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Discharged 12V battery recovery advice sought

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by archae86, Mar 11, 2014.

  1. archae86

    archae86 Member

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    Our 2006 Prius currently has an 3-year old Optima yellow-top 12V battery as purchased from eLearnaid and installed by me. I just discharged it very deeply, apparently by leaving a door ajar after I adjusted the onboard clock for Daylight Saving Time Saturday evening.

    On next visiting the car this Tuesday morning, my wife observed it to be stone cold dead. She drove to her engagement in my Audi A4, and I investigated.

    Probing the under-hood 12V charging point vs. chassis ground showed about 4V (ouch!!!).

    I have an ancient, cheap Sears 12V battery charger with a switch with which to choose a 2A or a 6A charging rate. As I think it not very well regulated, I decided to start with the switch in the 2A position. The (probably inaccurate) meter promptly showed nearly 6A of charging current, dropping over the next quarter hour to about 2.5A charging current. While still under that charge, the 12V system read about 8V by meter.

    I switched up to the 6A rate. Within a few minutes this had stabilized with the charger claiming just under 8A of charging current, and the 12V system voltage reading 11.74 volts. That has been pretty stable for an hour.

    I seek advice: of my available choices of 6A claimed Sears charger rate, 2A claimed Sears charger rate, or attempting to start the car and driving around letting the onboard charger handle the battery, which seems likely to leave my Optima 12V in the best condition?

    Also, is there any quick and dirty guideline to interpreting the survival or not of the battery? For example, if I disconnect the charger and wait 5 minutes or such, can you suggest an interpretation of the resulting voltage?

    Am I risking explosion by continuing to charge at the indicated 7.5 A rate for at least a few hours more?

    Is it best to leave the trunk open and to lift away the panel above the battery--perhaps open the garage door as well? From an explosion safety point of view.

    My 2002 Audi turns off interior lights after a few minutes after you make this mistake. I was not consciously counting on the Prius to look after my errors that well, but now I know I need to be much more careful. Yes, that was a pretty dumb stunt on my part.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i don't know about charging, but the optima should be able to handle deep discharges with more gusto than the oem.
     
  3. archae86

    archae86 Member

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    In the 50 minutes after I posted that, the voltage with a charging rate now indicated as 6.5A has risen past 12.2V. This has somewhat lowered my fears of a profound abnormality and immediate safety problem. I am still interested in any advice.
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    If you can get it going after charging, drive it for a day or two before checking voltage, with a digital multimeter. At the jump start point is fine. If it's 100% (which is dubious) it'll be reading 12.6 volt or more. 12.5 is borderline, 12.4, best replace.

    With the OEM batteries, they caution to keep charging rate under 4 amp. Not sure about what you've got though. An intelligent, sub-4 amp charger, hooked up at least overnight, with status lights, is a good course.
     
  5. archae86

    archae86 Member

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    Thanks--I decided in response to your post and to my own concerns to switch my dumb charger to the 2A nominal rate. Five minutes later I think things had stabilized, with the charger meter claiming 2.3A, and the voltmeter reading 12.30 V as charging, down from 12.43V at 6.1 A when I changed over. I plan to let it run at this rate overnight, then try to start the car in the morning.
     
  6. Jon Hagen

    Jon Hagen Active Member

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    Best bet is to beg/ borrow/ buy a smart charger designed for sealed AGM batteries. If you use the larger "dumb" charger at the high charge rate for too long, you risk boiling away some of the valve regulated AGM batteries limited amount of electrolyte. Boil too much of that away and the battery is scrap. The other side of that is that the sooner you get that battery back to full charge, the less sulfation damage you will have.
    I have A few Optima red tops and a dozen or more of the Exide Orbital spiral cell AGM batteries that are a clone of the Optima.
    I use a Shumaker SC-8020A smart charger for main charging dutys, The schumaker has both smart charger and desulfator functions and is safe for AGM batteries. I use BatteryMINDer 12117 battery maintainers, which will safetly desulfate / charge and maintain any type battery including Optima yellow top batteries.
    When the snow gets deep in our North Dakota winters, I often park my Prius for several weeks to several months. The Prius has more "always on " electronics than most cars, so will discharge the 12V battery to damaging levels in a couple weeks.
    If my Prius is not to be driven for 2 weeks or more, I plug in the BatteryMINDer 12117 I have in the storage box below the rear floor, to the battery (using the optional direct to the battery ring terminal harness) and leave it connected to an extension cord. The BatteryMINDer's 1.3 amps is enough to power the parasitic drain of the Prius while maintaining the battery at full charge and free of sulfation.
     
