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First Navigation Speed Lock Override (from the PC shop) in a Prius v: SUCCESS!

Discussion in 'Prius v Audio and Electronics' started by anewhouse, Apr 9, 2012.

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  1. anewhouse

    anewhouse Member

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    I ordered the Speed Lock Override (variety V1) very soon after getting my Prius v3, because my wife is the designated GPS operator while I'm driving. Was pretty disappointed to find out that she couldn't do that on the v - and happy to find out there was a fix available. :)
    When I ordered this, I was informed that I was the first v-owner to order one of these from the Priuschat shop. This is cproaudio's finely-constructed kit, described in detail in this thread - see the very last page for downloadable pdf instructions. His instructions are very detailed and well-illustrated, but only cover 2010 and 2012 standard Prii. He gave me a few suggestions via email for installation on the v, but no guarantees about the wiring or dash removal process. I decided to go for it anyway.
    This thread will share some general notes about my install, and highlight differences I found in my v versus the standard prius described in the instructions. Note that they are NOT intended to be complete installation instructions, but to complement his previously published instructions for the standard Prius.

    Saturday was a gorgeous sunny day - perfect for working on the car! Local v-owner Chazz (PriusChat name Chazz8) came over to work through the installation with me, which was both helpful and fun. I need to start by saying most of the photos here are his - thanks! Also Chazz, feel free to weigh in with any notes I've missed, or any more pics you want to add!

    I'll start with a VERY brief overview of the differences between the instructions and my experiences with my v3, and then go back and give MUCH more detailed notes with lots of pictures.
    BRIEF OVERVIEW OF DIFFERENCES:
    1. Don't mess with the lower center console, which is how the instructions for the standard Prius start. To access the head unit on the v, remove the upper glove box, power button bezel, and upper/center air vent manifold.
    2. There is no "radio bezel" surrounding the head unit, but there are three clips securing the head unit to the dash, in addition to the four 10mm bolts. Once head unit is removed, you can reach down behind the 12V/AUX bezel to remove that. No further dash dis-assembly is required unless you want to route the switch to the left of the steering wheel.
    3. There are some wire color changes:
    a. The power wire going into the cigarette lighter is pale green, rather than solid black. T-Tap the RED wire from the kit power harness into this pale green wire.
    b. The VSS wire is blue, not purple, but it is still connected to pin 17 in the 28-pin harness on the head unit.
    4. To test the bypass before driving, enter the service menu as described, but there is no "Function Check/Settings" command option. I just clicked "Next page"; you may need to click the "MENU" button again first.
    5. The Speed Lock Override works great! :)

    DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF MY INSTALLATION: (with photos and specific notes on differences from the published instruction manual)

    The first step in the instructions for the standard Prius is to remove the center console trim to access the 12V power, and then work your way up to the display/head unit. So that's where we started on the v... And had nothing but hassles. Popped off a few pieces of the lower center console, but basically got stuck when we couldn't find clips/fasteners for some of the larger console trim pieces. Turns out none of that was necessary! So that's the first difference I'll highlight - DON'T MESS WITH THE LOWER CENTER CONSOLE.

    Next, we tried another angle - go in from the side. The top glove box is secured with 8 clips - start by opening the bottom glove box, and prying up underneath the top glove box, to release the lower clips.
    [​IMG]

    We ended up removing both glove boxes, which gave us a good view of the side of the head unit. Progress!
    [​IMG]

    Note - I don't believe it is strictly necessary to remove the lower glove box, but visibility is a little better without it. You just have to remove the little shock-absorber thing on the righthand side of the lower glove box, then squeeze the sides to pull it out of the dash. I recommend emptying it first...

