the side, there's no clearance UNLESS I use the minijack to get started again.

    I'd still like to know if lifting from the side of the car is an acceptable method. It seems the reasons against it would be because I'm applying all the pressure to one corner (before running around the car to raise the other side), rather than spreading it in the front-center. However, that's also the way you would jack the car with your mini-jack, right? So what would the problem be?
     
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I see no problem. In fact I will lift the entire side of the car using one hydraulic floor jack with a length of 2x4 to spread the load across the body. This makes it easy to rotate tires front to back and vice-versa.
     
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  10. macmaster05

    macmaster05 Senor Member

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    Hey Patrick, thanks. Since I've ruled out lifting from the center, I was wondering where exactly do you lift (on the side) and then where exactly do you place the jack stands? I am looking at the picture below and don't know if I can deviate from these jack points. For example, if I lift where the rectangles are shown I don't have room to set up my jack stands. However, if I choose to put my jack stands where the rectangles are, then where do I lift from? I also noticed that there is the reinforced jack point just inside the rocker panel, and another one a few more inches inwards, towards the center of the car (behind the flap that hangs). Which is the correct area to place either the jack stands or floor jack (depending on your answer above), as I can't tell from this schematic. And finally, do I need to put anything on the jack stands so it's not "metal on metal?" I'm afraid it'll be unstable if I put an object in between the car and the stand. Thanks for answering my 1000 questions. :)

    [​IMG]
     
  11. 2009Prius

    2009Prius A Wimpy DIYer

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    First of all I learned all this from PriusChat members, especially Patrick. If you look at the picture I posted earlier closely you can see I positioned the jack under the "welded cross" of a rectangular beam that runs down the length of the car at each side of the car. It is more toward the center of the car from the Toyota official jack points (the rectangular shaded area in the picture you posted above). I raise one side at a time and put jack stands under the official jack points (pictures below). If you are just rotating tires then there is no need to raise both sides up and this way (raising one side at a time) is more convenient than raising from the official front and back center jack points.

    I think having some rubber between the metals should help stability (so the car won't slide off). Hope this helps. Good luck and be safe!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. macmaster05

    macmaster05 Senor Member

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    Ohhhh thank you thank you. 2 more questions:

    1) On the Craftsman jack stand instructions it says to push in the metal clip to prevent the teeth from lifting up. How is this possible? It's made of metal, virtually unbendable, and even if I could push it in, how do I pull it back out?

    2) Now I know I can lift from the center-side, but I'm not trying to lift the whole car (using 4 jack stands), or just one side to rotate the tires --- I am trying to lift the front only. So is lifting from the side-center and placing a jack stand in one corner enough to hold the car's weight before I move to the other side, and when I bring it off the stands? Have you ever done it this way too?
     
  13. 2009Prius

    2009Prius A Wimpy DIYer

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    Push it real hard! :D

    No I think we need to use a hammer and something to knock and bend it and it is supposed to be one time deal, not reversible, so make sure the parts are assembled correctly before starting to bend it. I was too lazy to do mine and have learned to carry the stands carefully so the two pieces don't separate (if they do then one of them may drop on my toes :eek:).

    I haven't done this but I think it should be fine. I would also stick something sturdy and thicker than me under the car if I crawl under there. Here I use my homemade wood ramps:

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. macmaster05

    macmaster05 Senor Member

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    Ok. I think I'm still confused on what this metal clip does though. Does it prevent the saw/teeth/jack/bar from disconnecting from the 'A' stand? What do you mean assembled correctly? As far as I can tell, the only mistake you could make is putting the teeth on backwards...

    It does seem unnecessary... What is the chance that the bar will lift out when its under the car's pressure? I'd be more worried about the bar being driven down, straight through the 'A' stand - not up! LOL!
     
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1) This relates to the insertion of the top portion of the jackstand into the base. The idea of depressing the metal tab is to prevent the top portion from sliding out of the base, should you hold the jackstand upside down. All you need to do is to use a hammer and large screwdriver or chisel to depress the metal tab so that the top won't fall out of the base. Once the tab is depressed, you are not supposed to try to reverse that.

    I would recommend that you bend that tab as this is a safety issue. Someone else may use your jackstands and may be careless, holding them upside down. Then their feet will be nailed by the jackstand top.

    2) It is fine to lift one corner at a time when placing the jackstands.
     
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  16. wick1ert

    wick1ert Senior Member

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    What are you trying to get to that you just want the front of the car raised? I found the best jacks for the Prius are the low profile floor jacks - sometimes called racing jacks. I picked one up from Harbor Freight for around $85, and have an old set of stands that my brother decided he didn't want anymore that I use. The only reason I jack the car up is to do the winter tire swap, though. Oil changes I drive up the Rhino Ramps, with a piece of 2x6 in front of each tire.
     
  17. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    I lift mine one wheel at a time like that. Unfortunately my carport has enough slope (right to left) that it's not safe to try and lift the whole front end on jack/stands (because of the sideways forces due to the slope).

    I will lift an entire side (either left or right) as the two tires on the other side are firmly grounded and can take any lateral forces. I still do it one wheel at a time though. I jack the rear wheel and place a stand, then move the jack to the front wheel and repeat.

    Does anyone have any idea of what the maximum left-right slope for which it's safe to jack/stand the entire front end? I'd guess you'd want something that's pretty close to dead flat.
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Is that Pic a Prius? Doesn't look right: front central jacking point is not that far back. The Prius front jacking point is just a little over a foot back, 18" at the most: a raised black metal zone, protrudes through the engine undercover.

    OTOH, if you're having trouble with the jack handle tapping the front bumper, you'll find it impossible for sure with the rear central jacking point: it's way under. Even with my 3 ton the whole jack more-or-less disappears under the vehicle, and the handle travel is very limitted.

    I think that Pic is a RAV or something, it's saying rear differential.
     
  19. 2009Prius

    2009Prius A Wimpy DIYer

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    Looks exactly the same as my gen 2 Prius. Your gen 3 may be different?
     
  20. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    You are correct. The diagram of the vehicle in the Prius repair manual is slightly different and the rear jacking point is not identified as the rear differential.

    With 2G Prius, the center rear jacking point is the bottom of the inverted tower that points downwards from the body; while the center front jacking point is the X-shaped subframe.