I'm glad that I did it, today, and didn't wait until 10,000 miles. It was pretty dirty for 3k. I've posted my setup with Race Ramps, held the door down with a length of 10 gauge solid insulated copper wire hooked to the bottom of the door and the front of the plastic bottom cover. I used a screw on funnel that came with a Wedco drain container that I got over 10 years, ago from Ace Hardware. I don't use the drain pan container any more. That funnel screws to an anti-freeze or windshield washer fluid bottle, and has ribs that keep the drain plug from falling into the bottle. Unscrew the funnel, cap it, and I'm done. The funnel even work for the oil filter cap with minimal spillage. The filter cartridge drained nearly all the oil into the USED Go Jo hand cleaner bottle. I used Mobil 1 and installed my Custom neodymium rare earth magnet drain plug.
Keep in mind that, if the additives in the oil are working properly, the oil is going to turn dark very quickly. That's the additives at work. You can't tell the condition of the oil by its color.
I already know that. Clean and NEW oil with the full additive package is always better than OLD oil. It's cheap insurance. I just wanted to get the metal "flash" and assembly lune out of the oil.
Toyota synthetic actually has better stats than Mobil 1 and starts out darker than dyne or Mobil. It is specifically designed for vehicles with Atkinson cycle engines. Take a look at the Toyota video on that....you may want to rethink Mobil 1.
Mobil 1 has a long track record of reliable service. I've used it for nearly 35 years. Mobil has done many many more lab test over the years than Toyota. Toyota has a self-serving interst in promoting their own oil. As long as Mobil 1 0W20 is approved for use in my Prius, I'll keep on using it. Competition is good.
They might NOT even have the cap wrench to take off and to install the composite oil filter housing cap.
Yeah, over the past 50 years, I've seen a lot of that "wipe clean" service, where the part was NOT replaced.
I did, but no oil change at 3k. I will take advantage of the 12 months service oil change as well as the 24 months.
Only after HELL freezes over! Last time I used the Jiffyheads, they left oily rags on the manifold of my 4Runner, about a mile from the Jiffy shop I had smoke pouring out from under the hood! I quickly "U" turned right back to the Jiffyheads, pulled in and let them know in no uncertain terms,....gets the rags out, if anything is burnt, your paying for repairs. Two weeks later I got a coupon for a free oil change, I lightly burned the edges of the letter, mailed it back to them, with a note letting them know this is what happened last time, there will be NO next time!!!
Got a youtube link "HOW TO" change oil in PRIUS V5 ??----2500 mile is going to be my first one. Took several cars past 200K---88 Suburban 252k---1999 LHS 203k--97 Cummins Dodge 381K all on Mobil One. Thanks Two
Changed the oil today on our v, at 3310 miles. No signs of any "stuff" or flakes, and didn't expect any. I did find, as I found on our 2010 when we got it 3 years ago, that the dipstick is rough around the tip and I can conceive it chiseling into the dipstick tube as you slide it down the curved portion. You can feel that. So as I did with the 2010, I buffed that tip, and the feel is smooth now. I'd imagine this doesn't amount to much, and any particles would quickly embed themselves in babbit or get attracted to your magnetic drain plug.