    Next we went at the Park/Power button bezel - it was pretty clear that this had to come off in order to access the head unit. Started at the bottom, just prying out with finger pressure, and it popped right out.
    [​IMG]

    Here's a back view of the Park/Power button bezel - I didn't unplug anything; just rested the whole assembly above the steering wheel and it wasn't in the way.
    [​IMG]

    Now both sides of the head unit were visible, and the only thing left to remove was the air vent manifold above the head unit. I just grasped both lower corners and pulled; this also popped out quite easily.
    [​IMG]

    At this point, the whole head unit was visible, including three plastic clips (two on the right, visible in the next photo, and one on the left).
    [​IMG]

    To remove the head unit, I removed four 10mm bolts (as described in the instructions; same as standard Prius) and then released the three plastic clips (not found in standard Prius). This is pretty clear once you can see the whole head unit. The instructions describe a plastic "radio bezel" that's found on the standard Prius, but this is not present in the v - the clips are part of the head unit.
    [​IMG]

    The instructions say to lay down a towel to protect other car pieces from getting scratched by the head unit - I didn't find this necessary. The angle at which the head unit rests when loose, and the position of the other instruments present underneath it (climate display + controls) just didn't seem like a scratch hazard to me. Sure enough, no towel used, no scratches present. Here's the whole "dis-assembly":
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The only other thing to take apart was the 12V power point (cigarette lighter) - this is on a little panel/bezel with the AUX input, and a blank switch plug (in my package 3). This blank switch plug is apparently the seat heater switch in fancier models. Once the head unit is out, you can see all the way down inside the dash to the back end of the 12V/AUX assembly. Chazz called this space the "Rabbit Hole" - basically there's a bunch of empty space under the head unit, behind the climate controls. Here's a view as if you're looking straight down from the rearview mirror:
    [​IMG]

    Four clips (only two are visible in the pic above) are present on the top edge of the 12V/AUX panel. You can reach down the Rabbit Hole with a long flat-head screwdriver to release those clips. There are four more clips on the bottom edge of this panel, but those will come out easily enough once the top clips are released and you start tilting the panel out. I found that the wire bundle going to the AUX jack was a little awkward and catchy - the panel didn't want to come out until I reached in from behind and wiggled this wire bundle a little bit.
    [​IMG]

    Made an odd discovery at this point - there was a wiring harness plugged into the back of the BLANK switch plug to the left of the cig lighter. Here's a picture as I found it - you can see the shiny blank plug, and a bundle of wires going into the back of it.
    [​IMG]

    And a shot of the plug with the harness "disconnected"
    [​IMG]

    Still don't know what that is for, but since it wasn't connected to anything inside the blank plug, I just left it loose. Strange.

    But moving back to relevant info: now that everything is accessible, the actual mod (wiring change) starts! Fun!

    Started at the top; needed to find the Vehicle Speed Sensor wire in the car. The kit instructions have a good description of the head unit in a 2012 standard Prius (disregard the 2010-2011 section), so that was a good place to start. The wiring harnesses on the back of the head unit in my v3 look just like those pictured in the instructions for the standard 2012. (In this photo, we have already removed the relevant 28-pin harness containing the VSS wire).
    [​IMG]

    HOWEVER - the instructions say to find the PURPLE wire connected to PIN 17. In my v, there was a BLUE wire connected to pin 17, and a purple wire connected to pin 21. What to do?
    [​IMG]

    Felt like an action movie - Cut the blue wire! No, the purple wire! I wanted to go with the purple wire, but Chazz ended up convincing me that the wiring harness is more likely to remain consistent than a wire color, so we cut the blue wire. The spade clips that come with the kit allow you to reconnect the wire anyway, so it wasn't TOO much of a risk. (Turns out Chazz was right - the BLUE wire in pin 17 IS apparently the VSS wire.)
    [​IMG]

