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$5000 Transaxle assembly

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by MelS, Feb 27, 2012.

  1. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Mel, take the offer for $2000. I would suggest towing the car to AutoBeYours in Scottsburg, IN for a high quality salvage replacement, but the cost would be about the same.

    RE: Warranty. The transaxle is NOT a hybrid component outside of CARB states. Here, for example, is the warranty statement from a TSB for P0AA6.

    APPLICABLE WARRANTY
    • This repair is covered under the Toyota Powertrain Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 60
    months or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date.
    • For California specification vehicles sold, registered, and operated in California, Connecticut
    (starting with ’05 MY), Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire (starting with ’05 MY), New
    Jersey (starting with ’05 MY), New York, Oregon (starting with ’08 MY), Pennsylvania* (starting
    with ’08 MY), Rhode Island (starting with ’05 MY), and Vermont, this repair is covered under
    the California Emission Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 180 months or 150,000 miles,
    whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date.
     
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  2. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Exactly. This is not caused by any fluid/winding interaction. If it was that means the winding conformal coating (very very tough) has failed and are exposed to the fluid. At that point it doesn't matter what kind of fluid is in there because at 200 to 500 AC volts its sure to flash over.

    WS Fluid with heavy metal wear in solution does not cause any windings shorts. If it did Toyota would have a real business changing nightmare on there hands and you would be forced to keep ultra fresh cvt fluid in the car at all times which is simply not the case.
    Most people who own this car never change the fluid and drive well into 150K plus miles with no issues. Most dealers scratch there head if you ask them about a trans fluid change. I can tell you the fluid has substantial wear on it at even 30,000 miles. Wear meaning its pretty diluted with metal. My point is very dirty fluid has no impact on the windings.

    Whats happening is a winding overheats and gets very hot at its weakest point and the surrounding conformal coating fails and exposes the winding thats laying on top of it and the windings basicly melt and fuse together. The Inverter senses that out of phase and hi current draw and throws a CEL.
    This winding overheat condition would happen by a heavy duty use of the MG either by continuous hills with low battery or a lifetime of abuse or poor maintenance and or Inverter coolant failure. It happens by the electric motor drawing more current at a duration it was not designed for. The weakest link for failure on hi current draw is somewhere in the windings. Nothing to do with the fluid.
    I notice the majority of cvt failures we see here are on used cars
    with the present owner not knowing about its history.

    It does help to keep fresh trans fluid in the cvt to eliminate any mechanical stress on the internal drivetrain.
     
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  3. MelS

    MelS New Member

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    Just drove my car home from the dealer. I had a good talk with the mechanic who diagnosed and did the repair. He's been working on Prii :cool: since they came out and only seen one other transaxle fail. There was only one part available locally and the next one was out in California (I'm in Chicago) which is another indicator to them of how uncommon this is. He explained that part of the diagnosis was to push the car without it being on because the wheels in motion set the electric stuff in motion and the car shuddered which indicated an electrical short. I asked about the fluid and metal and he said that my fluid wasn't all that dirty by the eyeball and that even dirty fluid would not cause an electric short like this, just as edthefox5 said.

    As to the possible causes mentioned:
    I'm at a loss. Of course if there is something in my driving behavior that caused this I would like to know. I am the original owner. I drive the car to and from work (highway) and for local errands in the Chicago area, all flat. I make a couple of longer trips a year on midwest flat highways and only occasionally have been in hilly areas. I've kept the service schedule meticulously. If the winding can become overheated, shouldn't there be a sensor to tell you that the engine is too hot?
    Since some of you felt that the metal bits could still have been a factor in an electrical problem, I'm going to spring for the lab test out of curiosity. I'll post when I get the results.
    Thanks to everyone that helped!!
     
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  4. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Disturbing. Somewhere in its life it became very unhappy. Here's some questions as I am curious:

    Are you the only driver in the house?
    Did you have the Inverter coolant pump replaced under service bulletin warranty?
    On the occasional hills mentioned did it ever struggle getting over a hill requiring you to floor it to make it?
    And what have been any issues with the car requiring dealer service?

    And if you have "metal bits" in the fluid thats a whole other story.
    You wouln't have bits in the fluid without a mechanical failure of gear or chain or bearing and you would know that so forget that.
    You would know that as the trans would make a loud noise.

    But analysis of the fluid would be very interesting and we would all appreciate that.
    I used wearcheck.com and they were good.
     
  5. MelS

    MelS New Member

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    My son drives the car - very, very rarely. He has his own car. When he's used the Prius, it's been for local errands, no highway driving.

    Two summers ago (so some 35,000 miles ago) I did have an issue with a hill because of mud. I didn't force the car but backed down in reverse and came up again out of the muddy ruts. However, a little into the road after the hill (now flat again) the check engine light came on. I drove the short distance (under a mile) to where we were staying. In the morning, the light was off. I called the dealer and explained what had happened and asked them if I was okay to drive home, some 5 hours away. They said as long as the light didn't come on again, it was okay to drive home and to bring it to them to check it if I would feel better. I drove home, the light did not come on again. I took it to the dealer and they checked it and reported a code (sorry, can't find the exact one it was right now) indicating a problem with the catalytic converter. They offered to change the catalytic converter because it was under warranty which I did.
     
  6. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    It is a problem with the Prius, if not other cars as well, that many sensors will not trigger a warning light until the damage is already been done. The oil pressure and coolant temperature warning lights come to mind.
     
  7. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    In addition, there could have been a manufacturing defect or damage in one of the MGs. It does happen, even with the best designs and manufacturers. Sometimes you just win the reverse lottery and get the one failure in a million.

    Tom
     
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  8. Skoorbmax

    Skoorbmax Senior Member

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    Of course it is. You could easily sell this car for more than $5000, so even if you hate the car and I bet you do now (I would, too), get it repaired and sell it.

    At the very least you should call Toyota warranty service and they may be kind enough to go splits (seriously).
     
  9. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    I can't offer any explanation as to why that happened but it is unfortunate. I hope this will be your last problem for many years.
     
  10. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Yes I neglected to mention what Tom posted also. That your car may have had a failure of the windings through simple years of use. There may be a spot on one of the windings that has become corroded or even a wire imperfection and the winding wire breaks. Since the ends are touching there will be sparking and to anyone who inspects it with a trans teardown that will look like a winding blowout due to a burnt spot from the wire arcing.

    Doesn't have to neccessarily have 2 windingd fuse together.

    Or it may be a bad connection on one of the 3 phase wires anywhere in the harness from Inverter to motor.
    3 phase motor control is used becausee its effient and the motor is very smooth no vibrations as the motor is very balanced compared to a single phase motor and its easy to control the voltage.
    The way they fail is usually lose a phase and then the other phases become very unbalanced and start pulling current. The phases that are unbalanced usually pull so much current they blow out a winding. This happens really fast and leads to the windings fused together scenario. So you usually have 2 events. A phase loss and a high current event on the other 2 legs.

    This unbalance causes what may posters with failed trans's call "humming".
    The inverter then starts pulling back on the current to save itself and you have a car with no power and a bad trans.
     
  11. richard schumacher

    richard schumacher shortbus driver

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    Of course you should fix it. Think calmly about what sort of replacement car you could buy for $5000 (or is it now $2000?): a 12 year old Civic? Maybe a seven year old Kia? One-quarter or less of a brand new Whatever?