Front brake pad change

Yes, it is a good idea to disconnect the 12V battery to make sure that the brake actuator pump doesn't power up while you are working on the brakes. This also prevents the skid control ECU from logging DTC.

Yes, the brake caliper is of traditional design.

 

The rear pads are just as easy provided you again disconnect the battery. The parking brake can be adjusted through the drum from the wheel side while you have the wheels off.

John (Britprius)

 

Nah, stay away from copper grease - you'll regret later.

In this post

parking brake, rear pads

I have documented what product are needed to service the brakes.


Here: parking brake, rear pads I have documented why using copper grease on caliper pins isn't suitable as this isn't high temperature resistant product (as well as it contains copper which doesn't help either).

 

I need to do my front pads at 166,000, Hobbit has a write up-- Brake service-- that includes pulling relays to make sure the system depressurizes and does not go through a self-test. Question is, can I just disconnect the 12v battery or do I need to pull the relays?

Thanks,

Dan

 

Disconnecting the battery will do fine, then leave for 2 minutes before starting work.

John (Britprius)

 

Thank you!

 

Or disconnect the battery and press brake pedal for 5 sec.

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Assuming copper grease is similar to molybdenum anti-seize compound, I'd agree you shouldn't be using it on caliper pins, but JayW didn't say that was how he was using it. There is special grease for caliper pins, name brand names escape me. I've used moly anti-seize compound on the faying surfaces between pads and shims and calipers without issue, for years.

 

I actually meant to say that copper shouldn't be used on the pins (where they need to freely work with rubber).

Copper might be ok for the pad edges or where the pad meet with shim.

 

Moly anti-seize is actually recommended, by Honda, for all their brake applications. It's outlined in Service Manuals. Basically it's spec'd at all points of contact between back of pad, shim and caliper.

(Not sure, but I'm thinking this "copper" grease is a molybdenum anti-seize compound, called copper due to the color. Mine's metallic grey, a can I've had since the '80's. There's also blue. In fact, Honda replacement pads come with a small pouch of the stuff.)

 

dug up this older post as I am now going to replace front pads on the 07 prius.

besides disconnecting the 12 volt battery, do I have to pull any relays out? and when done with the brake job, do I have to pump the brakes before connecting the battery?

thanks very much

 

No need for relays, see Britprius' post #8 above. No need to pump brakes, the brake actuator does this for you when powered up.

 

When you have replaced the brake pads you must bed them in if you do not want a nasty surprise in an emergency.
Normal braking is done with the regen braking system, the ordinary brakes only being used below 7 mph. This means after changing the pads the brakes feel just as they did before changing the pads. If they are not bedded in the brakes will not work efficiently in an emergency stop when regen braking is over ridden.
To bed the brakes in, choose a quiet stretch of road, accelerate to 40mph, (no more) and brake firmly in neutral. Keep doing this until the brakes feel normal. Job done.

John (Britprius)

 

Thanks nh70 and Britprius.
I will be sure to bed the brakes, hope I can find a quiet street around here though.
I bought these pads, Monroe CX822 Ceramic Premium Brake Pad Set anything good or bad about these that I should know about?
again thanks

 

There is nothing wrong with the Monroe pads. However using different pads in the Prius to improve the braking has little to no effect under most conditions as most of the raking is done by regen.
There is some advantage in mountain conditions where long downhill runs fully charge the HV battery and normal brakes take over the job of keeping the car at a reasonable speed.
Another reason to use different pads is in damp (such as the UK) or salty climates where I find more abrasive pads help keep the discs (rotors) from rusting.

John (Britprius)

 

Thanks John.

I had bought them last year when I had 100k miles now I have 150k and can notice braking difference so I will finally do the job. I know it is time for shocks and struts too but that seems hard or appears hard