    Next step is to get power to the bypass, and the instructions say to get that from the cigarette lighter/12V power point. I removed the harness from the back of the cigarette lighter. As soon as I started working on this, I noticed another difference from the instructions - the two wires connecting to the cig lighter are pale green, and white/black stripe. (The instructions describe a black wire, and a white/black stripe). I assumed the white/black stripe wire would stay consistent, and sure enough, that was the case. I connected the RED wire on the kit power harness to the PALE GREEN wire behind the cig. lighter, and the BLACK wire from the kit harness to the white/black stripe wire in the car. Used the T-Tap connecters provided in the kit; no problems there.
    [​IMG]

    I chose to put the bypass kit switch in the blank spot to the left of the cig. lighter. I wanted my passenger to have access to this switch, so this location made the most sense. (If you want to route the switch elsewhere, you may have to remove more dash pieces.)
    [​IMG]

    Then it's just a matter of connecting all the harness plugs from the kit. There is plenty of room behind the 12V/AUX panel for the wiring etc.
    [​IMG]

    With everything plugged in, we could move on to the "Test before driving" step. The instructions say to put the car in ACC-ON, hold down the SETUP button on the head unit, and click your parking lights on and off four times. This worked fine, and I got a setup screen on the head unit:
    [​IMG]

    However, the next instruction step says to select "Function Check/Settings" then "Vehicle Signal". These options were not available to me. I just clicked Next Page (at the bottom of the previous photo), and it took me to the speed screen, but you may have to click MENU again to access this.
    [​IMG]

    Turned on the magic switch, and VOILA!
    [​IMG]

    This gave me good confidence that everything was connected and functioning correctly, so we re-installed the head unit and assembled most of the dash, including the 12V/AUX panel with the new switch.
    [​IMG]

    Took it for a test drive, and it worked great! Chazz has a video if you really need proof... ;)

    I think this whole process took us about 2-1/2 hours, but we probably wasted at least 45 minutes messing with the lower center console that didn't need to come off in the first place.
    I hope these notes and photos will make installation easier for anyone else who wants to install the PriusChat Navigation Speed Lock Override. Let me know if you have any questions, if you want better-quality photos, or different photos.
    Cheers,
    Andy
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  2. da-baron

    da-baron New Member

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    excellent write up, thanks.
  3. tvromero

    tvromero Junior Member

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    Did you order the "V' kit or the "V3"? Did you get any description of the V3 kit?

    Thanks,
    Tim
  4. anewhouse

    anewhouse Member

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    Good question - I neglected to mention that. I used the simplest/cheapest version (V1). I'll edit my post accordingly.
    I picked this one because I really don't see the need for a timer - in fact, I think a timer could be quite inconvenient if it takes a while for the passenger to enter an address, and the GPS suddenly reverts back to "normal" mode in the middle of that process. In my mind, turning the switch back on will be like hitting "GO" or something after entering an address; just part of the process. That's also why I chose to put the switch in the center - so the passenger can reach it.
    Andy
  5. Chazz8

    Chazz8 Gadget Lover

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    I just wanted to tell everybody how much fun I had watching and supporting Andy installing the bypass switch. I was in awe of his confidence to grab panels and skillfully pull them off.

    I spent time last night writing at length about the VSS wire. How we ceremoniously cut the wire, had trouble stripping it (I used my teeth), and the difficulty twisting the copper strands and crimping it to the provided connector. The picture in the post shows one end of the VSS wire stripped and the other end crimped to the connector. Then my iPad lost my write up. So, you get this short and sweet version.

    Here is a link to our successful test drive:
    speed override switch test - YouTube
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  6. cproaudio

    cproaudio Speedlock Overrider

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    I noticed that you've used the switch extension harness in this picture.
    [​IMG]
    If you're installing the switch next to the override, you can plug the switch right into the override. There's no need to use the switch extension harness. Also, if VSS extension harness can also be used as power extension harness.
  7. tanasit

    tanasit Member

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    Will this override enable the DVD movie play in motion too?
    Thanks,
  8. anewhouse

