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coolant bleed help

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by MrKauzmo, May 16, 2016.

  1. MrKauzmo

    MrKauzmo New Member

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    Hello all,
    great forum thanks for all the help!

    2009 toyota prius 143k miles. Replaced coolant control valve. Replaced coolant for both systems. Did numerous bleeds on both systems to get the air out. I still have the red warning light and problem on my display. any suggestions? When I let the inverter pump run with out the gas motor on i still see the coolant circulate in the inverter reservoir. The inverter pump seems to have normal humming sound (aquarium pump) and my check code has p1126. out of ideas and think of replacing the inverter pump next. thanks in advance
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    DTC P1126 is not a valid fault code.

    The problem is not the inverter coolant pump if you can hear it running and you can see fluid turbulence in the inverter reservoir. The coolant control valve is in the engine coolant loop, not the inverter coolant loop. Leave the inverter coolant loop alone.

    Did you run the engine coolant heat recovery system pump to get air out of the CHRS system?

    1) Get the correct code reader, Mini VCI for example.
    2) Post photos of the warning lights/messages that you can see.
     
  3. MrKauzmo

    MrKauzmo New Member

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  4. MrKauzmo

    MrKauzmo New Member

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    Did you run the engine coolant heat recovery system pump to get air out of the CHRS system?

    Is this done the way you bleed the gas engine coolant? I put the engine in inspection mode and let it run. I opened the 6mm hex screw with tubing back to the radiator to purge the air. The tube looks solid and no more air bubbles. I do not have any check engine lights on. The master warning light comes on when i drive the car for a couple miles. Any links to a mini vci? thanks in advance...
     
  5. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    The coolant heat recovery system might not get bled by the engine water pump and radiator bleed valve. It has its own pump that must be run electrically to bleed that part of the system. There are threads about that, and the easiest way is to use the Mini VCI.
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Mini VCI can be purchased at amazon.com:


    See my posts #22 and #42 in this thread about how to bleed the engine coolant loop (written 8 years ago, before Mini VCI became available):
    Changing engine coolant | Page 2 | PriusChat
     
  7. Augustus88

    Augustus88 Junior Member

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    You can also use a multimeter in 10A current read mode and jump the pins for it. You can probably use a straight wire to do this too.

    See the beginning of this video :
     
  8. MrKauzmo

    MrKauzmo New Member

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    I used this video as a tutorial and followed it closely. I changed the coolant again just to make sure. I bled both systems and I also ran the electric pump for the chrs system. I went ahead and ordered the vci tool. I will update asap when the tool arrives. Thanks for all the community help!
     
  9. MrKauzmo

    MrKauzmo New Member

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    Hello all, I have an update. First of all thanks to all the community help!! After bleeding several more times with the multiple CHRS cycles, it seemed that the red triangle light came on during quick turns and sudden stops. I was able to duplicate this on several occasions after all the coolant bleeding. With the vehicle with this many miles i had to check the motor oil. The oil was super low and after doing a new oil change the light has not come on for approximately 30 miles of driving. This issue has seemed to correct the problem that I was having.
    As far as the mini vci, I was not able to install it yet on my windows 10 machines. I will keep trying to install the mvci device as all the forums have nothing but great things to say about it. Once again thanks for all the community input and prius on!
     
  10. Augustus88

    Augustus88 Junior Member

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    Sounds like the oil pressure was getting low when you turned hard or stopped hard. The oil pickup couldn't get any more oil from the pan since it was sloshing to the sides. Maybe.
     
  11. Senchronize

    Senchronize Junior Member

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    so this was completely unrelated to the coolant change?
     
  12. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Yes. It’s because nobody checks there oil on a G2 especially if dealer oil changed.

    Most elderly G2s are oil eatersits only a matter of how much.Run the car low on oil it becomes a little oil eating monster. Many a motor lost on this site from no oil.

    See so many posts on this site with people seeing the check engine light blinking, They join and post before they even open the hood and check all the fluids.

    But the caveat to this is seeing this after a coolant change it maybe so bubble clogged and air locked the engine is overheating. No temp gauge so you never know. So doing a full coolant change ona g2 without techstream or scan gauge so you can watch the engine temp is looney tunes. Good way to blow the engine.
     
  13. Senchronize

    Senchronize Junior Member

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    I get it, just bought a 2005 with 170000+ couple weeks ago, the previous owner had no oil when I pulled the dipstick. Poured a quart in and drove home then change the oil ASAP. Hasn't seen any consumptions yet and no leak. I guess it's a testament to how good gen 2 prius are even when owners neglect them.
     
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  14. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Its the toughest little motor ever but it needs every bit of oil.

    First thing in the morning before starting the car check it every few days to get a sense of how its doing since its a new car to you. Keep it at the full line at all times. Even if its a tiny bit below the full line top it off. The G2 motor takes exactly 4 quarts with a new filter.

    If its eating oil a little bit make one of the 4 quarts a 10-40 weight that will help. Mine started eating a very small amount of oil i found filling it slightly above the full line really helped stop that. Like 4 1/6 quarts. Plus I used some crazy really high end quality oil all its life. That paid for itself as I sold it and got some good money for it as the engine & trans ran like new. The buyer said this thing runs a like a new car. It did.

    Your on the right site Good Luck!
     
  15. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    If you are going to use words like 'exactly', then the information given should be exact.

    The Gen 2 motor takes exactly 3,9 (US) quarts (3.7 L) with a new filter.

    Unlike Ed, I have found that the oil level can start out at the 'F' mark when I have done the oil change, and very quickly a cup (8 (US) fl ozs) goes somewhere. This looks like ⅙ of the distance (from the 'F' mark) between the 'L' and 'F' marks.

    What I have noticed is that if I top up to 'F' it quickly disappears again. If I leave it, it doesn't much change from that. I generally will just add a cup when it gets ⅓ down. I don't know how to explain it, but it is what I have observed.

    The upshot is that I will 'use' more oil if I get obsessed with keeping it at the 'F' mark rather than just leaving it ⅙ down. If I don't stress about the level and aim for ⅙ down, I use very little oil between 15,000 km (9320 miles) oil change intervals.

    I do agree that 3.9 quart is not a lot so I personally would not let my oil level get anywhere near the low mark, not even near the half-mark. At the 'L' mark, there is only 2.1 quart left so yeah, don't do that. At least we agree on that.

    Just another anecdotal data point make of it what you will.
     
    #15 dolj, May 25, 2022
    Last edited: May 25, 2022
  16. Senchronize

    Senchronize Junior Member

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    Oh thank you, I'm not too concerned since it really didn't go down from my weekly checks, if it ever dips below half I"ll top it off, but since I plan to do 6000mi changes anyway with full synth high quality, I don't think it's going to matter. I changed the transmission/axel oil yesterday and I don't think that has been changed ever, it was grey/black with no hints of red left.