Anyone have a subwoofer under the seat?

Can you think of any reason someone would need heavy guage wiring for the unit? Here is the 1500 mounted in someones car. It appears the orange cable is heavy duty audio type? yes?

 

I totally agree - this is why I connected my Bass600 to the 12 V battery instead of the HV battery. Connecting to the HV battery (a high voltage source) is probably shorting something in the Bass600. Where all that heat is going would befuddle me...

I'd stick to wiring it correctly to the existing 12V battery with a decent gauge cable. The Bass600 runs 400 watts - but only when functionally *active*. Same with the 10" - just run the wire (with fuse) - it is simple to do...

I placed my car in our wind-tunnel at JPL, and found we actually got better (???) mileage over a 10 mile stretch with the Bass600 functioning while listening to "Girl from Ipanema" in loop mode at 40MPH. I can only attribute it to a ever so slight change in 12V charging over that period...

 

I got the kit from BOSS for around $12. No headache with the installation.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000OSZA44&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0Z45NPTSFV195EYR7W31

 

I ran mine directly to the 12V battery too. It was pretty easy without having to drill a hole through firewall to reach the 12V under the hood, etc. Installing subwoofer is easier on Prius because the 12V is in the trunk. Just pointing out so others know.

12V battery is powered by (topped off by) the DC-DC converter (200V -> 12V) which is powered by the HV battery. That's how all the accessory power (including headlights) are drawn from the HV battery. The 12V is independently used only if you are in the IGN mode (Start button once without Brake).

 

I grounded it under one of the passenger seat bolt that screwed to the chassis. I scraped a little bit paint to make sure a good contact. You'll need to remove the seat to properly run the wire under the carpet. I am assuming 2010 is very similar.

 

Ah.. I get now, the 8g is for the battery power. Good grief, will this thing require that much power?!

 

You know, I am really questioning the 400 RMS, yes I read the "Manual". On stage we used real ampifiers, Crown, Phase Linear, etc, when they say those are 400 RMS per channel, that I can believe.
However as much as I love the BOSS, I think they stretched the laws of physics some in their 400 RMS claim.

To that end, I pulled out the trusty Amp Meter, and here is the Boss at ide. It daws .42 amps.



Try as I might, and I had the volume cranked up way louder than I would normally listen to, the most current draw I could get was this...



Just a hair over 1 amp. lets say you all listen at MAXIMUM volume, that would be what 2 amps..3 tops, on a good day?...

The 12 Ga they supplied is OK, I happened to have some #8 laying around, but that's approaching overkill! #10 would be pefect fo this amp.

I would really love to hook up this amp to our Power/Disortion analyser and see what this unit REALLY puts out. I would magine that would end up being a self destruct test!!

As far as ths sucking down the HV battery, it's NOTHING like havng the AC on. I can kill the battery in the "In and Out" burger stand line while I am waiting for my food! The stereo and subwoofer hardly make a dent!

 

To get an rough estimate on the maximum wattage of the amp output just look at the fuse size, take that multiply by 14 then multiply by the amplifier efficiency. If the Amp is class AB it's about 40-50% if Class D then 75-85%. I would low ball the efficiency to get a more accurate calculation because there may be other variables not accounted for. To get a more accurate estimate of undistorted output power then you would need an oscilloscope and a sine wave tone or generator and a multimeter. pop in the sinewave tone or generator source/CD preferably at 40-60hz hook up the oscilloscope parallel to the subwoofer. Crank the system up and look at the oscilloscope graph until the top and bottom of the wave line borders perfectly round and flat line. This shows that the system is playing at near 0% distortion. Then switch to the volt meter and measure the voltage output of the amplifier. Take the voltage and square it. Then divide that by the resting impedance of the subwoofer. This will give you true root means square output of the amp. If you don't have an oscilloscope then just listen to the bass until you hear distortion then back down a little bit. Once you get the wattage output you can measure the current draw from the battery to calculate the power input. Once you get the power input and output you can figure out the amp's efficiency.

 

So who's going to show the hit on mileage under normal driving conditions. At 6 - 12 watts, I do not think there is *any* chance at showing anything of significance...

 

I don't have measurement but I noticed the bars drop faster. Maybe the head unit draws more power as well.

 

Don't worry, it is just rrolff. :mod: He will also likely add that the sub decrease the coefficient drag because he tested it at the JPL labs. LOL.

 

That's a different thread entirely...

 

I did some measurements. When the car is idling with DNX6960 off, it consumes 0.9 Amp at 220 V. At normal volume (DNX6960 + BASS600), it consumes around 1.4 Amp. It depends on the beat of the song. If I turn it up above my comfort level, I saw it hovering around 1.8 Amp.

Audio Off: 200 Watts
Normal: 300 Watts
Loud: 400 Watts

 

Where are you getting these numbers from????
Audio off...200 Watts ...I don't think so... And how are you powering the BOSS off of 220v??? You did'nt really tap off the HV Battery did you????

Also we should not confuse power DC consumed with Audio power amplification RMS Watts. While there is correlation, it's not how true RMS is measured. I believe someone posted the test procedure in an earlier post.

What I am not clear on is if you are indeed using the HV battery and using 220VDC, and the BOSS takes 12 VDC, what are you doing with the other 208 VDC????
Are you running some sort of voltage converter?
In my application P=I X E .42 X 12 = 5.04 watts idle power. If you are indeed drawing 200 watts, I would consder the extra 208 VDC are being wasted in some sort of dummy load or inefficient power conversion system.

Let me know what your doing, my curousity has been piqued!!

 

I am using a custom compiled (for Netbook) Prius CAN Monitor for ELM327 chips by Timster. It was originally written by 83GTP@Tokyo and shared by Ken1784.

It reports HV battery voltage and current. I did a base test with DNX6960 off but the BASS600 was on since it is directly powered by the 12V battery but no sound signal going there. That test gave me 200 watts (220v x 0.9 Amp). I guess the car being on (Inverter, 14 ECUs, etc...) consume that much.

When I turn on my Kenwood and play a music DVD at my "normal" volume, the HV battery draw went up to around 300 watts (50% increase) probably due to the 12V bus draw from the subwoofer. This indicates the HV battery would run down 1.5x faster if I am playing music with the sub.

If I turn it up really loud, the consumption went up to 400 watts.

When I took the picture, the ICE kicked in to recharge the HV battery. As you see in the pic, the battery current remain in negative (discharging). It is puzzling because I would expect it to be positive. I have to monitor it more to see if it is accurate. The battery charge and temp are not working.