    anewhouse Member

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    Check cproaudio's thread linked at the beginning of the OP - I believe you need a different kit than the one I bought, possibly including a parking brake override in addition to the VSS override.
    Andy
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  9. tanasit

    tanasit Member

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    I followed Andy instructions to install my V1V SLO and it went smoothly until I had to use the 2 t-taps with the cigarette lighter wires. Since the wires are so small, I had a tough time pressing the wires into the metal slot (small wire has very thin insulator so there's not enough thickness for the other t-tap half to pres the wire into the slot). After pushing and pushing to no avail, I decided to use a 1 inch long bigger dummy wire placed over the small wire and press it home. Then I just remove the dummy wire. This step alone took me a good 20 minute! Then I looked at the 2 wires (I think they are pink and red and are bigger than the purple VSS wires) and found no further instruction. I has no choice but to assemble everything back for now until I know exactly where to connect the 2 wires.
    I want to put the switch next to the panel on the left where there are switches for fog light, dimmer, parking assist and the blank spot. I do not know how to remove the panel (yet) and so far I only tried to remove only that panel, but I may have to remove the other surrounded it. Anyone know how, kindly let me know.
    Thanks,
    Tanasit

    PS. I'd like to thanks Andy for providing such a details pictures and instructions.
  10. 12get12

    12get12 Junior Member

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    What a well-written DIY instruction with nice, detailed pictures. I nominate Andy (anewhouse) as our official DIY tech writer. This saved me time on guessing how to remove the head unit. Good Job Sir.
  11. tanasit

    tanasit Member

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    Ditto from me.
    If I didn't have trouble with the t-taps, it'd have been less than 40 minutes top with Andy's instruction. :thumb::thumb:

    BTW, once the head unit is out, with my V+ATP there is another control box about the size of 2 cigarette boxes underneath so you can not look down to see the connectors behind the cigarette lighter.
  12. tanasit

    tanasit Member

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    To remove the left panel with switches:
    1. pull up the sill cover.
    2. remove the kick panel by first remove the plastic thumb screw located on the front left floor. Then remove the 10 mm screw of the switch panel root on the upright door frame and pull the kick panel out and UP.
    3. pull the switch panel straight and out.

    Note: when reassemble the panels, make sure to push the switch panel all the way to the left and hold it while you are screwing in the 10 mm bolt. This is important because the kick panel has 2 slots that must be mated with the blue rubber catches (one on the door sill and the other is on the left hand upright wall behind the kick panel once installed). It the 2 slots are fully inserted, then you will see the kick panel ajar!
  13. anewhouse

    anewhouse Member

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    Ha! Thanks very much!
    If anyone wants to send me free samples of neat new gadgets, I'd be happy to install them, take pictures, and write up how-to articles. ;)
    But I think I pretty much have my v set up how I want it - GPS is usable by the passenger, backup beep is disabled, rubber floor mats are in, hubcaps are gone, and all my tools and toys fit neatly in the compartments under the rear deck. (Previous vehicle was a Scion xD - great little car, but not exactly brimming with storage space...)

    Actually, I do have one item that's still on my wishlist for my v: DRLs/fog lights. I've seen a few threads, but they seem to be replacements for those on the v5, rather than new installations for the v2/v3. Alternatively, scangauge codes to turn off the headlight warning beep would be nice - I'd prefer to just leave the headlights on all the time, and they do turn themselves off after you exit the vehicle, but the reminder beep is annoying. I did rig a homebrew DRL solution on my xD, but if there is something a little easier and more factory-looking available for the v, I'd be interested.