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. I understand that the Optima will accept up to 10A charging current without a problem. I therefore suggest that you revert to the 6A position on your charger.
    2. Continue to watch the voltage and current measurements on your charger as the battery continues to accept charge. When the charging current starts to decline from 6A, what is the volts reading at that point?
    3. Does the volts reading remain constant as the charging current declines further? (It should.)
    4. See what the charging voltage and charging current is, at the point that the charger thinks the battery is fully-charged.
    5. Regarding how to assess the battery's condition via voltage measurement, wait at least 8 hours after the battery charger has been disconnected, to measure voltage across the battery. A fully-charged AGM battery should measure 12.9V or better.
    6. Depending upon your results for 4 and 5 above, if they are not satisfactory, one reason may be that you need a 12V charger intended for use with AGM batteries.
     
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  8. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    I think Patrick pretty much covered everything that is needed to be known concerning the OP's question. I cannot or would not add or detract any of the above information and I furthermore agree with what was said in all of the details.

    I could not have worded it better myself.
     
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  9. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Oh, Ron, come on. Not even a little bit....:p

    Having said that, whenever either of you give advice it is terrific. And the couple of times I have ignored it, I paid the price....:oops:

    I've learned my lesson with you two -- and actually about 20 or so others who are fantastic on this board...
     
  10. archae86

    archae86 Member

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    I have reverted from the 2A to the 6A position. Just before reversion, the voltage under charging current was 12.63. Five minutes into the 6A regime, the voltage was 12.97, and the charger meter indicated a 6A current (recall it had been over 8A when I first sent to the high range, and my recollection in charging old standard lead-acid cells is that it slowly declines to about 2A late in the charging phase for them.

    I'll watch it for a while. I currently think I may go back to the 2A range for overnight (about six hours from now).

    Thanks, all.
     
  11. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    archae86,

    Optima Battery 38 Amp/Hr rating

    Theoretically, applying 6 amps for six hours would just about fill up a battery. However batteries tend to waste electricity when they recharge. Since you are seeing that the amperage on the meter is declining it would be logical to think that the charger you are using is a "automatic" charger.

    Unless your voltage while charging rises above 15 volts WHILE charging, I don't think you will overcharge the Optima. Be aware that it is not uncommon to see voltages in the 14 volt range when charging a battery. Remember the Prius normally reads about 13.8 to 14.2 when running the MFD test that a lot of us here on PC use.

    I would leave it on 6A for the duration. I bet it will be fully charged or very close to it by the time the late news comes on tonight. If you switch back over to 2A, it is just going to take longer for the battery to charge.

    Best of luck to you.

    Ron (dorunron)
     
  12. archae86

    archae86 Member

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    Did I mention the charger is ancient? At the price and given the vintage (pre-1988 for sure, maybe about 1983, Sears 28-71827), I don't think there is anything remotely smart in it, though the circuitry used certainly does employ some degree of current limiting at low voltage and taper-off at high voltage. As the 6A selection moved up quickly from 13.26 to 14.50 V while only dropping in current from 5.2 to 3.3A, I monitored it closely watching for the 15V point. I caught it rising through 15.04, at 2.5A indicated, so switched to the "2A" nominal scale. Three minutes later it was sitting at 13.21 and an indicated 1A. I would rather have it sit at 13.8 to 14 V for a couple of hours, but don't have that charger at hand, so my plan for the moment is to leave it on the "2A" setting and monitor it, for the rest of the evening if it does not exceed 15V. I'll probably not leave it on overnight at all, in which case the morning voltage will give me a clue as to where I stand.
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Sounds good. 15V charging voltage (if an accurate reading) is too high. 14.4V is the most I would charge the battery at.

    The good news is that your charging current is declining nicely. Hopefully you'll find that your battery holds the charge and you will be back to status-quo.
     
  14. archae86

    archae86 Member

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    I trust the meter itself (Fluke 115, cross-checked occasionally with a Fluke 117 and a couple of $4 cheapies. The measurement point (+ is right next to the under-hood 12V access point, while - is bolt just a couple of inches from the one I am using for the charger negative connection) clearly has series resistance to the battery in the trunk and back, but at 2.5A I'd hope that not to be a substantial error term. Still it is there, and probably means I did not exceed 15.0V at the battery terminals.

    Even at the 1A (indicated, 2A range) charging current the voltage is rising at a noticeable rate. My new plan is to monitor it closely enough to try to catch the 14.4V point and shut down. If I get a little ambition I'll try to remove enough of my wife's stuff from the rear area to get to the battery and measure the actual terminal voltage to get an approximate reading path resistance given a simultaneous measurement where I have been looking. If I get even more ambitious I'll patch the other Fluke into the charging line so I can have a genuine current rather than the "for indication only" front-panel meter on the charger.
     
  15. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Honestly, I think your battery is "charged" enough at this point for the Prius to take care of it from here. It won't hurt to run it on the 2 amp setting until the late news comes on, which should be another two hours from now if I understand the way the time zone's work.