    Anyway, I'm very glad my write-up has been helpful - don't forget to thank Chazz8 too - his photography, suggestions, and moral support were essential to my success. :) This weekend's project is an early oil change (maybe filter-only w/ partial change) and installing Mike500's box beam stiffener. Should be fun! :nod:
    Andy
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  14. tanasit

    tanasit Member

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  15. russcarver

    russcarver Junior Member

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    I installed my override switch here (in the left panel), and I don't think these steps are necessary. All you really have to do is to pry (with your fingers) the panel with switches out - starting at the top near the steering wheel. I'll post my detailed experience (with pictures) soon.
  16. russcarver

    russcarver Junior Member

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    I am finally able to report success installing the v1v override in my Prius v5 with ATP. I received the package this week. I noticed it was without instructions, so I came back here and found this great review! That, in addition to the original instructions (for a non-prius v - found at http://priuschat.com/attachments/2010-up-prius-hb-navigation-speedlock-override-installation-guide-3-30rev-pdf.36294/) made everything go smoothly!

    I encountered several "gotchas" that I thought I'd pass along, plus my experience with the parking switch override (of the v1v and v3v only). I decided to go with the v1v as the timer did not interest me for two reasons:

    1) If my passenger is watching a DVD, we don't want the switch to be on a timer.
    2) If they are entering an address, it usually takes longer than 30 seconds.

    I'm a perfectionist and an engineer (software) and so my installation (due to a learning curve of things/details not posted, plus doing the parking brake override and putting my switch in the blank to the left of the steering wheel where the dimmer switch is) took 4 hours start-to-finish. I would encourage you to read all the way through this review, the top review by 'anewhouse', and the original instructions (re-posted at the top of my review for quick reference).

    The first thing to note, is that I did not remove the lower glove box and I had no problem seeing or interacting with everything I needed. The upper glovebox removal went smoothly, as did the power switch cover, top vent removal, and unbolting the head unit.

    After removing the head unit, I noticed the "double cigarette" looking thing below it that I can only assume is for the ATP package. In order to make getting to the clips for the DC/USB 'power' panel easier, I decided to remove both. The head unit comes out by unplugging all the plugs. Here is a picture of the back of the head unit. Notice, that one "plug receptacle" has no plug going into it (shown with red arrow below). This is nice to know if you take them all out and wonder where the missing one is when you go to plug them all back in (like I did - thankfully I had pictures to double check!).

    Back of Head Unit.jpg

    Here is a picture of the left side of the ATP unit (seen by looking down after removing the head unit). I've pointed out one of the two 10mm bolts that will need to be removed.

    ATP Box Left Side Looking Down.jpg

    And here is the right side of the ATP unit (again looking down). I've pointed out the 2nd of the two bolts to remove.

    ATP Box Right Side Looking Down.jpg

    After removing the bolts, you can flip the ATP unit up to the right. Here's what it looks like underneath. The arrow shows the ATP unit.

    Flipping up ATP box (to the right) after unbolting.jpg

    Here is a pic of the four connection plugs going into the right side of the ATP unit. Remove them after unbolting it.

    ATP Box (After removal) Right Side Wires.jpg

    And here's what it looks like down there after the ATP unit has been removed. I've pointed out the location of the four upper clips for the power panel. One of them (2nd from left) is under the black cable.
    Looking down after removing head unit and ATP box.jpg


    I found that (after much trial and error), that the easiest way to get the power panel out (and the ATP unit!) is to sit on the center console (no, it won't break! And I weigh 165 lbs.). To remove the power panel, press down in the center of each clip (at a point close to the power panel) with a long, thin flat-head screwdriver. While doing this, simultaneously pry out the corresponding part along the top edge of the power panel with a similar, small screwdriver. To do this, I found the location to place my screwdriver on the clip and held it there while I moved my focus to the outside of the power panel with the other screwdriver. This is so that I could focus on not scratching the power panel. Having two screwdrivers really helps to pry out the power panel and, if done correctly, won't scratch anything.

    Here is the power panel pulled out. You can see the mangling of the clips I did in my many trial-and-error attemps to get the power panel out. Rest assured, though, that it went back in fine (and flush!) with no problems and was quite secure afterward. I have placed arrows to show two of the four white clips that must be removed in order to detach the wiring from the DC socket.