    You might want to invest in a good smart charger for your Prius. However the charger you have is wonderful for when the voltage is as low as yours was. A lot of the smart charger's today won't start up if the voltage is that low. The work around in a situation like that is to hook up a battery in parallel to the battery needing charged. This fools the charger into thinking that enough voltage is present and will begin to charge the battery. I have used portable start packs to do this and have had no problems working with severely discharged batteries such as your was.

    If you do invest in a charger, get one that has a setting for AGM on it. That will give you the correct charging parameters that are normally used when charging or recharging the battery for the Prius. I use a BatteryMinder 12248 and run it on the 4 amp setting. Lots of folks here on PC recommend the CTEK brand also.

    For reference sake the 15 volt figure I used above would indicate a over charge situation. That is why I said what I said, but I should have been more clear about it. The parameters that the charger I use limits the voltage to 14.6 volts for the AGM type battery, 14.4 for flooded type batteries as well as 14.1 for gel type batteries.

    But it does sound like you old timer battery charger is doing the job. I am aware that it is the old one you mentioned earlier in the string.

    Hope the Optima holds the charge once you get it back up to normal voltage. Best of luck to you!

    Ron (dorunron)
     
  16. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    All sounds good.

    Since you have all these DMM, it sounds like you are an electronics enthusiast. If that is the case, and if you have a lab power supply lying around, please note that works very well as a 12V battery charger.

    Just set the voltage to 14.4V or 14.6V and set the current to 4A or less, and then let the power supply work as a 4A constant current supply which will eventually move to a 14.4V constant voltage supply. Then you don't have to worry about exceeding the voltage and current charging parameters.
     
  17. archae86

    archae86 Member

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    As it happens, my ancient charger on the low "2A" range worked fairly nicely for a four hour top-up run, starting at about an ampere at 13.21 volts, and ending at (actually measured by Fluke) .37 A at 14.4 V. As the 6A range definitely takes the battery voltage higher than I like in the end stage, my future intention is to monitor it closely enough to stop it somewhere in the 13.5 to 14 V range (which was only about 10% of the charging time in this case) and finish on the 2A range which seems to give much more nearly suitable voltage limitation. (none of this part would apply to people with other chargers).

    Twelve hours later, with zero loads beyond the car's background usage, the voltage was down to 12.5, and I started it and took a 20 minute drive. The only surprise in behavior was the lack of surprises. I surmise the car uses non-volatile memory for more things than I might have thought. Start-up was completely normal, garage door opener remembered the code, windows worked, trip meter was remembered, also mpg and miles since previous fuel usage reset, gas tank read one pip down which was probably right for the miles driven...

    My current belief is that the battery is operational and worthy of normal use in the short term. How much I may have subtracted from the service lifetime (it has a little more than three years on it) is conjectural. I intend to make additional simple morning-after voltage measurements fairly frequently for the next few days, and try one of the simple load tests suggested somewhere on this site in a week or two when things are likely to have somewhat stabilized.

    Much thanks to those who provided advice and assistance. Patrick, as it happens I do have a supply, but it is much more modest, probably hobbyist-grade rather than "laboratory". As it in particular lacks adjustable current limits, and has a stated maximum output of 0.5A, I'm afraid it is only useful for small house-hold gel cells (with fervent monitoring), not car batteries.

    In case someone with a similarly discharged battery comes across this thread in the future, I intend to post another follow-up or two, especially if the battery develops clear signs of incapability anytime soon.
     
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  18. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The Optima should not have been harmed by this event as this is what the makers say it was designed to cope with. AGM batteries generally cope well in this situation provided they are charged immediately "as in your case" that they become discharged.

    John (Britprius)
     
  19. Jon Hagen

    Jon Hagen Active Member

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    Good job, your monitoring and adjustments provided the smarts to make an old "dumb" charger recharge that AGM battery without overcharging it.

    For me, the Valve regulated spiral cell AGM batteries made by Optima and Exide Orbital have been so very reliable in starting applications, many working well for 15-20 years. One Front drive loader tractor I built, had a new red top Optima installed at that time, 21 years ago. That battery still starts the tractor's 305 Chevy every day.
    They are so tough and reliable when treated well, yet so easy to destroy if abused.. Connecting a big "dumb" charger to an AGM battery, set the charging rate at 40 amps and walk away from it for half a day is a sure way to dry out and destroy the battery. With a "smart " charger designed to charge an AGM battery, connect it and walk away. The charger will fully recharge the battery without overheating it or drying it out.

    While an unregulated "dumb charger will have the amperage taper off as the battery reaches full charge, often the voltage will rise to the 15-16 volt range if you leave them connected when the battery is fully charged.
     
  20. Mr.Electric

    Mr.Electric Member

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    The crappy little battery in the Prius does not last forever. I have installed a few already. There is not much to do but drive the car and see if the battery is shot or test and replace the battery.
    I carry a compact set of jumper cables in the under cargo compartment just in case. The upshot is the Prius is a great car to leave "running " while waiting for something, the ac and heat works and the engine only runs occasionally.