    Power panel removed.jpg

    Next, I did all the wire cutting, stripping and capping. This was very straightforward and needs no pics for the educated (which I assume you are if you're reading this!). Some things to note:

    1) The wires to cut are VERY short. So be sure to cut them strategically. I stripped off about 1/2" for use in attaching the caps/connectors/couplers. I did lose one connector down the "hole". It's deep enough that you'll not want to even bother fishing for it, so be VERY careful in crimping these on (and when replacing the bolts). You may want to have some spare connectors on hand.

    2) The wires are also VERY thin. Much thinner than the connector collar diameter. The connectors are made for the harness wires (which are thicker). So you'll need a VERY strong grip to flatten the collar on the wire. Be absolutely sure the connectors won't pull off when done. You don't want them rattling apart while driving.

    3) There are only 3 wires actually attached to the 16-pin plug (red, white and yellow). The one to cut for the parking break is the yellow one. It is in pin #6 in the L111 plug.

    Parking brake wire.jpg

    Next, I did the taps for the DC socket wires. When you disconnect the wires from the socket, you'll have to unclip the four white clips keeping the wires on the socket. I used a small, flat-head screwdriver again. Be very gentle so as to not break the clips. The taps went on with no hassle or "extra" wires (as one poster mentioned above - to make it "thicker").

    The next set of steps involve taking out the panel of switches that are to the left of the steering wheel so that the switch can be mounted in the remaining blank (the right of the four switch spots). One poster above "tanasit" gave some instructions. However, they involve removing the door sill cover (the long strip of plastic between the painted part of the car and the carpeted part) as well as the kick panel in front of the sill. I did all that (and can post pics & "gotchas" upon request) but found it ultimately unnecessary. Instead, simply grasp the right side of the panel (just left of the steering wheel) and pull out and down (mostly out) as seen below.

    Prying off left switches.jpg

    You need only to pull out the clips along the top edge. Here is what it looks like once removed.

    Left switches out.jpg

    You can pull it further open if you pull out the clips along the left edge of the panel. Next, remove the "blank" switch cover (the black one shown furthest right) by squeezing the clips on the top and bottom and taking it out.

    Next, I routed the harness wiring from the head unit "hole" over to the switches to left of the steering wheel. Below is where I started threading it out the hole.

    Routing harness out of head unit area.jpg

    Then, I routed it under the steering wheel (I checked to make sure it would not be impinged by the tilt/telescoping function of the steering function no matter what positition it was in).

    Routing harness under steering wheel.jpg

    And lastly, I routed it into the switch area. The arrow shows the end plug of the harness that plugs into the other plug at the end of the switch (shown already installed here).

    Routing harness through to left switches.jpg

    And here is a closeup. The arrow shows the black cabling of the harness.

    Closeup behind left switches.jpg

    Lastly, here is the finished switch installation.

    Switch installed.jpg

    Everything else went just as in 'anewhouse's experience with the exeption that while in the 'setup screen' (that shows SPEED, PKB and REV), my speed showed 0-1 Km/h and PKB shows 'ON' - both with the installed switch turned on.

    My road test was successful as well. The DVD could be seen while driving as well as doing anything that was previously disabled while driving.

    Cheers!

    --Russ

    Attached Files:

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  17. anewhouse

    anewhouse Member

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    Great writeup and pictures! Thanks for sharing!
    Andy
  18. russcarver

    russcarver Junior Member

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    Thanks! I also included the pics for removing the door sill and kick panel.

    --Russ
  19. russcarver

    russcarver Junior Member

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    Model:
    Five
    I would also note that the even with the override switch on, the map still seems to keep a near real-time location of my car. Perhaps it's getting it from GPS instead of the speed sensor....

    --Russ
  20. zxcvb4531

    zxcvb4531 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2014
    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Francisco,ca
    Your Vehicle Year:
    2012 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Five
    thanks for pictures
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